DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

911hillclimber wrote:Great to see you have returned to this little 911!

Set the front arms to level, and the orientation of the drop links will reveal themselves as the bolts will only line up one way. The M6 bolts should go into position without great force, I think you have the one in the pic correct.
Dying to see it on the wheels.

Thank you, I reckon I’ve got them the right way up then - and I too am dying to get her back on the ground - I was hoping my trailing arms were going to be done for the weekend but alas my ‘friend with press’ has had a busy week.

Trailing arms came back to me this morning from my mate who pressed the bearings and hubs in for me. Really must invest in a press.

Anyway, I've been dying to get them back on so I could see where I was at with my wheel offsets and get the barrels/lips ordered accordingly.

Fortunately for me, this time luck was on my side and the rears are perfect - this is where I want them to sit so now starts some head scratching to work out tyre sizes - always the part I dread.





I'm glad the rear rails were clearanced though - that would have been tight to say the least.

Side note - really must have a sweep up.

After staring at my one fixed wheel for a bit and having a tidy up it was time for a think on the next plan of attack. As I'm making life difficult for myself by fitting Wilwood callipers I thought I better check they'll clear the inside of the barrel. The answer thankfully is just about so with the remaining trailing arm on the bench I will set about designing a mounting bracket for them.

I've never delved into the quagmire of CAD from a design point of view - sure I use it at work in 2D form just writing nonsense on drawings but not in a 3D design way so I'm way out of my comfort zone here. If theres anyone more talented than me at CAD and can make my calliper sit here

but without my hand there to aid it then crack on.

Get the proper CAD out.

Cardboard Aided Engineering!

Once you worked out the concept then you can measure and draw.

Are the calipers axial or radial mount?

Totally agree with Gary.
Done all that on my race car without any computer, let alone 3D cad.
Make sure your measurements are with the calliper with its bleed nipple at the top!
I think those Willwoods are radial mounted which makes it easier.

Okay cool, thanks - I'll crack out the cardboard.

They are radial mount, and these callipers are equipped with 4 bleed nipples for some reason.

What did you make your brackets from? I'd be interested to know the rest of the process you went through.

Makes the design non-handed then.
These are the ones I did on my race car:

Spot on cheers.

Tonights visit to the garage mostly involved fitting the nearside front suspension etc so I won't bore you with duplicate pictures of what happened there.

I also test fitted the gearbox as I needed to know what obstacles might arise when converting to hydraulic clutch. Now I'm not familiar with the cable setup at all and have yet to devour the info given by the exploded drawings but my gearbox came with the pivoting ummmm 'thing' on the side but it was bent so in my experiment cut it in half. My initial thinking is to weld one half of it in the required position and mount the slave cylinder as per the picture. Like I said, not being familiar with how it mates with the clutch fork I'm currently in early stages of rumination but its a start.

I might be wrong for your set up, but that pivoting thing is part of the throttle linkage

Gary71 wrote:I might be wrong for your set up, but that pivoting thing is part of the throttle linkage

Oh is it?

Damn, okay thanks for the heads up. This is where buying a complete car would have helped me out a bit.

Good job my pivoting thing was already toast otherwise I'd have cut up a decent part for nowt.

On further investigation - Gary was right. Back to the drawing board with that particular situation.

Whilst I mull over the clutch conundrum I thought I'd do some plumbing, so with the wife out at oktoberfest I set about it. This was my first foray into pipe flaring so was expecting scenes akin to scrapheap challenge but it wasn't too bad and after a couple of goes I got it sussed. I ran a hard line up through the tunnel to a 3 way union mounted behind the pedal box - from there will run a flexible hose to the rear master cylinder and the spare port will become home for the M10 brake light switch.

Good result; please show us more of that flaring tool. Thanks, John