DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

I need some advise on painting please.

Shell will be dipped and etch-primed and all metal work requiring repair done (not much to do). Then it will get a full respray.

Chosen colour for respray is it's original 1973 colour of Grand Prix White (code 908). I want the paint to look period. So ...

1/ What type of paint should be used? Cellulose or modern two pack. I have had the suggestion to use modern two pack but only do the colour coat and not the laquer as I don't want it over shiney (ie looking too modern). Good idea? Or are there any other types that would be better?

2/ Should I rule out water based straight away or is it worth considering?

3/ I assume the car would have originally been painted using Glasurit paint. Anybody use this? Is it still available? If so is it worth it?

4/ What should I put on the bottom of the car? I am tempted not to put rubbery type undercoat on but just paint with the same as the rest of car. Car will not need ultimate protection as it is a summer only dry weather car.

5/ Any advice on keeping the car as light as possible regarding paint (a bit OTT I know) ? Is one type lighter than another etc?

6/ How do I make sure I get a good colour match to original Grand Prix White and not some "joe blogs who works at the paint mixers" interpretation?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Ian.

Ian

See my post over on your other thread. I hope you haven't mixed the paint yet. GP white not a 73 colour for an E. That is if you want to keep things original. I'm sure the only colours were light ivory (131) and the rarer ivory (132) in 73. White only used on the RS in 73. The exact paint formulas are still available.
Regards
Mike

Ian
The underside should be the same colour as the upper body in 73 if I'm not mistaken.
Regards
Mike

Hi Ian,

ian_uk wrote: Chosen colour for respray is it's original 1973 colour of Grand Prix White (code 908). I want the paint to look period. So ...

As per Mike's comments - of course paint it whatever colour you want - it's your car But original is always best and GP White was ISTR only an RS colour - haven't got my reference books here with me as I'm travelling at the moment.

ian_uk wrote: 1/ What type of paint should be used? Cellulose or modern two pack. I have had the suggestion to use modern two pack but only do the colour coat and not the laquer as I don't want it over shiney (ie looking too modern). Good idea? Or are there any other types that would be better?

Celly is getting hard (impossible) to obtain and while the lustre is always lovely, modern technology is much harder and much easier to work with.

ian_uk wrote: 2/ Should I rule out water based straight away or is it worth considering?

Depends if the formulation you want is available in water coloured not sure on this

ian_uk wrote: 3/ I assume the car would have originally been painted using Glasurit paint. Anybody use this? Is it still available? If so is it worth it?

Your paint code plaque on the door shut should give you the full code - within the code is the manufactuter ID - but yes, Glasurit was the main paint used (can't remember the other name, something like Lesinil - like I said, haven't got my books with me )

Glasurit is still very much available and there's excellent support from them - they have a superb colour formulation finder online at:

http://www.glasurit.com/COLOR/COLOR-ONLINE/

Enter the colour and year, it'll give you the formulation - BE WARNED - it took many many samples for me to be happy with the colour so take your time. They're also now doing a 'vintage' clear coat which looks more like 30 year old paint technology - more money but worth it

ian_uk wrote: 5/ Any advice on keeping the car as light as possible regarding paint (a bit OTT I know) ? Is one type lighter than another etc?

Just put less on seriously - the difference might be 5kg's - go for a finish that will last - better that than trying to save a couple of kg's.

ian_uk wrote: 6/ How do I make sure I get a good colour match to original Grand Prix White and not some "joe blogs who works at the paint mixers" interpretation?

Any painter who has a Glasurity paint mix system - or a Glasurit supplier - will have the formulations. As I said above, test sheet, another test sheet and repeat until you're happy The colour mix codes are very good indeed.

HTH

P

Hi P
Still on your travels?

Lesonal is the name you so nearly got from memory

Ian
As P says all this info is on your paint tag

Regards
Mike

210/pmjt

Yes you are right about GPW. My mistake putting the assumed colour on this post when I don't know what it is yet as per other thread. Ignore the colour and thanks for the help so far on painting which is really what I am after on this thread.

Ian.

Ian

Light ivory is such a wonderful colour and gives you that period look better than gp white in my opinion. Do a search on Andy's (lightweight 911) very original T and you find nice pics of light ivory.

And yet gpwhite looks so good on an RS....weird
Regards
Mike

pmjt wrote: ...Your paint code plaque on the door shut should give you the full code - within the code is the manufactuter ID ...

pmjt.

LOL, no chance of that being there ... this car has had a very varied life and is currently yellow even though the V5 says white.

Potted history ... this is no where near a concours car however it has a very solid shell and good engine (rebuilt) and mechanicals (rebuilt) and would make a nice period road / occasional sprint car. It's been enjoyed for couple of years on track so now its time to do a decent paint job on it.

The answers you have given regarding paint are really useful, especially the glarurit information. As I intent to keep the car once it's done I would like to do it the right way.

Thanks a lot.

Ian.

I painted my frogeye sprite with cellulose. No way would I use it again. Compared with modern formulations it's high maintenance and less durable (but much easier for DIY!).

210bhp wrote:Still on your travels?

Hi Mike - yes - still in Singapore - not wanting to come home except a) the wife's there (bless) and b) I haven't driven a Porka for weeks!!! Had to get the order right in case she logs in and checks

210bhp wrote:Lesonal is the name you so nearly got from memory

You're a gent

P

Hi Ian,

ian_uk wrote:

pmjt wrote: ...Your paint code plaque on the door shut should give you the full code - within the code is the manufactuter ID ...

LOL, no chance of that being there ... this car has had a very varied life and is currently yellow even though the V5 says white.

Ah - yup - know the problem Where was the car originally supplied? If it's a UK car write to Porsche in Reading, they'll tell you the original 'birth' colour - if it's American, write to the PCA - much cheaper and generally more accurate

Sod the V5 - they're better fiction than Harry Potter

ian_uk wrote: Potted history ... this is no where near a concours car however it has a very solid shell and good engine (rebuilt) and mechanicals (rebuilt) and would make a nice period road / occasional sprint car. It's been enjoyed for couple of years on track so now its time to do a decent paint job on it.

The answers you have given regarding paint are really useful, especially the glarurit information. As I intent to keep the car once it's done I would like to do it the right way.

concours ain't my thing - driving is - but a car in it's original form (colour, trim, spec) will generally be a better long term bet than otherwise. Worth investing the £60 with Porsche to find out how she was born, then restoring as close to that as your wallet can manage

ian_uk wrote:Thanks a lot.

You're welcome - that's what DDK is about

Philip

Shell will be dipped and etch-primed

How are you removong the previous paint and sealer. If you are using a company in the midlands for this process you should be aware of potential problems with distortion of the shell. This subject has been covered here recently.

Nick.

Thanks for the heads up.

Yes the car will be going to the same place in Dudley to be done. However I am 100% confident and relaxed about it. Chris the chap who is going to be doing my rebuild (GCR in Leicester - I believe you had a long phone conversation with him about the 993RS you just bought) has used them for a long time with no problems.

The reason I am happy is a) the car is only being stripped there and not e-coated b) Chris is very precise with them whenever they do a shell on how it should be supported and most importantly how it should be lifted and c) the car currently has a full steel cage which will be left in for the process and should guarantee no distortion.

The car will also be jigged afterwards.

Ian.

A 73 had body colour in the engine bay and also under the bonnet, but this is more of a dust coat. I am pretty sure that under the bonnet was also painted after the wings were on.

Alan.UK