DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Finally after 6 years on the road I got round to sorting out the items needed to fit the spare wheel.



The wheel nuts I use with the Torq Thrusts are a 22mm shanked nut but I use the standard 19mm radius seat nuts with the aluminium space saver style spare. I found that the Landrover Heyco 22mm brace matches the BMW Heyco 19mm so got these welded these together to create a wheel brace that suited me.

Also removed the location nipple from the lightweight Boxter scissor jack and fitted a rubber pad in its place so now it can be used in any suitable location.

That scissor jack looks nice - was that standard on boxters then?

sladey wrote: ↑Sun Aug 25, 2024 11:18 am That scissor jack looks nice - was that standard on boxters then?

I think so - later 911 too.

There is 2 types though - one with a slot and one with a nipple on the top. The nipple just hammers out and you can then fit a pad. Loads on Ebay.

Brill thanks

That does look neat, certainly better than the heavy (and crap) one I’ve got in the car. I’ll try not to bid against you Sladey

What a day! Must of taken me 2 hours to get the remaining driveshaft bolts of. The internet suggested they were triple star so I got a set from Halfords. Unfortunately, the internet was wrong. My bolts are torx T40. Unfortunately, that didn't help. In the end I hammered in a 6mm Allen key and was able to take 2 off quite quickly. The last one needed the triple star hammered into it did the trick. Once I figured out what to do it only took 5 mins. I just had to make lots of mistakes on the way. Which included twisting an extension bar for my socket set.

Next I decided to cheat remove the rear caliper. I decided not to remove the pads. Detached the handbrake cable, unclipped the hard hose, loosen the outer pad, undid the caliper bolts and removed.

The screws holding the disc on were stuck too but I have a hammer screw turned and they came off without an issue.

Then a tried to remove the hub. First using a hub hammer then some bolts but it didn't move a mm.

At which point I messaged Keith @ks and he said to get the drive shaft out first . Lots of hard bashes with a hammer and it separated from the hub. Then by jacking the trailing arm high and moving the other end towards the gearbox it came out!

I tried to drive out the hub but no luck. I will have another go tomorrow but this hub is not showing an indication of moving.

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I was helping my son try to get his new 650 Honda working in the morning. Broken fuel pump relay was the first problem.

So it the afternoon before I got to work on the 914 again. First I started to look at the gearbox side UJ. It took me 15 mins to get the clip off! Then another 10 mins to work off the UJ. Strange because it's meant to be looser so can be removed by hand. Looks like it needs replacing because of wear but I'm struggling to find a source of UJ with 33 teeth.

Here is a very good video and how to rebuild the UJs

https://youtu.be/F-5Xpug52Qw?si=Ii6-6rq7gI9XD31d

Then I when to removing the hub. I used a combination of M12 bolts and nuts to slowly move the hub. Then the hub hammer did the rest.

I was so excited when the bearing from the freezer went in with only finger pressure but it was shorted lived. The inner race separated when I was cleaning the frozen off it. Perhaps I didn't wait long enough but the hub was reluctant to go into the bearing. I tried to tap it in but should of used an installer like in the picture. I've decided to get another bearing. Doesn't anyone have a suggestion other than Design911? Unfortunately, the car is now on an axle stand. Exactly the situation I was looking to avoid.

Here is a very good guide. I should of read completely before guessing.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticl ... rsion2.htm



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That’s annoying!

Have you tried your local OPC? I would imagine D911 are just selling a genuine part, so can probably be bettered by going direct. My OPC are super helpful and always give me PCGB discount and some of the prices are really reasonable


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Changed my wheels and tidied these up at the same time. Attempted to change my wing mirrors to after market Durant style but the supplied bolts are too long so need to work out the best way around this


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Went to a wet Silverstone day last weekend, and when we got there found the one corner of the fabric sunroof had ruptured, the corner fastening stud had rusted out of the rear panel. Bit of a mess and very unsightly...

So, set to finding out what had really happened and sorting a repair.

Removed the 5 nuts from the rear rail though holes in the roof lining and of course, all but the center one was right in-line with the roll bar hoop, so access is super tight.
After some nimble finger work got ahr fabric panel off the car.
It is a Britax MGB GT unit cut down to a much sorter length to suit he car. I installed this in 1999 replacing the evil flat aftermarket glass tilt roof that the previous owner had fitted using a can opener.

The one corner that broke free was badly rusted, the stud had simply rusted through.

After some careful peeling of the fabtic outer in that corner, I welded in a fresh corner panel suitably shaped to suit the original, added filler to flatten it all and all glued back using some fresh EVOSTIK.

My trusty LIDI 'dremmel' linished the welds flat first, great tool for delicate operations like this was turning out to be.

Fresh silicon sealant around the rear locations and back on with the roof rear panel and those 5 studs.

Got to the last one and crossed the threads (M5) which meant removing it all and running a die down that stud which was annoying.
Can't remember when I last crossed a thread, senior moment i guess.

All back together, driver's seat back in and it started to rain!

Just-in-Time indeed.

Just going back to Neil's 914 hub situation which we chatted about this morning as it happens.

Should that bearing be in 2 pieces? Looks like it should and the drive shaft outer end passes through the whole sandwich of parts and when torqued I guess to a silly figure all is well?

Would that not put a lot of axial load on the ball race?

I'm not familiar with the 914 rear wheel bearing but it seems odd that this bearing would have so much loading on assembly.

Alternative to Design911 is Type911, but i feel Wayne is dead right, many indie parts suppliers just buy parts off OPC discounted and sell them on with as big a margin as they dare to apply.

My AOS for my 987.2 Boxster was £20 cheaper from my local OPC than any indie, and then I had the 10% PCGB discount.

Last week as part of the Fowey Royal Regatta, participated in a classic car show and drive through the town. The guy in front obviously thought 'classic' included a modern Lexus...

https://youtu.be/Am3oiiDZsHc?si=8AkSUZBqqGl-69si

That must have been fun on the old china clay line. Did you have the Red Arrows at the Regatta? They usually display, and then are driven down later for a long evening in the Yacht Club!

JW

No Red Arrows this year - I think the change in laws about overflying spectator areas since the Shoreham disaster has put paid to that...

KS wrote: ↑Tue Aug 27, 2024 6:31 pm No Red Arrows this year - I think the change in laws about overflying spectator areas since the Shoreham disaster has put paid to that...

Someone was saying on FB the other day that it is now 8 years since the Red Arrows appeared there. When they used to fly up the river, and you were on the hillside overlooking, you could almost see inside the cockpit.................