DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

I do most of my work on decent weather days pushed out on driveway.
Plenty of ventilation. And PPE of course.

Hello,

Maybe some experienced bodywork guys can help answer the question?
I’ve started to strip the driver sill. It had quite a layer of filler on top but underneath is good metal?
Only a small hole near to edge of the door. And a little corrosion to the front of the top of sill.

Why would you fill the area if it’s good metal underneath?
I have however noticed a joint welded near the where the sill joins to the door jam which holds the
Catch?

Also signs of lead aground the edge of the door shut. Thanks for the help






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The top of that sill looks to be in great condition. If the surface was rough it could be filled just to make it easy to smooth out. Maybe it had a new sill and the door gap was a few mm too wide so they added a few mm to the top of the sill. Alternatively, perhaps it's a coating of stone chip to prevent future corrosion. You need to strip the last bit behind the weld - that's where mine had gone because of the water that runs down the door jamb and I'd expect is the spot you're most likely to find holed (although it looks like it will be fine).

Added another of the front sill area showing drainage hole and some minor surface corrosion.
I’m unsure if original Porsche sill or factory fitting?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The front partition panel seems the worth part of the car so far. I do however have a dansk replacement and also an original front clip.

The clip area which runs along the front edge is the rotten part. And one hole on the left side of picture.

Because this part holds the vin / chassis plate and the Uk BSAU48 sign, would it be worth saving?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

leedurrant73 wrote:Added another of the front sill area showing drainage hole and some minor surface corrosion.
I’m unsure if original Porsche sill or factory fitting?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like there is a skim of filler there.(at lock post joint)factory, it would have been lead if anything, plus those welds on the flange dont look like factory welds.That area can be tricky to even out, and filler used simply to
make repair visually acceptable at some time in past.Or as we say "gobbed up to hid a multitude of sins" Remove filler to good metal.You will find your answer.it has to get to bare steel.

leedurrant73 wrote:The front partition panel seems the worth part of the car so far. I do however have a dansk replacement and also an original front clip.

The clip area which runs along the front edge is the rotten part. And one hole on the left side of picture.

Because this part holds the vin / chassis plate and the Uk BSAU48 sign, would it be worth saving?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No real advantage.chop it out,if it cant be saved.

leedurrant73 wrote:Because this part holds the vin / chassis plate and the Uk BSAU48 sign, would it be worth saving?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure about the BSAU sign but the vin plate can be drilled out and riveted back on. I assume you're aware the more important VIN number stamping is just below the smuggler's box?

Yes I am thanks. I just wondered if the partition panel was worth saving.
I’m sure I will find other rust issues but the car isn’t to bad to be honest.

Nice VIN. I would save what can be saved and make minimal replacements but that's a personal preference.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

If I had my time again with my car I’d take off the whole front panel and the corners near the battery boxes. I burnt so much time fiddling with very thin bits of metal it just wasn’t worth it.

I’d recommend stripping the whole area including the vertical joins down the front corners, inside and out, to bare clean metal before making a decision.

Just looked again at the photo, that hole on the RHS will extend into the complete join to the partition by the time you’ve routed it all out.

This was my bad attempt at the repair of the same corner, lots of layers and complexity when you really get into it.

Your right Gary, it’s probably just as cheap replacing the whole panel instead of spending all the time cutting it out.

Thanks

Looks like I’ve found my first poor repair to the joint at the bottom of the panel, no rot but just a poor joint. The top of the panel is in very good condition.

Do they sell a small repair panel for the bottom curved area at the bottom that would tidy up the area ?





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you clean it back more so we can see what’s good metal? Wire brush on an angle grinder will have that back to metal in seconds.

Is there still a lump of filler in the curve?

Thanks for the help.

Yes filler still there, maybe 1 to 2 mm thick. Looks to be lead filled near on inside seem.
Maybe under the filler? Will remove the filler tomorrow.