DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Given the multiplicity of variables involved, making it watertight may take a while, Gary

Doubt it was water tight when new.

It certainly wasn’t when I bought it

Yes, I know I said that there wouldn’t be an update for a while, but given that my odometer is not working and that it is almost certainly the delrin cog that has succumbed, I need a replacement. If I order it tomorrow, then it might be here for when I return from sailing. Anyway, as there are quite a few options, I first needed to remove said cog and count what teeth remained. Nothing to do with being soooo close to 20k views (you lot must have been bored over the years).

So, without further ado ….. the answer is 20x30, but if you want more, then fill yer boots and read on (or just look at the pictures) ….


Speedo was removed by the age-old method of removing the clock, and then pushing the speedo from behind. The clock is normally the easiest (well, less hard anyway) gauge to remove, but as they have not long been re-installed, mine came out most agreeably.

They look like this



I did make a note of how I thought that I had wired it, then checked prior to disconnection. It is quite simple, but only when you remember, so I made a note and stuck it to the steering wheel, just in case.

Then you remove the bezel – easier said than done. I tried a collection of different sized screw-drivers, knives and dental picks. In the end, tapping the bezel down onto the speedo and also across to one side helped. I hoped to get the bezel off from the bottom of the speedo, but the biggest gap was of course at the top, so that’s where I started. My smallest ‘normal’ screwdriver was the winner in the end. My watchmaker type screwdrivers were too flimsy and the knives just the wrong shape.


Once I had got a start, it was just a case of gently, gently teasing the bezel away from the speedo, inserting a blade under the bezel and encouraging it off.




Quick record shot of mileage before I played.




To remove the internals, first undo the 4 screws on the rear



Out comes the internals and the guilty party is revealed. The yellowed cog is well past it’s sell-by date, with teeth missing by the scroll drive gear (and more fell off as I handled it).



Removing the speedo needle was a case of brave pants on and turn (force ?) the needle past the minimum stop while pulling, then rotate past its maximum stop (while pulling) and repeat until the needle fell off. Quickly check to make sure that the needle had come off without breaking the drive needle from the instrument. Phew. Then 2 screws on the front face, and we’re getting closer.



That gives access to 4 more screws which are undone to remove the gearset


Noting where the metal plate lives





There are 3 sets of gears, with the first being removed by driving / drifting / pushing out the pin


The other 2 cogs are retained by tiny circlips, which I can surprisingly report, came off without breaking and without launching themselves across the room



Record shot of their orientation



Et voila, we have the offending cog removed



With my aged eyesight, I needed bright light and a magnifying glass to count the teeth. Having counted the remaining outer teeth 3 times and decided that there were originally 20, I noticed that they always only have 20. Hey ho. The inner teeth counted at 30, but I did notice on Design911’s website (other websites are available to check these things, but it was the first relevant hit in my Google search), a handy check – my adjacent cog has 40 teeth, so it would need a 20x30 cog, so good confirmation.


I told you that at the start, so thank you if you actually read the ramblings that followed. I've a little house painting tomorrow and then I'm off to sailing, so see you all in a jiffy.

Back from sailing, so once more into the garage, dear friends.

Speedo cog arrived while I was away, so first fit new cog and replace other two sets


Then, ‘assembly is just the reverse of dismantling’ or some such thing, and we have a reassembled speedo.


And refitted


As I don’t have a square wave generator to supply a test signal, I will only know whether it all works once I go for a drive, so here’s hoping ….



A few days later (well a week and a bit, but who’s counting – I’ve been away to visit SWMBO’s friends, as I don’t have many of my own )
I’ve finally pressed the button and bought a car lift, with delivery maybe at the end of this week. As getting that into the garage will take some time, and I’ve not fitted the garage door seals or finished the tiles around the uprights, and SWMBO has loads of chores around the house (painting,, tidying the garden, etc,etc), it may be a while until I really get stuck into the targa roof, so here’s where we are up to …


I rebuilt / reassembled the targa frame (thought that I had photos of that, but it appears not). Fitting it to the car revealed a bit of an issue on the OSF corner.


This is the other side


A bit of puzzling ensued, resulting in the realisation that the new targa pin I fitted was in fact a different length to the original


I swapped out the new one and as a temporary measure, refitted the original with a goodly wrap of PTFE tape to make up for the lack of threads. Much better.
[



As reference shots (I hope)
All reinforcement plates are fitted with the majority of the flat area facing towards the outer cover.
The centre reinforcement plate is fitted with the sloping indent towards the rear of the car


The middle reinforcement plates are fitted with the offset towards the front, and with the bend going outwards


That makes more sense looking at the photos. Whether it will make any sense next time I need to know - who knows.


Anyway, reinforcement plates now fitted, gaps adjusted to be the same and all taped up.


It was cold and I needed a coffee, so that was it for today. Next, I need to fit the mohair strips across the front and rear edges - brave pants time methinks. Watch this space (but don't hold your breath, it may be a while ......)

What lifts? I'm contemplating the same possibility myself at the moment. Don't have much headroom though.

Duplicate post removed

I looked at low height 2 post, but they need a lot of room around them and I can’t find any of the movable variety in stock anywhere.
I was tempted by the Quickjacks, especially the new higher versions which lift to 600mm, but was worried by their sizing - what appears to fit the 911 is too small for my X1. Their main benefit for me was that they could be hung on the wall when not in use.

So, I’ve gone scissor lift. I did consider the full height versions, but don’t see me moving, so I only need about 800-900mm lift and the (cheaper) mid-rise versions lift 1000mm.

I’ve ordered the Automotech AS-7532B. https://www.automotechservices.co.uk/pr ... ssor-lift/

I'll be very interested to see how you get on with those Peter, look ideal.
1000mm lift is very good. to get a wheel to that height will make a huge difference to working on the car esp getting engines out.

911hillclimber wrote:I'll be very interested to see how you get on with those Peter, look ideal.
1000mm lift is very good. to get a wheel to that height will make a huge difference to working on the car esp getting engines out.

There you go, forget getting rid of your Skoda tow car for something newer (when this one just does fine) buy a set of these ramps at £2k and you still have £23k left over for anything else, considering you will be parting with £25k to upgrade to something that is not going to improve anything, apart from having a newer registration on your drive.

What's installation like? Do they just sit on the floor, bolt to pre-existing concrete, or do they need ballast installing in the ground?

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They bolt to the floor but I believe that is more to stop them slipping forward when you drive onto them rather than to stop them tipping over.

for interest, I have one of these. Not having to roll around on a cold dusty floor anymore under axle stands means I actually enjoy working the car again.

https://strongmanlifts.co.uk/product/cl ... ssor-lift/

Most garage floors were no made to carry these loads I think?

If you bolt these to the floor of the garage and it is a bit 'thin' not sure how I would feel under there.

The foot print of the bases though are good and large, so am I worried about nothing.

anything to work smarter and not harder is a bonus.

Collapsed height of 110mm is quite high.

911hillclimber wrote:Most garage floors were no made to carry these loads I think?

If you bolt these to the floor of the garage and it is a bit 'thin' not sure how I would feel under there.

The foot print of the bases though are good and large, so am I worried about nothing.

anything to work smarter and not harder is a bonus.

Collapsed height of 110mm is quite high.

Scissor lifts like the ones quoted above spread the load over a reasonably large area so floor loading is usually not an issue.

2 post lifts like this
https://twinbusch.co.uk/product_info.ph ... cts_id=155

require a pad of 8 inches