Slightly O/T - 996 rebuild / Boxster transplant

[Lightweight_911]

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A very interesting/enlightening thread Wayne - thanks for taking the time to post it.

It just re-enforces why I dislike & don't get involved in working on 'modern' cars ...

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[rhd racer]

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A very interesting/enlightening thread Wayne - thanks for taking the time to post it.

It just re-enforces why I dislike & don't get involved in working on 'modern' cars ...

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I’d be interested to know why Andy. It is tightly packaged and has a few issues to negotiate, and prior knowledge helps, but you could say that if almost any engine


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[rhd racer]

Not had much time this week (read any!) so just managed to high temp loctite the studs in at lunchtime and repair the 3 threads which pulled out last weekend.

That left me to be able to put the exhaust on tonight. The only issue with the equal length headers is that they cannot be any longer so are much wider than the block. This means that in the near side they foul the plastic power steering return line. I have already wrapped it in protective sleeve, and made a heat shield last time I ran them, so just need to find that….




I then removed the O2 sensors from the old catalysts, and fitted them to the new 100 cell ones. I then made a couple of shouldered m8 blanks and loctited them in, and loctited in the M14 blanks used for the 2nd set of O2 sensors in later cars. These falling out could ruin a race weekend



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All made much easier by another candidate for ‘my new favourite tool’ - an electric ratchet which I got for my birthday this year



It’s seriously useful and I have a socket on my impact wrench for tight stuff then use this


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[misteralz]

That's fab. I've got a Parkside one, which I bought on sale as it was cheaper than hiring one for a day for the one job I needed it for. Figured if I found it useful enough I'd replace it with something better when it died. That was over two years ago and it's still going strong. If it does die, I'm replacing it with another Parkside one.

[Nine One One]

That's fab. I've got a Parkside one, which I bought on sale as it was cheaper than hiring one for a day for the one job I needed it for. Figured if I found it useful enough I'd replace it with something better when it died. That was over two years ago and it's still going strong. If it does die, I'm replacing it with another Parkside one.

Lidl currently have the Parkside ratchet in stock, as well as an impact gun (400NM) if anybody is interested?

[rhd racer]

I don’t recommend the impact gin, for what it’s worth. I got one and it would not undo wheel nuts at 95lbs, where the max torque was supposed to be c150 from memory. I presumed it was a battery issue, complained and they kindly sent me another battery but performance was the same.

I then got a ‘show deal’ with two mates on a 3 Draper professional ones and they are amazing.

So only get one if you want to do odd jobs in semi tight nuts, but if doing pit changes, flywheels, front pulleys, suspension components I wouldn’t bother.

Can’t speak to their electric ratchet mentioned earlier though, which obvs is less torque hungry


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[Nine One One]

What Model Draper please?

[Lightweight_911]

I’d be interested to know why Andy. It is tightly packaged and has a few issues to negotiate, and prior knowledge helps, but you could say that if almost any engine

- just the complexity (on the outside of the engine) - the multitude of additional hoses, sensors, electrical connectors, etc ...

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[rhd racer]

Hold tight then Andy - will be doing the ancillaries and loom tomorrow! The air oil separator and starter motor position will have you in goose pimples! There are the only car where you change the starter if you happen to be in the area for ease that I have ever come across!!!


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[rhd racer]

What Model Draper please?

It is a Draper Storm Force 20v. We got a group deal direct from them at their stand at the Silverstone Festival.

It came with a spare battery which is great for racing weekends, though even with a lot of use I prob only swap and charge the battery twice a year or so.




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[911hillclimber]

Nice weld beads on the sensor bungs Wayne.

Worse things about modern car designs 'underneath' are the main units are pre assembled and then inserted as a large module, and that makes some things really tricky.
Disconnect the battery and all manner of things need resetting.

However, modern cars are so easy to drive...

[rhd racer]

Had a good day on it today - unearthed some challenges but getting there

First up removing the inlet manifold to create access for everything else. The AOS (air oil separator or breather pipes) are untwined in the manifolds so need removing. The pipes are notoriously brittle and I have replaced with the engine in before, but it is a truly horrid job. These ends are so difficult to press and pull, especially in the car







As soon as it was off I put some old socks down the inlet holes in case of any stray bolts dropping

One such bolt near the AOS is totally inaccessible so I undid the AOS so I could lean it backwards out of the way






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Starter motor first. This is fairly new, but typically I replace them at this stage because they are so unfunny to change with the engine in, requiring the manifold to be removed



You will see there is a piece of self adhesive padding on top of it - that is because I had to fit the 2.5 cable throttle body on a 2.7 manifold and this makes the spacing very tight, so by angle down the TB you can gain some space. Whilst at it I removed the loom to create some more space





This is the bit I like - a quick clean up and then assembling everything like new on the new block


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[rhd racer]

Oil level sender




Cam position sensor above. The 2.5/2.7 use one on each bank but the 3.4 only uses one, so when I have the ECU flashed for the twin manifold flaps Wayne will delete the code for one of them (I am retaining the 2.7 ECU with the engine so I can swap back easily, and using a spare ECU for this engine)



Inserting a blank where the oil pressure sender is on the 996, and then swapping the sender to the other side



Then new seals for the oil cooler




Then knock sensors and the oil filler tube and dipstick tube. These are in a really challenging place to connect / disconnect in the car - more of which later. The filler neck is loose fitted as you can see there is a missing bolt which is part of the power steering housing





The below is an air blank with a sheared bolt. I was going to leave it but the bolt holds a bracket for the loom so I driller it sufficiently to get the old blanking plate off, then got some heat in the remnants of the bolt and managed to wind it out with molegrips



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[rhd racer]

Next onto the AOS. Having removed the breather pipes and the bolts so it could be moved to access the manifold bolt, it was only held by a rubber boot to the case



To refit you need to feed the protruding shaft that has a seal already on it into the case, and then refit the boot.







The new engine was then looking like this, with the main AOS pipe laid in place for now





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[rhd racer]

Next up is the alternator. There is an idler pulley on the pivoting bolt. This sounds a little dry so I will replace, so will loose fit for now




Then it is on to the power steering pump. I couldn’t quite remember how to do what I needed to do, but basically there is an inaccessible bolt that you can only reach by removing the pump. This is best done by removing the front pulley (impact driver so you can hold with your hand) and accessing the bolts. It can then draw out from the rear but is very tight and only goes one way




You need to disconnect the hard line from the feed also



I could then move the hard line and clamp to the new engine



With the pump removed for a good clean (they notoriously leak because they are designed to be removed using a quarter turn fixing that most don’t connect properly) you can now access the inaccessible bolt with a socket right down the middle of the housing




And then refit the pump. Cars with air con also have the air con pump here so they are a bit more complex but the same principles apply



This is the cause of most leaks


It now looks like this with the pulley reattached. The adjuster pulley also sounds a little rough so am going to order one of those too



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