DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Morning Rich,
Really like the idea of bonding an aluminium L section from underneath the door skin to form an up-stand, maybe use a couple of rivets to add a little additional mechanical strength. I will have a closer look at the mini trim section as well. Thinking allowed maybe I could weld a letter box out of L section and weather gasket section. I could pre-assemble all the trim sections remove then bond the letter box into place from underneath. I guess will be down to space available and how flat the door section is to bond to.

Like you will probably struggle on without removing the outer door skin, agree it would be the best way.

Here’s something for you to look at Greg. When l was doing mine this guy had another concept. Absolutely love this idea, just a shame it doesn’t seal against the windscreen. Although I think it could be done. Might give you an idea or two...

https://youtu.be/RTG6MnkPVUs

Rich,

That is a really cool process, shame SAS get such a bad slating over on the SOC. I think I could design/ make a spring hinge inner door cap. The cap would need to be a moulding rather timber. No idea how they got the motor to pull down at the back before the front? Maybe there is a US car which does it.

Had a look at the mini trims looks like they are 825 mm long, so ok, and only £50 ish.

Ok so I got bored with the engine, rolling roads and thought I never liked the arch profile, similar gaps larger front, smaller back to the original 356 but with the wider arches just did not look correct. So sliced and re positioned so gaps at front and back are the same. Also going to round the bottom front edge under more.

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Taped the outside and glassed from the inside, just waiting until its dry to remove the clamps

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. This makes me laugh Greg. The thing is when you build a car, anything that your not happy with you have the skill set you put right.

Well its taken about 15 hours to get the arch much closer to a better shape. Still needs some more work at the front

I used a large block of polystyrene to make the shape at the bottom of the leading edge, rather than take a mould I used two layers of roving matt and then chopstrand on the inside.

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The arch gap to tyre is the same at front and back now which proportionally looks correct, just want to tidied the leading edge return flange a little,

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Now to tackle the other side

That’s nice, arch to wheel relationships are so important

Thanks for the positive comments Gary and Rich

So I have re-sculptured both front arches and the contour looks much better

Before
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After
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They appear reasonably symmetrical for a hand built car
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The plan for the back of the rear arches is to quite radically curve the profile inwards and end at a lower position. Plan to use the same process

I have started to apply the same re-sculpting process to the bottom of the rear arches. At the polystyrene block stage, which I have started to sand a shape. Happy with rear view but need to change the arch as viewed from the side a little. I am working both side at the same time to get them symmetrical. The next stage is to get the profile right and apply some filler and more sanding. Ready for the mould.

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I will need to get the whole car out of the garage to get a full side view. I am finding that I can take some basic measurements but "by eye" seems to be the best.

Managed to find a break in the rain to push the car out and take some updates:

The rear arches curve in with a better profile which is equal on both side

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The next project is to form a dash top ready for upholstery and close the inner arches where the shock tower break through.

Work just seems to be getting in the way of fun!
I have spent a long time on small improvements. The largest improvement is to rebuild and shape the inner wings where I removed them to accommodate the larger shock towers. I removed the fuel cell and then accidentally left the tap on and drained the contents onto the floor! Removed the wiring harness down both sides to get access. The pictures below don't look much but certainly quite a few hours involved in preparing a moulding / fibreglass and then Flowcoat to black.

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Eventually these will be covered by a panel carpet so wont be seen.

Sounds about right Greg. The small bits do take all the time and sometimes they are not seen but that’s taking pride in your work in my eyes.

I’ve enjoyed your journey with this and Hope to get to see it in the flesh in the New Year

Well huge leap backwards. The engine is out, on a pallet and off to Mike Bainbridge for repair/ tune. Will have to wait for the prognosis from Mike over the coming days, hopefully just the valve stem seals but braced for other issues. Its a 42 year old engine with 80K miles so kinda to be expected.

That’s a blow. What’s up with it?

Bugger