DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Hi Greg not sure if any of this is relevant for your but may give you an idea.

Thanks Rich, really useful information. I think I will complete a dry run of all the components and then get the frame powder coated, prior to final fit.

So manged a full day in the cave yesterday working on the snagging list, so no major steps forward but at least good progress. Which included changing the oil tank mounting bracket, tidy up the electrical connections for oil tank. I changed the top rear shock absorber top bolts to ensure at least three threads were showing past the nut, actually a number of bolts were changed. Could not find any mention in the IVA manual about thread projection, but I guess its just good engineering practice. Fitted the Rear anti roll bar and drop links, and the seat belt inertia reels. Also fabricated a cover over the accelerator lever in the foot well to protect it.

Got any pictures of the inertia belt mounting as it's one thing that I have been wondering about....

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Yep no problem, my pleasure;



Not sure if its much help. I have fitted 3 Point inertia harnesses to a full roll cage. The harness is E approved and from securon. http://www.securon.co.uk/seatbelts_layouts.htm. The picture shows the inertia belt reel which is bolted through the cage, I welded at both ends a 14mm tube through the cage tube this provides a very strong anchor. Dont think IVA just allows for a hole through the cage for bolting. The other two mounting include, plate and nut welded to the central tunnel and the outer is bolted through the chassis reinforcing/ underneath of the cage. The outer vertical brackets are 4 mm thick steel which I have had powder coated. The spacers, washers and bolts are all with the kit as these are different thread size and tensile strength compared to standard.

Also try this link maybe give you abetter idea https://www.flickr.com/photos/65579473@ ... 8569413693

Also shown below the accelerator cover modification. May still need some more work yet.

The seats are starting to look great, considering how custom these seats are Garry is making good progress;

Are you going to cover those seats after all Greg?

Morning Rich, I spent a lots of hours with Gary at FX discussing the design, comfort, original look. We decided to use 911 ST pads in the houndstooth and sides in black nappa leather. We thought the sides needed covering to stop knocking elbows round tight corners. So most of the front will be covered but the back left chrome. I want to drive the car so compromised a little on the look, must be my age

So the electrical issues on the snagging list are all resolved, just leaves me with wiring the heated windscreen - Happy Days!
The to do list is definitely getting shorter, Mostly straight forward issues left like; Fuel hose through bulkhead needs a grommet, Block off air pipe on left side of fan housing, Sticker next to brake fluid level, Cover steering column edges and underneath, Rubber trim to be glued around rear reflectors/ front headlight brackets/ rear fog light/ inner handle/ bonnet and boot latch. Chassis number to be 17 characters long and stamped/ welded on the r/h side of chassis, Cover over ends of heat exchanges.
Last big issue hope to tackle over the next few days is fitting the windscreen.

I have now spent two full days on the windscreen. The frame posts needed reshaping at the bottom to create the correct angle, Gary at the Clinic suggested cutting off 4 mm off the front to nothing at the back, worked well on one side but required a little more on the other. I also cut 20 mm off the post and re-tapped at 10 mm. To ensure a solid brace to bolt the post to the body I fabricated some large angled shims. These were made from 30 mm diameter aluminium rod drilled for the post and cut an an angle to match the posts etc. So the frame and extension rod all fit very well and seem very secure. However not got the glass into the frame yet, frame may require some bending. Will need to make some sort of jig to avoid any kinking or crushing of the u channel.
I have re-positioned the switches to under the dash which looks better.
Once I have sorted out Flickr I will get some pics posted.

Hi Rich,
As discussed I have added some pics of the difference between the screen and the frame;

IMG_1404 by Greg Moore, on Flickr

IMG_1403 by Greg Moore, on Flickr

IMG_1405 by Greg Moore, on Flickr

Really have no experience on how far you can push/ pull the laminated screen before it cracks. The screen will fit within the frame but if I use the correct gasket then is gets very tight to pull push into place.

So I have done some research and Sikaflex-255 FC Fast Cure One Part Polyurethane Adhesive Black hits the important points, copes with high vibrations, bonds glass and aluminium, good gap filler etc

What do you think?

What's it like with the old screen in place?

I just laid the original screen over the frame to take some pics, really there is no difference between the two

You're a braver man than me if you are trying to get that to fit...did the screen and frame come from the same supplier? If so I'd pay the money and tell them to get it to fit.
Easy to say from my sun lounger on holiday, but I know I'd be sweating if I had this to undertake as my next task...good luck

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Greg I've just laid Ian's original template over the new screen. Can't post the pics as I've been busted by Photobucket police. Minimal differences between both. Intresting as both screens have come from Gary. Also note you have a aluminium frame and Ian as a steel frame. I can only presume your and Ian's screens are from same supplier just a different source. I also laid the heated screen over my chesil screen in the car and it has a very similar profile you are faced with.

I think your asking to much of the silkflex stuff with the frame in its present profile. Paul who used the silkoflex did say his screen fitted the frame quite good.

I would give it ago trying to manipulate the frame slowly bit by bit. Try some heat also. From my experience l accidentally bent my frame whilst in storage and managed to reshaped it quite easily. If they're are made with the same aluminium content you'll be fine.

I'll pop over in the coming weeks and see your beast. Need to drop a tank off at Ian's so l will kill a few birds.

Test to see if pic uploaded

https://flic.kr/p/WAtcWL

https://flic.kr/p/WZkcRp

Didn't work but does link you to pics. Help