DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Does this help - know it is about wheel studs, but does mention manuals v USA interpretation, may help console you?

Shear strengths, torque settings etc.

https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewt ... th#p565223

Peter:
I did my last rebuild on my thrashed 3.2 hill climb engine simply following to the letter Waynes book, having used the Peter Morgan and Haynes books before.
No issues 5 years on and that engine has been abused.
I would simply leave well alone and carry on regardless if it was my engine.

Do not doubt yourself young Padawan, how many people have followed Waynes book to the letter and not had any problems.

That's the dilema Phil. Many have, but for the sake of say £150, save a potential destroyed engine.

If I can get a reputable set of bolts for less than £150, I'll go new. If not, then I'll go with Messers Wayne & Bentley.

What price a sleepness night

I don't see how a quarter turn can result in an extra 55nm?

Hi Peter,

I too would be surprised if the extra quarter turn increased the torque 55Nm!

I did mine at 20Nm + quarter turn and pretty sure I used the same torque wrench set to its highest value and I managed to get a quarter turn without it triggering so don't think you are adding that much more.

Either way my car is still making those 'brum brum' noises and not failed yet - but thanks for the added worry
Andrew

Maybe I'm being too paranoid

Whilst having my ‘wobble’ clearly the engine work stopped. However, having a wet day with no other duties (rain stopped gardening), I still ventured into the garage.

There is a theme running through today’s episode…….I wasted a very long time hunting for my side windows. I knew that I had put them somewhere safe so that they wouldn’t get damaged. Previously it had taken quite a while to find them., but I did, then realised that I needed felt runners for the rear channel (remember this bit), so put them away again. Did find the glass in the end though.

Next step – empty my little packages on the floor.


The keen eyed will notice that I had removed the door speaker already. I replaced the felt runner in the quarterlight, then fitted it, including twice dropping the front bolts and washers down the inaccessible channel in the door, requiring much effort with a magnet to fish them out. I then added a felt runner to the rear channel (mine was missing and do you realise the parts diagrams don't mention it).


I then went to fit the wiper motor assembly. This was of course when I realised that I couldn’t fit it without removing the quarterlight. Doh. Anyway, removed quarterlight. I fitted the brackety part that actually holds the glass. Then I realised that I needed to power the motor to adjust the angle of dangle of the various parts, so connected my spare battery. This was of course a tad flat, so I had to ferret around and get out the battery charger. Then I realised that I couldn’t fit the assembly in with the brackety part fitted, so removed it. Boy, I did wish that I had videoed the taking apart !

Finally fitted the motor assembly and fitted the quarterlight (again). This is when I realised why the parts manual doesn't show a felt runner for the rear channel - there isn't one. The brackety thing runs in the channel. Removed felt bit from the rear channel, added the brackety thing (again) and inserted the glass.


Ran the wiring to the switches and pressed the button. Nothing. Checked by running power directly to the switch and all was fine. Checked the wiring – found the windows work better if you have the relay fitted.

Felt pleased with myself, took a moment to savour my small success, and set to fitting the internal door locking mechanisms.


Added the door check strap, and that was it for today – time for a small amber one methinks.

Maybe a bit of too much of a good thing, but daily updates for a while. Maybe better than the no updates for yonks when sailing got in the way. Not had any official cancellations yet, but I think it's not too much of a stretch for me to realise that all my instructing has gone away for this month.

So, back for a bit more messing today. Started by removing the NSF wing and routing the mirror loom. This of course required the removal and rerouting of the speaker and central locking wiring, just like the driver’s side previously.


Before the wing was refitted, and just because I could, I fitted a fuel overflow non-return valve.

A bit lighter and certainly a lot less hassle than the big plastic bottle thingy that was there before. More room for my aircon condenser as well.


Then onto the passenger window. Having learned several ‘what goes in before what’ lessons yesterday, this side was a lot better, with no 'put it in, then take it out' moments.


Working out the wiring so that both the OS & NS switches worked the window correctly caused a moment of head scratching. However, a bit of wiring diagram perusal together with some common sense and a bit of guessing, and both windows do the uppy & downy as they should.

Ran out of time to fit the door latch and internal locking bits, but got to leave something for tomorrow . Also,once I stop procrastinating, I've an engine to continue rebuilding.

Very nice to see that big pile of bits we had on the floor attached to each other doin' their thang in the car

Well done mate and keep up the good work

Bit of a shoiter that we can't have another play on Thursday

Internal door latch & lock parts fitted to NS door one day and playing with the central locking the next (well, the one after that in truth, but no-one’s telling).

