DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Further to this thread, about dissolving my Mazak lid catch part: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=50226&p=427396&hilit=mazak#p427396

... I just bought this new one from Canford Classics. Was £21.36 incl. delivery.

My Dura-Blocks are taking an age to arrive, and I wanted to get the roof sanded, so this evening I found a length of narrow MDF skirting board that had just the right flexibility to bend with the curve of the roof. Because the roof curves with varying radii across it's length and width, was always going to be tricky to find a one-size-fits-all solution to this. I felt the skirting board wasn't far off.

I stapled a 4ft length of 60-grit sandpaper around the board, then went to work. It was a lot easier than I thought.

Turns out I hadn't put enough filler in certain places, so once I was down to metal in the high spots, I reapplied more and went at it again.

It's not bad. Much better than it was, although there are still a few low spots here and there. I'm not sure how thick the filler is, but the panel still rings like metal when tapped, and it flexes like metal when pushed. The nice bit is that, using the feeling-through-a-cloth smoothness analysis, it feels like a constant curve with no bumps or ripples like beforehand.

There's too much metal on show here - I should have stopped when it was just breaking through. I can take-up any slack with the high-build primer, which is my next task. I can't wait to show you my homemade air-fed mask - it is ghetto as f***.

jamie wrote: I can take-up any slack with the high-build primer,

Jamie, It is much easier to get it right now using filler, high build primer isn't actually that high build and is designed to fill sanding scratches not for filling depressions.

If you can feel it, primer will not fix it!

Try dolphin glaze. Very fine filler - goes on almost like a thick liquid - good stuff

OK - thanks guys - will do that.

...I admire your commitment! I'd have abandoned it long before now.

And don't forget you are working this weekend

Will you be there?!

Not this time unfortunately, have a good trip

Just received this gem of wisdom in an email from my friend John Gray:

Gray wrote:All the same mess though, fools that think they can build a car in their spare time by themselves that it took a factory full of trained men to do before.

Looking great Jamie, I keep coming back to your page to see whats going on and you are doing a great job! Its my favourite resto by far.

Thanks Jos. Yours must be nearly finished by now?

OK - updates from today:

Searched for info on re-chroming this lot:



Drew this in Sketchup. Any guesses what it might be?

Yes, but it needs one or two returned edges for stiffness which is the hard bit when you make one.

jamie wrote: Drew this in Sketchup. Any guesses what it might be?

Cool Engine bracket for use with 911 mounts ?

Look forward to seeing that fitted !

911hillclimber wrote:Yes, but it needs one or two returned edges for stiffness which is the hard bit when you make one.

You'll notice on the drawing that the top edge is slightly thicker than the bottom. This is to bend a 10mm return along the top length. I can't work out a way to do the bottom on the bending brake because of the angle, except perhaps to bend the two angled edges, and then weld a section between on the bottom edge.

Material is 3mm mild steel.

This design was copied from a drawing sent to me by Hayden of Wevo. He had a similar mount in his 912, except made out 6mm 6061 aluminium. The only thing is, it was a solid piece, so it blocked the view of the engine somewhat. Seeing as the Dude has spent so long making my engine look nice, I want a decent view of it.

Incidentally, the Dude reckons I should make it out of aluminium too. I dunno. It would have to be thicker than 3mm, and then it would be difficult to bend the return without tearing the metal.

Quick volume check on Sketchup says the 3mm steel version is about 1100g, and the 6mm aluminium one would be about 2/3rds of that.

Ok, gotcha.
I would fold the angle side and weld-fill the gap/wedge with a strong straight face to stop it bending on contraction.
Any flex in the wide cross mounting will allow the gear shifter to shuffle fore and aft, so the stiffer the better....

A lot of the 935's had fabricated (from alum alloy tube) rear mounting that doubled as a rear cross-member.

There are aluminium alloys and then there are high performance alum alloys!
Steel is by far the easiest.