DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Dinitrol would be better than Waxoyl
Ian

Thanks guys,
Let me explain about the black waxoil (clear is still available & I have 3 or 4 litres left).
The plan for the arches is to locally repair the ripple black underseal where it’s flaked off and you can see blue paint. This will be done with a Shultz type stone guard to replicate the ripple texture.
I have other cars where the underside is black waxoiled. It’s great for protecting the car but a real nightmare when working near it. Since it never truly dries, on my other cars I get covered in it when working underneath. The black waxoil I only intend to coat up inside the rear quarters behind the door striker plate, the small round vent and under the roll bar fin. These are places that require a good protection but in areas that you don’t need to work in. The rest of the arches I will coat lightly with black Shultz as it dries well and shouldn't get on your clothes while working on the car.

Karmann, there’s no process exactly for cleaning under the arches as such. The cars stranded on axle stands in my garage which is just over 8 ft wide, so it’s a squeeze down each side. The method is 3 old bowls on top of newspaper on the floor to catch the water, then a bucket with hot soapy water. I have two pan scrubbing/washing up brushes, a baby bottle brush and several sponges and cloths. Just wet, scrub, rinse, wet scrub, rinse over and over to get them clean. 5 or 6 fresh buckets of water and mopping the garage floor each night at the end to clear up any mess that’s missed the old bowls. I reckon it’s taken me maybe 20 hours to do this in the confines of the narrow garage by LED torchlight and 4 changes of clothes as I’m trapped under the arch each time wrapped around the wheel hubs and axle stands so cant get away from the muddy water spray.

Today I started to replace the Driveshaft seals on the gearbox. After a bit of a struggle with the CV joint bolts They came out to reveal some very dry molybdenum grease and on further inspection the CV boot rubbers had started to perish at the base of the concertina mouldings. To be fair by the state of the grease they need stripping down cleaning and re-packing with grease, so it’s a good time to replace the boots. (Will order some up on Monday)
To ease access of cleaning (and to do it properly) I removed the castleated nuts and pulled out the hub shafts with the driveshafts. In this way I can get all the crusty old grease out of them and also clean the dirt and sand from inside the large hole in the trailing arms later in the week.
Next I removed the O/S drive flange from the gearbox to access the first lip seal. I cleaned the old grease out of the recess in it and almost cut my finger.



All around the inside chamfer there was rubbing and burring? I cannot see how this could of happened unless the CV joint had failed in the past or shims had been required and been lost?
The oddest thing is that there is no visible wear on the CV joint that was attached to it? I inspected the other end of the driveshaft in case someone had taken them out in the past and put them back the otherway around. (inside to outside) but no wear on either end? The only explanation I can think of is that a CV joint may have been replaced in the past.
Despite the wear not getting in the way of anything, I wasn’t keen having the mushroom burrs on the flange because if they broke loose; small bits of metal could get into the CV Joint and ruin it.
I put the flange in my lathe and turned down the burrs so that they were gone.



This was the easiest way I could think of the get down inside the flange to remove them. I was careful not to machine the “dents” out as this would take too much metal off and could possibly weaken the flange. Finally I gave the outer casting of the flange a coat of thin waxoil to protect it.



With the drive flange off I had new seals and a new O ring so I took the differential cover off so that I could inspect the bearings, gears and clean out the sump of the gearbox.



All mechanical parts looked good, but there was a fair bit of sludge in the bottom of the gearbox casing that simply taking out the drain plug wouldn’t remove. I cleaned it all out so that it was spotless before turning my attention to the cover that holds the lip seal.
With this removed it was very simple to drive the lip seal out from behind without risking any damage. Once out I cleaned everything up. I’ve been slowly cleaning the engine, gearbox & suspension. When the car was originally undersealed they sprayed it everywhere and splattered everything. It was even on the outside of this diff cover plate! With it off and on the bench I was able to clean it much easier so took the opportunity and then carefully fitted the new lip seal.
With the gearbox cleaned out and dry I fitted the new O seal and put the cover back on and refitted & adjusted the clutch cable. (Need to get a new gaiter for the cable too)



Finally I refitted the O/S drive flange with a tiny application of new gear oil on the seal & shaft and tightened up the bolt.

N/S tomorrow.

This morning I picked my son up early and we spent the morning with driving lessons.
This afternoon I continued with the 914 and replaced the N/S gearbox shaft seal. All parts were cleaned up before reassembly. Curiously there was a tiny but of CV joint rubbing inside the flange but no where near what the O/S had.
I also managed to do all the local repairs on all 4 arches where the underseal stone guard had flaked off and I'd removed the loose. I used a mini roller with an emulsion head to replicate the spray/stipple effect to make invisible repairs. This will need a couple of days to dry properly before I can black out the whole arches where the original has gone a bit grey. I plan to dismantle clean and rebuild the CV joints over the next few days while this dries.
When I took the car apart for the respray I found that the clips that hold the thin ali trim strip that goes along the bottom of the roll bar fin vinyl, had a big blob of old caulking on them up inside the wheel arch. Presumably to stop water/spray from the wheel running out under the clip on the outside of the car.
With everything dry and clean I used some new caulking rolled to about the size of a marble to cover the back of the new clips up inside the arch to replicate how I found them.

