Can you now... sounds much more reliable than a 50y/o circuit board! How do you do this? I cannot see it mentioned in the install manual or am I over looking this? Surely it would need a seperate wire from the CDI which it doesnt have the facility for?Jonny Hart wrote:Regarding the MFI cut out. You can get the CDI+ to perform the speed switch function. Programmable on and off RPM too!
BIB5566
Moderator: Bootsy
Re: BIB5566
Re: BIB5566
Very much 1 step forward 2 steps back with this car at the moment. Investigated my oil leak further today. Took the pulley off, and cleaned up the oil seal and #8 bearing area. Ran the engine without the fan for a few mins to see if I could see where the leak was coming from and yes its the dreaded #8 bearing leak. Its not just leaking a bit, its leaking a LOT. I reckon I get about 3 drips of oil a minute from it, so 5 mins of idling in one place and you have quite a patch of oil on the floor. I dont think this has been sealed up correctly when the engine has been split and put back together in the past but its impossible to know now.
Theres no way I can simply live with it, im going to have to deal with it somehow. From what I have read, even minor leaks from here are very difficult to fix so im going to have quite the mission to try and fix this. Its engine-out in any case. Im going to have to attempt the clamp ring method and hope I finally get a bit of luck for once! If that doesnt work, Ill really be up shite creek
Has anyone had any joy dealing with a #8 bearing leak?
Oil running down the block from the base of the #8 bearing over the intermediate shaft cover
Theres no way I can simply live with it, im going to have to deal with it somehow. From what I have read, even minor leaks from here are very difficult to fix so im going to have quite the mission to try and fix this. Its engine-out in any case. Im going to have to attempt the clamp ring method and hope I finally get a bit of luck for once! If that doesnt work, Ill really be up shite creek
Has anyone had any joy dealing with a #8 bearing leak?
Oil running down the block from the base of the #8 bearing over the intermediate shaft cover
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- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
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- Location: West Midlands
Re: BIB5566
Not sure I would call that "one step back".
I am not aware of any quick fix for a leak there other than full strip and start again.
I wish you good luck as you are so very close.
I am not aware of any quick fix for a leak there other than full strip and start again.
I wish you good luck as you are so very close.
73T 911 Coupe, road/hillclimber 3.2L
Lola t 492 / 3.2 hillclimb racer
Boxster 987 Gen II 2.9
Lola t 492 / 3.2 hillclimb racer
Boxster 987 Gen II 2.9
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- DDK 1st, 2nd and 3rd for me!
- Posts: 2062
- Joined: Wed Jun 23, 2004 9:47 pm
- Location: Nottinghamshire
Re: BIB5566
I know there is a kit you can get from the US to repair in situ, but have never tried it I’m afraid. Plenty seem to have had success with it
93 964 C2
99 Boxster 2.5 > 2.7 hill climber
71 914/6 3.0 - gone
'You see Paul, hill climbing is like making love to a beautiful woman. You get your motor running, check your fluids, hang on tight and WHOA..30 seconds later it's all over!' Swiss Tony
99 Boxster 2.5 > 2.7 hill climber
71 914/6 3.0 - gone
'You see Paul, hill climbing is like making love to a beautiful woman. You get your motor running, check your fluids, hang on tight and WHOA..30 seconds later it's all over!' Swiss Tony
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- Put a fork in me, I'm done!
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- Location: Kernow - good old Cornwall
Re: BIB5566
Looks like it’s this TAS-Nose Bearing Seal sleeve https://www.mobileworkswest.com/for-sale-911/ $129
Mike
1973 RHD 911T
1995 993 C4
1973 RHD 911T
1995 993 C4
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- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 8793
- Joined: Sat Apr 23, 2005 9:08 pm
- Location: Nottingham, UK
Re: BIB5566
I've never heard of those fixes - got to be worth a try.
If they don't work I was going to suggest that you get a tray to put under the car and live with it. My car used to pi55 oil - as people who followed me on road trips will attest. However it drove brilliantly and I had some fantastic fun with it before my big rebuild. I would say if you are looking to do a full rebuild to solve it then perhaps you should live with what you've got for a while - sort some of the other stuff out and enjoy driving the car - then maybe take it off the road in a year or two. Just my 2 pence worth.
