DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Glad to hear these methods work, as for the wonder wheels I’ve just not bought any yet!

Advice is unless you are particularly dedicated to the DIY cause, just buy the classicretrofit fuse box

Getting there, but it’s slow work. I’ve modified the new boxes internally to replicate the bridging elements under the original. Won’t be sorry to see the back of the original fuses though!

My indicators might even work when it’s raining after all this!

Uhg!
You are welcome to that. Pay your lad to do it?
A soldering stand is the very best investment in that game, only realised that 3 weeks ago while doing the model R/C planes.
Does ANYONE like car electrics?

911hillclimber wrote: Does ANYONE like car electrics?

Yes - I do !

I find it very satisfying to track down/rectify problems - plus, one of the first things I tend to do on any 'old' car I buy is to rip out any non-original wiring (invariably bodged with those horrible blue 'Scothbloc' connectors).

It's totally logical ...

.

It's totally logical ...

That leaves me out then!
Never used those wire cutting blocks, but the local tow bar man does...

Looking slightly better now. Both fuse boxes done, just need some more heat shrink of the right size to cover the spades.

New terminals on the positives, and the earth point, and also integrating the wiring for the heated screen and amp. There are two un-used fuses, rear screen and fog lights, so they are being repurposed.

Need to get a positive battery terminal with some extra terminals to make it neat.

Lightweight_911 wrote:

911hillclimber wrote: Does ANYONE like car electrics?

Yes - I do !

I find it very satisfying to track down/rectify problems - plus, one of the first things I tend to do on any 'old' car I buy is to rip out any non-original wiring (invariably bodged with those horrible blue 'Scothbloc' connectors).

It's totally logical ...

.

I must admit I do too. Son of a sparky, rewired a beach buggy at 19 and it all kind of worked. Took 6kg of wiring out of the Boxster without a single issue or warning light. I am not very good at creating a loom that looks factory, but generally manage to get everything working.

Worst thing for me is soldering a connector on the realising I forgot to put the heat shrink on first. Aargh. I use circlip pliers to stretch the heat shrink over the connector before shrinking again if you are interested

Been there with shrink sleeves, never thought of stretching them!
Top Tip! I've wired 2 hot rods from scratch and everything worked, no smoke and reliable but boring.

The Lola was even simpler.

Removing butchery must be a pain.
Gary's gone quiet, so he must be enjoying himself.

Oh yes. This is peak joy!


Currently trying to integrate the heated screen wiring using the rear window switch as the switched live to a relay.
Just so much fun

Out with the old. In with the new.

Someone (probably me) has pushed a drill bit through the loom at some point, luckily it’s not caught fire as two wires were almost through and other with damaged insulation. Makes unwrapping all that mucky tape worthwhile!
Easy repair with it unwrapped and out of the car.




You can see why some of my lights were dodgy from this! Corrosion everywhere.

Once, with my Spyder, I wired the horn so it would only worked when you had your foot on the brake!

I have a funny electrical problem with my lights just now, which I discovered months ago which I really should look at, switching on the lights fries a connector between two point in my fuse box in a couple of second and this connector is made from stainless steel bike spokes

But hey. it's the black magic

The Brendan guide to fuses, need to add a bicycle spoke in there somewhere

Gary71 wrote:The Brendan guide to fuses, need to add a bicycle spoke in there somewhere

Laughing cow cheese, brilliant!

Spat my gin out

Love the ‘audio visual alert’ of the 350A fuse


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