Today I contacted Porsche Centre with a list of part numbers for the CV joints. Boots, circlips, gaskets etc. The boots are available rubber only and x ref to same as 911, but if you want them complete with metal bit on the end (with bolt holes) they are sold separately and still available but £29 each!
Annoyingly the cork gaskets that stop all the grease being thrown out at the flange joints are no longer available I'll just have to make some from gasket material.
This evening I started the god awful messy job of taking the CV joints apart. Early diagnosis is not looking good as Desert Sand has gotten into 3 of the joints and the grease is gritty between your fingers. I fear another phone call tomorrow to price up some new CV joints. To replace 3 and not the 4th is a little stupid so it's going to be another expense that I wasn't counting on. They do look like IRS Beetle CV's to me, and at £50 a pop that's £200. It'll be interesting to see if Porsche still stock them. I've got to be careful here as the Beetle & 911 use 6 bolts and the 914 has 4 plus two dowels, so more homework is required.
Hey ho; that's how it goes some days with old cars.

Just a reminder if anyone has a spare wheel bolt to pm me please, I'm planning on getting mine replated in BZP and I'm one missing.

Thanks

I’ve used this ebay company in Germany before who seem to get hold of original OEM driveshafts cheaper than anyone else
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/mh-teile/m.ht ... pg=&_from=

Ian

I think Kev is in conversation with Dave Mac Propshafts of Coventry about CVs and having them drilled and dowelled to suit.

Gaskets etc are all available easy for the 911 (try www.type911.com) and I suspect Porsche would raid the parts bit for the 914 from the 911 bins.

Worth asking type911.

The CV man in Coventry has lots of positive feed-back on DDK in the past.

Thanks Guy's

Spoke to Porsche Centre this morning. 914 driveshafts complete are STILL available from Porsche . Ordered two as its cheaper than buying all the genuine parts individually (joints, boots, circlips, dome washers etc). Plus I was planning on getting the shafts blasted and powder coated while they were stripped down, so a small saving there too
The 911 & 912 CV joint gaskets look the same for the early cars as the 914, but still checking this out. part number seems the same starting 901 instead of 914, but will need to confirm compatibility due to the dowels.

BTW, this thread just past the 10,000 views

Darren C wrote:Thanks Guy's

Spoke to Porsche Centre this morning. 914 driveshafts complete are STILL available from Porsche . Ordered two as its cheaper than buying all the genuine parts individually (joints, boots, circlips, dome washers etc). Plus I was planning on getting the shafts blasted and powder coated while they were stripped down, so a small saving there too

The complete driveshafts that Porsche supply now for the 914-4 are the ones originally used on the 914-6.
The difference is the number of splines on the shaft; on the 914-4 there is 33 and on the 914-6 there is 25.
All fine till you require one 94mm x 32mm CV with 25 teeth in the future!

10K views because it's a good thread to read!

Hope you are keeping all these big invoices, be a good selling feature.

Darren C wrote:The 911 & 912 CV joint gaskets look the same for the early cars as the 914, but still checking this out. part number seems the same starting 901 instead of 914, but will need to confirm compatibility due to the dowels.

Not the same part.
The 911 & 912 CV joints are 100mm diameter while the 914 & 914-6 are 94mm diameter.

True.... "911" box ('69on pre 915) is larger but 901 box (65-68) with lobro is also 94mm but without dowels

This morning before work I started to clean up all 16 CV joint bolts (they were pretty manky with old dried grease, sand and dirt) and left them in a small pot of white spirit before leaving home.
As I posted earlier, this morning 1st thing while reading my work emails sent overnight I called Porsche Centre and sorted out some new driveshafts.
Thanks for the info on the splines Kev. I’ll let you know how many they turn up with. Looking in the Porsche PET it lists the 914/4 & /6 as having the same driveshaft part number so not sure if that’s an error on my copy or I’m reading it wrong?
The gaskets are a punt. They’re £1.17 each and Porsche Centre said that if they’re wrong I don’t have to purchase them, so worth a try. No big deal if they wont fit, I can make some up out of rubberised cork gasket sheet. It’s still a bit frustrating that the driveshafts are available but the gaskets required to fit them aren’t.
I’m certainly keeping all the receipts, in fact I’m now on the second box file! As for a selling feature, it’s certainly a keeper for now.
This evening when I got home I continued on the 914 with cleaning up the N/S rear trailing arm. The front pivot was splattered with old underseal and the painters had got blue overspray on the outer bracket while painting the car and arch returns. I started by carefully scraping it off to find solid steel and original black paint underneath. I was pleasantly surprised to find the outer pivot Philidas nut was still shiny gold zinc plate underneath the underseal and looks like new now. Hopefully tomorrow when I clean the O/S it will be the same.
I was also very surprised by the amount of crud that had accumulated in the arm down the driveshaft hole. It was pretty much packed solid with just enough space for the CV joint to rotate. Almost 3/8” thick all around which covered the whole of the old washing up bowl bottom I was using to catch the dirt when I scraped it all out. Afterwards I cleaned everything yet again with a white spirit soaked rag.
The dark nights are certainly drawing in now and I had to use the torch from about 6:30pm tonight. With 3 hours cleaning; the N/S trailing arm is now clean and ready for a small touch up of some stone chips that I hope to do this weekend on mass with the other side after some more cleaning.

Bruce M wrote:True.... "911" box ('69on pre 915) is larger but 901 box (65-68) with lobro is also 94mm but without dowels

The up till 68 LOEBRO drive shaft CV is the same size as the one used on the 914, but it doesn't use a cork/cardboard gasket on the mating surface to the gearbox joint flange.

Just out of interest Kev, have you any source/lead on these gaskets?
I've found a couple of listings in the US, but shipping is far more than the gasket price.