DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Wonder what the result would have been for a targa?


Regards
Mike

Maybe some actual movement? Particularly on one before it's been restored!

0.22mm on the coupe is within measurement error.


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Perhaps the painters experience is based on other car where the shell has been restored to a different set of standards

Well that was a fun little diversion.
Back to the metalwork.

A couple of pics from the workshop that I enjoyed receiving:





The original paint code plate on the A-post was very much the worse for wear when I got the car. But it survived all those years, including during blasting, protecting a little patch of paint.
Lovely - it has its original colour and still a bit of shine. So that's the paint formulation sorted. Whatever matches that square is correct, as far as I'm concerned.
By the way we're not stripping that original bit off. Will mask it up during the paint process so it can go back under the replacement paint code plate in the end.

For me that last post is simply great.
I love keeping bits like that on the 11 cars/bikes I've done over the years, it is worth everything to do this, well done to you for thinking about it imho.

RH Door Rebuild

With the car dry assembled to the doors as supplied, the door could be removed, and the skin safely stripped away, safe in the knowledge that all references are in place.

This door was pretty mucky inside, and needed a few frame repairs.
Barry: With the frame repaired, and multiple test fits to the aperture (as they move a lot during the repairs, hence why it's critical to have your shut-hole all ready pre-aligned), the door could be prepared for the new skin.

Again, after multiple fittings, the skin could finally be tweaked over and welded into place. When they go well, they are a very rewarding panel to see back on the car. There are multiple ways of royally cocking it right up though, so it's always a relief to get the doors fitted for the last time.

Now that is very nice work indeed

LH Door

Same as the other side, although on this side the frame needed fewer repairs.

Brings back memories!
Are the skins from Porsche?
Mine came from Dansk all those years ago, the first in the UK I was told and were 'difficult' to get a gap to the wings with the sill on and gapped.
They look very true to me and the right profile in comparison.

Wonder what Barry uses to finish his repairs? It is a wire wheel after grinding etc?

911hillclimber wrote:Brings back memories!
Are the skins from Porsche?
Mine came from Dansk all those years ago, the first in the UK I was told and were 'difficult' to get a gap to the wings with the sill on and gapped.
They look very true to me and the right profile in comparison.

Wonder what Barry uses to finish his repairs? It is a wire wheel after grinding etc?

Hi Graham,
Yes, skins are from Porsche. They seem a really nice panel to me, and Barry likes them. One of the more reasonable Porsche offerings when considering quality:price ratio.
I don't know about finishing methods.
Cheers, Richard.

Yes, Porsche panels, and despite my usual gripes with Porsche, these show when they get it right, they get it really right. They fit a treat and are pretty much ripple free.

I have a couple of special tools to help me build the doors accurately and reasonably efficiently, the most important one being an extra-large nearly flat dolly; bit bigger than a postcard. It's weighs a ton, but really helps prevent rippling to the skin. These latest 911 (rather than 964) skins are pretty thin, and the slightest error sees ripples extending upwards right into the door.

As for finishing Graham, I have a whole load of tricks to get things to look well in the bare flesh. The principle's the same all the wat through though. First, make sure any butt joins are dead, dead level. If the new and old metals aren't at exactly the same height, you'll never lose a repair. Grind weld bead to within a fraction above the metal. Linish with a fine'ish flap disc, then DA or fibre disc, plus a finishing wipe with scotch-brite or similar. Like I say, by far the most important bit is the initial alignment of the metals. If that's not right, the weld will always show, and no amount of grinding will save / hide it.

Thank you both.
Those Dansk skins were murder, had to weld 1/8 welding wire to the front edgeto bridge the gap.
I ask as I'm steeling myself to delve into my shell prior to a pro paint job in November.

I remember using Dansk skins, oh my word they were awful things. The Porsche ones are very crisp and don't have the Dansk style deep ripples in them either. Well worth the extra.

Sill Closers and Oil Pipes

The 2.2 wouldn't have had sill closers to the front originally, but they are a no-brainer. They help keep the road muck out of the sills, fully box them and are hardly visible when the car is built. The 2.2S is complicated of course by having those oil pipes, so there has to be a compromise on the sill closer to this side. Even so, it can't help but stiffen the whole structure up.

To the rear, a kidney bowl has to be modified to allow the oil pipes through. I put a tiny flare on the top of the metal, so a) there's no chance of it fretting the pipes, and b) it gives somewhere for the bead of sealant to sit neatly.

With the oil pipes, kidney bowls, jacking points and reinforcements plus those closers all in place, the outer sills could be welded in.













Few more pics here: https://www.safetycolours.com/porsche-9 ... -oil-pipes

Front Wings

These were original Porsche oldies that came with the car, and they cleaned up very nicely.






A small amount of fettling was needed in the headlight bowl area. Barry's commentary:
I think this is my favourite repair on the whole car. Technically it's one of the hardest.
Once done, the various issues with the headlight fit were overcome, and a smidge of lead added to the wing to deal with the indicator fit. As I said before, woe betide anyone temped to use filler here, it'll end in your tears and their laughter should you it revealing a blob of plastic under that lovely paint.