DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Took all the main and idle jets out to clean. Checked the valve gaps. No need to adjust. Replaced one valve gasket. Changed the oil. While it was draining I decided to use 2 rods for garage door handles (which came out of the 914). Short drive and all running well.

Just a night test drive and I think she is ready for the big trip.

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A 60 mile round trip to the Classic Motor Hub in the ST. Many motor bikes present but not many visiting cars. The sales showroom is always interesting with some nicely finished and expensive cars. The ST will be wondering what is happening to it as it has been out 3 times in a week.

Classic Motor Hub is our destination for Saturday 19th July afternoon spin during DDK Meet Edition 2 2025.
One of my “happy places “ great coffee, amazing cars to look at and a great little shop that always takes my money!
What’s not to like?
If you haven’t signed up yet on the events page, then you should- 33 cars booked already!
See you there?
C

Untitled by CARMANWAITINGINTHESKY, on Flickr

Untitled by CARMANWAITINGINTHESKY, on Flickr

Untitled by CARMANWAITINGINTHESKY, on Flickr

Untitled by CARMANWAITINGINTHESKY, on Flickr

Flatted and polished all the lights on the Boxster - always a bit of a nail biter when they go all cloudy and swirly - a bit of a mission to bring them back to life.

What did you use please?
My 2009/86K mile 987.2 has some marking that would, I think, be removed with some TLC.
Thought of simply using one of the available headlamp restoring kits.

2000, 3000, 5000, 7000 then 10000 grit sandpaper discs on a drill pad with plenty of water. Then various swirl removers and polishing compounds on a rotary polisher and then ceramic coated them. I have failed in the past to clear coat headlights after all that - just never works for me so just make do with ceramic coating every few months.

I have used one of the kits before - the 3M one which worked quite well.

OK, thank you for that.
The damage to the surface is where I stick the beam deflectors when we go to Europe.

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Started my 911's engine for the first time in 5 months - I don't use a trickle charger on any of my cars (never have done) - & it burst into life on the 3rd twist of the key & settled down to an even idle after a couple of minutes ...


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Snap!

ith the first event in about 4 week's time finally got the fresh AVON slicks on the car today.
Not as simple as it might seem, but all done in 2 hours inc the trip to BMTR who are about 18 miles away from me.
BMTR are the only outlet for the race tyres, but I bought my 'fresh' set 18 months ago when it became true that the factory was closing down.

Decided to buy set while I could.

I use crossply tyres (as used in the day) on this 1978 car and they need to go on the rims in a particular way which is not too obvious, so took the lot to BMTR as the local tyre fitter may have issues.

The positioning is as the sketch below. There is no 'Outer' marking on these tyres, but each has a moulding date etc and that individual mark is shown as a big black dot on the sketch.



So, all done back onto the car and all is well, the balance weights are all aluminium taped over and painted black and the odd touch up done on the rims.

Tomorrow will be down to the ground and set the tyre pressures, 13 psi Fr and 15 psi Rr and see what has happened to the front chassis ride height.

These new tyres are smaller diameter than the old one (which are no longer available) so the front springs need a few turns on the spring platforms to restore the height to 3.5" where Sean at McClurg Motorsport set the car nearly 15 years ago!.

Two things left to do, fuel and start the engine to temperature and a really good clean.
Then the car is ready, not too sure about the pilot.





Hard to see how these massive brakes get inside a 13" rim.

Having slept on it decided to re-set the front ride height with these smaller tyres.

Due to the goeometry of the coil-overs just one turn on the spring platforms raised the leading edge of the tub from 2.75" to 3.25" so the toe will not be changed much bu the car looks right to my eye too.

First runs will tell in April.

This morning I was installing a new WUR 033, rebuild from Bosch in Germany
The pending idle cold was gone and everything seems to work perfectly.
Just need to do some test drive when the spring becomes more mature and all the gravel is gone from the road. Hopefully the small twitches around 1600-1900 rpm is gone




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The annual MOT test endowed me a couple of tasks needing completion this weekend, if I am to have an air-cooled Porsche to drive this Spring. The brake lights aren't red enough - showing white light to the rear, and a pair of new drop links to the rear. In theory only 5 minutes is needed for a quick spray over with red tint to restore the sun-faded lenses. But as with every 5 minute job on an old car, I earmarked the entire weekend. Not being satisfied with half measures, after a good clean up, I coated the insides of the lenses with UV protection, masked off and coated the red brake light section. I also had some mirror finish which I used to restore the chrome surrounds, and next day I decided the red wasn't rich enough so they got a second coat. A good clean of the light units, some lithium grease around the rubber seals to soften them up a bit. A couple of the threads needed cleaning out with a tap and finally all back together.





Not having a lift, I told the garage I'd be dropping the car back with the new drop links for them to fit. But with the weather being relatively nice I found a couple of hours to lie in the muck on the drive underneath the car. It turned out to be quite involved. Whoever tightened up the bolts when these were fitted certainly wasn't one for risking things coming loose. Thankfully I too have a beast of an impact driver which was called into action for the undoing thereof. It turns out when your suspension is lowered, the geometry isn't quite right and the bolts go through the drop links at a bit of an angle and this made refitting a bit challenging but with a pair of ramps, two jacks and a tyre lever I got there in the end. While I was at it I noticed it was perfect timing to scrape off some of the flaking underseal so I'll be going back in soon to things a good wire brush down and coat with something protective.

If you are not happy with the red Rob you can always fit some red led bulbs.

On the ARBs, generally you have to use a combination of jacks and stands because you find twist tension with one corner in the air, and the suspension hanging off them with both in the air. Sounds obvious but I hadn’t really clicked it until I needed to undo my rear ARB at a wet Prescott whilst putting the wets on. It’s a right pain in the arse!


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Dinitrol 4941 in a spray can is a good thing to spray the crusty bits with once you have got the worst off with a wire brush.