I've got a pair of generic door solenoids wired in to my alarm system. The only place that the solenoids will fit is in the ‘big hole’ in the inner door panel, but they can’t be set in too far, or they’ll meet the power windows on their way up and down. Too far out and they’ll cause a big bulge in the door card.

They come with a holed metal strip, but with the solenoid needing to fit half inside and half outside the inner door panel, the supplied strips are too flimsy and likely to flex when the door card goes on. You can imagine the result of the windows hitting the solenoid. Probably the windows will jamb and the solenoid with crack. Not ideal.

I settled on some 1mm thick sheet steel, with an offset at each end to stand the fitted bracket off the inner door panel. So bendy, bendy, bash, bash (oh, and drill, drill) & I had a prototype.


No interference with the windows (about 6mm clearance), and hopefully the door card won’t bulge too much.
Made an opposite handed one and sprayed them both.


Will fit them tomorrow, and maybe the door cards as well.

Well, didn’t get to the door cards, but did fit the solenoids with the new brackets. All working well.




Onto more important matters.
As you may have seen elsewhere, I bottled the rod bolts and bought a new set. My logic was that even though the consensus of opinion is that all would be well, I would always worry. At the end of the day, a new set of nuts and bolts is a lot cheaper than a new engine, plus I get to sleep at night
Anyone want to but a set of bolts, only used once and never run

Step 1 was to annotate my Bentley manual, removing reference to the 20Nm + 90’, and then checking every torque setting mentioned in Bentley against my Technical Specifications book. Actually only found 1 other difference – Bentley stated 32Nm and TS said 33Nm. I think we can ignore that (although I did change my Bentley).


So, then onto the real work and first I had to remove the rods from the crank


and remove the bolts, clean the bearings, rods, caps and crank. Then came the trying to balance all of the rod weights. Not quite so good this time – by swapping things around I ended up with five were exactly the same but the sixth one was 0.3g lighter. As Porsche specify a 6g tolerance, I decided that that was close enough.
Next was pressing the bolts into the caps (I might have started dropping them into the rods before I remembered that I was rebuilding a Porsche, not a Ford ), oiling first and using a deep socket along the bolts.


Clean the bearings and rods & caps again, dry fit the bearing shells, apply assembly lube and place on the crank. I did remember to ensure that the caps were matched to the rods (same numbers stamped) and that the numbers were all facing the same way. Then a drop of oil on the threads, nip up, check things were rotating smoothly, tap each bolt to ensure it was properly seated, then torque to 20Nm, check smooth rotation again and finally torque to 52Nm (definitely in the range 50-55 this time). I laid the crank on its side and checked that all rods fell from the vertical at approximately the same rate (very precise this ).

So by the end of the day I was back to where I started, except I am slightly poorer but mightily relieved.


Assembling a crankcase next then.

Bit of garage tidying today (SWMBO has been ‘bringing to my attention’ the amount of ‘garage stuff’ that has found its way into one of the sheds). Apparently panel stands, press, etc don’t belong in there. That said, yesterday was a tad more productive, as I couldn’t put it off any longer .......


……. it was time for the procrastination to stop………




Step 1 - layout all of my tools, manuals, sealants and fasteners (maybe mini-procrastination, but I hope understandable)

Step 2 – clean crankcases (again)

Step 3 – fit bearings with loadsa assembly lube & test fit oil pump and intermediate shaft. Fiot Nop.8 crank bearing, checking that the bearing was correctly sat on the dowel, marked the bearing so that I could be confident that it was correctly fitted later.

Step 4 – remove oil pump assembly, add seal and o-ring to No.8 bearing, fit on crank (loadsa lube) and drop the crank in


Step 5 – add the rear seal to the crank and refit the oil pump & intermediate shaft


Step 6 – add sealant to all its important little places. I put 2 continuous lines of Loctite 574, sponged it and then added a single continuous bead


Step 7 - button up, using sealant above and below the o-rings on the through-case bolts. Nip up the perimeter bolts, add the through case bolts and acorn nuts (ensuring big washers are the correct way up – chamfer towards the cylinders), torque acorn nuts (holding studs steady), torque perimeter nuts, have mild panic over how long it was taking, check all nuts for correct tightness.




Step 8 – check for smooth rotation of crank, cover engine with plastic and put to bed overnight. Have a sneaky beer and chill

Phew.

Blimey Mate, you are going to have your engine rebuilt before I get my car back from a gearbox swap........

Bit of a way to go yet Phil - new (to me) cylinders and Wossner pistons all need CR and deck height checking.

Acrylic sheet arrived today, so I can check volumes now.