However those fixes on the pelican forum look to be worth a try - if they solve it then looks like happy days for not too much work.
If they don't work I was going to suggest that you get a tray to put under the car and live with it. My car used to pi55 oil - as people who followed me on road trips will attest. However it drove brilliantly and I had some fantastic fun with it before my big rebuild. I would say if you are looking to do a full rebuild to solve it then perhaps you should live with what you've got for a while - sort some of the other stuff out and enjoy driving the car - then maybe take it off the road in a year or two. Just my 2 pence worth.
However those fixes on the pelican forum look to be worth a try - if they solve it then looks like happy days for not too much work.
The simple things you see are all complicated
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
Re: BIB5566
Agree with Sladey .... full engine rebuilds is usually opening a can or worms plus the ‘whilst I’m in here’ syndrome. I’d encourage you to get the car fully built and get some miles under it during 2021 ... then maybe if you can’t live with the oil leak plan on a winter build
We had one Ddker who used to top up with oil almost as often as we all filled with petrol ... didn’t stop him driving it and having fun
We had one Ddker who used to top up with oil almost as often as we all filled with petrol ... didn’t stop him driving it and having fun
James
1973 911 2.4S
1993 964 C2
2010 987 Spyder
1973 MGB Roadster
Its not how fast you go, but how you go fast
1973 911 2.4S
1993 964 C2
2010 987 Spyder
1973 MGB Roadster
Its not how fast you go, but how you go fast
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- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
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- Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:31 pm
Re: BIB5566
Wise advice above. Dripping oil means you change more oil and have a cleaner engine
Sent from my Redmi 7 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Redmi 7 using Tapatalk
“A REMINDER. I would be grateful if those members who have borrowed bits from me in emergencies (e.g starter motor, oil cooler, etc) would return them and/or contact me”. – Chris Turner RIP
Re: BIB5566
Hello all, thanks for all the advice. I certainly dont want to be splitting the case on this motor. Im going to try the clamp ring method to seal it. Hopefully I can get a permanent seal or at the very least reduce the leak significantly. I have a friend with a lathe so going to make our own interference fit ring and see how it goes.
I think the hardest part about the fix will be evening out the case faces. The two halfs are not level, there is a 1mm step from one half to the other, no ring will seal against that. So going to have to figure out away to get them more level.
Just my luck eh!
I think the hardest part about the fix will be evening out the case faces. The two halfs are not level, there is a 1mm step from one half to the other, no ring will seal against that. So going to have to figure out away to get them more level.
Just my luck eh!
- Jonny Hart
- Put a fork in me, I'm done!
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- Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 2:28 pm
Re: BIB5566
It uses the red wire flying lead to switch a standard automotive relay. The manual is a little out of date but Richard wrote it up on his site here:knapmann wrote:Can you now... sounds much more reliable than a 50y/o circuit board! How do you do this? I cannot see it mentioned in the install manual or am I over looking this? Surely it would need a seperate wire from the CDI which it doesnt have the facility for?Jonny Hart wrote:Regarding the MFI cut out. You can get the CDI+ to perform the speed switch function. Programmable on and off RPM too!
https://www.safetycolours.com/porsche-9 ... l-from-cdi
Re: BIB5566
Good to know. I forgot about those additional wires! Im going to try and fix my original but if I cant I'll go with this I think! Thanks JonnyJonny Hart wrote:It uses the red wire flying lead to switch a standard automotive relay. The manual is a little out of date but Richard wrote it up on his site here:knapmann wrote:Can you now... sounds much more reliable than a 50y/o circuit board! How do you do this? I cannot see it mentioned in the install manual or am I over looking this? Surely it would need a seperate wire from the CDI which it doesnt have the facility for?Jonny Hart wrote:Regarding the MFI cut out. You can get the CDI+ to perform the speed switch function. Programmable on and off RPM too!
https://www.safetycolours.com/porsche-9 ... l-from-cdi
Re: BIB5566
So Ive tackled my No.8 bearing leak this weekend.
Firstly I did a partial engine drop to access the bearing, removed the silencer, and rear engine mount and tinware, and the crank pulley.
