DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Slope330 wrote:Not what u want to hear ,mine rhd,it turned out cheaper to buy originals from Freisinger than bugger abt, but at that time car was in bits ………

inaglasshouse wrote:Some pics of mine here, which might be useful:
https://www.safetycolours.com/porsche-9 ... -oil-pipes

IanM wrote:
Are these oil pipes listed in the PET catalogue? If so, can someone please show me where as I can't seem to find it?

Thanks.

PhilipB wrote:If you need the 2.2S hard oil lines Neil Bainbridge has newly made up ones in stock.

Alan @ CanfordClassics wrote:To give this thread a little more clarity. Any repair to the pipe in situ is inherently a trial and see repair. Selected due to cost and in some cases time. This was discussed last time and agreed to trial a brazed repair. The only correct way is to replace the line. Previous mentioned ideas on this thread are again simply attempts to repair and hope it seals. There is very little space, movement and it is not possible to slice the line and replace a section. Our attempt was to braze the line in situ, which is inherently difficult as the lines are filled with oil which makes the job very difficult as it contaminates the area being brazed and also you are doing all this upside down. The attempt was agreed and repaired. This repair worked In that it sealed the line as the car left here dry in 2019, it went to a few shows plus was recently sold (not by ourselves) and the images used seem to show no oil leaks. See here (sorry not sure how to paste a direct link) 2021

https://flic.kr/p/2mDuANn

The rubber pipe is not the repair it was simply used to separate the lines from knocking together. If you need to increase visibility simply remove it. Clearly it looks like the repair has now failed, or there is another potential fatigue fracture, hence the only way to have true confidence is to remove the line and replace or attempt to repair whilst off the car. The line needs fully cleaning out first and also they need to be pressure tested before being installed. The body and paint was done in 2013 and I don’t have pics to see how they were installed.

Any repair in situ runs the risk of only be a temporary repair just like the previous attempt. Hindsight is wonderful and no repair on any restoration is intended to fail. Thus, rather than make the same mistake I suggest doing it by removing the sill and lower section of the rear wing. The kidney bowl will also have to be removed. Remove the front wing and i suspect the front wing closure panel will need to be slotted to remove the line and/or fit another. I estimate this to be 3 days and then paint. Plus parts and materials. I have mentioned the offer of help before and I’m willing to do so. Whilst I feel this can’t be a warranty repair, due to the agreement on the repair being undertaken in 2019, I can still offer a reduced rate and reduction on materials using our paint scheme, as I completely understand your frustration.

Thanks
Alan