DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Spent money on a load of 6AN fittings and PTFE-lined fuel pipe. I love those shiny black-anodised AN fittings... Also been offered free use of large well-fitted barn/workshop complete with two-pillar lift, tools, wood-burner - and two resident Model A Ford hot rods just 10 minutes from home. Hooray!

Came to the conclusion that the engine on the 914 isn't right. I decided to check the oil but going for a drive and it was below the min line. Refilled and took for a 20 mins drive and unfortunately back below the min line. The smell of burning oil had been guiding me this way and I was in denial.

Mrs B wants to see the back of it. I think, don't really know, that the car with a working engine has more value (including the rebuild cost) than a selling it now? I would also like to do another trip or two in it.

I'm going chatting to our local place to get an idea of costs. If it was the 356, which is inside the garage, I would attempt to drop the engine and do some of the easy work myself. Dropping the engines in the 914 isn't as straightforward as Keith has stated in the past.

Not great timing or news.

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A leak-down test would be a good idea. No need to drop it. To see if it is leaking past the rings or valves. Does it have good oil pressure?

There is this VW Type 4 engine on FB apparently rebuilt internals............you could then work on yours at your leisure?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... 21d5ed30d3

Bruce M wrote:A leak-down test would be a good idea. No need to drop it. To see if it is leaking past the rings or valves. Does it have good oil pressure?

I have an oil pressure guide on it. The pressure starts well, 60 and 30/40, during the drive but then starts to drop.

I think a leak down test would be good but I'm think unfortunately it just needs to come apart.

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Nine One One wrote:There is this VW Type 4 engine on FB apparently rebuilt internals............you could then work on yours at your leisure?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... 21d5ed30d3

My engine was modified for performance. I think it's better to get it working again. Than dropping an exchange in

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For what its worth (Facebook engine), a CA code means van engine. Originally 1.7 low compression pistons with external oil filler & fuel pump. Although the missing fan bolts are the first thing i saw…

The value question is a good one - but you have to consider your time and hassle. Nobody's buying a 914 who isn't already an enthusiast and they'll be going in with their eyes wide open, knowing that there are a few things that could bite them on the arse, and being prepared for that. Someone buying a 914 right now is going to accept that some of their winter is going to be spent fannying around with stuff in the hope of having a reliable toy come springtime. If I were in the market for a 914 right now, the idea of dropping the motor when I got it home and refreshing it at my own pace over the next few months would be appealing.

I agree with Bruce Neil - check what you can in the car and get a sense of what you are dealing with so you can decide whether to repair or sell honestly.

Dropping the engine and box in one go is easy - there is lots of space and not very much to disconnect really. A local VW place would be a good starting point for a rebuild and you can easily lift it into a car to get it there once the ancillaries are off. It would be a nice little project to keep you from being bored over the winter….


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That's true - although I found the front engine mounts a right pain to keep a spanner on whilst undoing them. I'd probably find them much easier now with my Li-ion impact gun...

My 914 rally car has a type 4 rebuilt as a race engine by Greatworth to 2056 with external oil cooler etc,
Goes like a rocket!!
C

Went for a drive and unfortunately we had to be jump started after jet washing the car. Helped by a very nice couple from near Stuttgart. Wearing a Daytona probably worth about the same as a 356 in today's silly mkts.

Ive changed the battery. I should of done this before but I thought I could get a winter out of the old battery. I've started labelling replaceable items so I know when I've put them up in.

However, I'm not convinced it was entirely the battery as it was turning the engine. I think the car said why did you dare to jet wash me. Then the very naughty girl started perfectly a few practice times in the garage when we got home. I also tested the phone charger and all is good but I've knocked something and the red charge warning lights and dash indicators aren't coming on. That's a job for another day.

My battery tested said

Old battery
Cca550
V 6.3
State of health 60%
Charge 50% really should of been higher since it was on a trickle charge

New battery
Cca 1275 meant to be 815 new. So double
v 6.1
Soh 100%
Charge 10%

I know the alternator is working as there is 6.4-6.7v at the alternator terminals when the car was running. So higher than the 6.1v of the battery.

Door latch working so the door card will go back on soon

More testing coming as we have our biggest trip yet planned for next year. I still can't believe this one is possible. Time already booked off work. More news when we have booked a few things.


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Nothing air cooled for me - I meant to put the standard exhaust back on but was distracted. After accumulating parts, I decided to start the race car suspension rebuild (in short, the off at Loton helped me identify the power / slicks combo has completely nadgered my suspension which stands like Bambi, so I have been collecting parts for a few months



Before I start I need to move the rear shock inboard adjusters to the boot after have to cover them with coke bottles after a scrutineer said he wasn’t happy with pressurised containers in the cockpit pit. I couldn’t apply enough force to undo the dry break connectors so had to make a tool, and succeeded with prototype 2




It has been a while since I did any car work but under any time pressure so really enjoyed the afternoon bobbing around making stuff


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