The next issue is that the face of the two case halves are not level around the No.8 bearing. Ideally you would want to machine these level but obviously thats impossible. I had to file and grind very carefully by hand the side that was proud to level it out as best as possible. Then I cleaned the area with every degreaser I had available.
With the area ready I collected my repair parts, a 60mm Nitrile gasket, a tube of Dow Corning 730FS, a sturdy metal plate drilled to fit the crank bolt through and 2x aluminium rings I had my friend make who has a lathe. One ring is an interference fit made at 60.00mm ID (the no8 bearing on my car measured at 60.05mm), the other is a loose fit at 60.50mm.
Plaster the area with the DC730, put on the nitrile gasket, them more DC730. Now you have to work fast... slip over your oven heated interference ring (it expanded to 60.20mm when hot) Then put on the loose fit ring which finishes proud of the end of the crank face. Finally use the metal plate and the crank nut to press in the interference ring while still hot, and compress the whole thing together.
Put it all back together
Ill leave it for a week to set. take the plate and the loose fit ring off and hopefully it will seal... we shall have to see!
Whilst I was in there I noticed my silencer had some cracked welds on the top of the two inlet pipes. Not sure if this is common but I fixed them as they had clearly been blowing somewhat.
I got some sway-away rear spring plates for cheap as one of them had failed on the weld. I dont think this is very common, ive not heard of this issue before. Anyway Im happy to make do and mend so I fixed the broken side and installed them. No more messing around trying to get the ride height right I hope!
Hopefully all of these finishing niggles will soon be done with and I can take the car for a proper drive more than 10 mins from my house. I still need to have another crack at fixing my speed switch next.
.
Firstly I did a partial engine drop to access the bearing, removed the silencer, and rear engine mount and tinware, and the crank pulley.
The next issue is that the face of the two case halves are not level around the No.8 bearing. Ideally you would want to machine these level but obviously thats impossible. I had to file and grind very carefully by hand the side that was proud to level it out as best as possible. Then I cleaned the area with every degreaser I had available.
With the area ready I collected my repair parts, a 60mm Nitrile gasket, a tube of Dow Corning 730FS, a sturdy metal plate drilled to fit the crank bolt through and 2x aluminium rings I had my friend make who has a lathe. One ring is an interference fit made at 60.00mm ID (the no8 bearing on my car measured at 60.05mm), the other is a loose fit at 60.50mm.
Plaster the area with the DC730, put on the nitrile gasket, them more DC730. Now you have to work fast... slip over your oven heated interference ring (it expanded to 60.20mm when hot) Then put on the loose fit ring which finishes proud of the end of the crank face. Finally use the metal plate and the crank nut to press in the interference ring while still hot, and compress the whole thing together.
Put it all back together
Ill leave it for a week to set. take the plate and the loose fit ring off and hopefully it will seal... we shall have to see!
Whilst I was in there I noticed my silencer had some cracked welds on the top of the two inlet pipes. Not sure if this is common but I fixed them as they had clearly been blowing somewhat.
I got some sway-away rear spring plates for cheap as one of them had failed on the weld. I dont think this is very common, ive not heard of this issue before. Anyway Im happy to make do and mend so I fixed the broken side and installed them. No more messing around trying to get the ride height right I hope!
Hopefully all of these finishing niggles will soon be done with and I can take the car for a proper drive more than 10 mins from my house. I still need to have another crack at fixing my speed switch next.
.
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- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 18986
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 6:26 pm
- Location: West Midlands
Re: BIB5566
Interesting repair, new to me.
Looks like if everything was surgically clean it will work a treat. Await with interest!
Looks like if everything was surgically clean it will work a treat. Await with interest!
73T 911 Coupe, road/hillclimber 3.2L
Lola t 492 / 3.2 hillclimb racer
Boxster 987 Gen II 2.9
Lola t 492 / 3.2 hillclimb racer
Boxster 987 Gen II 2.9
Re: BIB5566
As do I!911hillclimber wrote:Interesting repair, new to me.
Looks like if everything was surgically clean it will work a treat. Await with interest!
Im going to leave it a full week to set. I really want this to work