DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Guys

Having this evening pulled the rear seat squabs out of my recently acquired 'no rust' Californian car (and yes, Nick did warn me), I have found evidence of previously standing water and the onset of the dreaded tin worm.

Having bravely (or is that stupidly), prodded the area with a screwdriver, I'm encouraged that it appears to still be sound metal, if not very pretty on the surface.

I always thought rust = remove and replace, but as the car is sound everywhere else - bar small sections up by the rear windscreen and the engine bulkhead that I will have replaced during autumn '05 - is it worthwhile giving the squab sections a liberal coating of POR-15, or am I just wasting my time?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Ian

Hammerite will do the same job for much less money

their products are very good miggs and I had fun with their de greaser which is now pulled from the shevels as it was too good. Thank god I still got 4 ltrs of it..

I have used Por 15 tank repair kit and was very impressed would like to look at their chassis paint. But have to say the same hammerite just as good and cheaper and in lots of different colours.

Satin black inside the car eg trunk area etc looks rather nice....

Use the what I call milk stuff it's a rust treat ment before you paint turns the rust black very very good. I find it better than that Jenolite stuff.

mark

POR15 is superb stuff, much better than hammershite. Just don't get the stuff on your skin, it takes days of scrubbing to remove it

The 'metal ready' is really good too

http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread ... ight=POR15

I have used Por 15 for the interior FloorPan of my car. I used the Metal ready stuff first after I had sanded the pan down. The laid on the Por15 to the Pan and Beam. Looks very nice indeed.



to



I can say that its good stuff, 2 years on no signs of rust re-appearing. I have used Hammerrite on a set of Bug steel wheels many moons ago and after 10 months you can se the treated rust comming back.

Perhaps the fact the pan is on the inside of the car and the wheels were always exposed to the elements the reason rust came back.

James / Dyno

Thanks for your responses - I was just about to go with Hammerite but the VW forum review has changed my mind.

Dyno - your piccies remind me of my teenage years and my first car!!! How those Beetle's rust so badly (well, mine did).

I think I'll be spending some of my hard earned with Frosts.

Cheers
Ian

Ian Donkin wrote:Dyno

Dyno - your piccies remind me of my teenage years and my first car!!! How those Beetle's rust so badly (well, mine did).

I think I'll be spending some of my hard earned with Frosts.

Cheers
Ian

Yeah funny that, that Bug in the picture is my very first car and I basically learned to drive in that car. I still own it and am hoping to do something useful with it in the future.

Good Luck..

nick-moss wrote:Hammerite will do the same job for much less money

I have to say that I agree with Nick. Hammerite seems pretty good to me, especially as there is an undercoat which they do for sealing pitted areas before painting the "real" hammerite on. Has protected my floorpan a treat, with the surface rusted areas not re-appearing, and a rock hard finish.

When you take all of the hammerite products , it looks to me very much like there is an equivalent to each POR15 treatment, only cheaper.

BUT, I havent tried POR15. Sounds like its the business too... Maybe I'll give it a go sometime just to see...