DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Jonnysc wrote:

davep wrote:

jackstowers wrote:My 914 had been butchered by someone not knowing they were originally torx and using the wrong tool.

Torx, what Torx? Not on any Porsche I know of. The 914 CV joint bolts generally use the tri-square (12-point) bolts.

The 12 point female bolt heads are known as 'spline' drive, I believe. used extensively on new VAG stuff.

Porsche 12 point fittings are triple square a 90 degree angle between ridges hence the word "square"
having a 90 degree angle.
Spline has a 60 degree angle between ridges, the problem arises because most peoples tool boxes contain spline drives, very few contain triple square, use a spline to try to loosen a triple square fastener which is tight will result in a stripped fastener.
The problem results from the fact that a spline drive looks correct for the fastener but it's not!
The problem is further compounded because tool sellers often describe a triple square XZN as a spline drive which obviously it can't be for the reasons I mentioned above.
I'm sure from memory that my 964 has a hex bolt (6 sides) if your car has a 12 sided bolt ....it's XZN Triple square
Hope this helps

Edited to say I've just re read your original post and you say you've hex bolts as my 964 has try hammering the nearest size up triple square drive into what's left of the fastener, possibly you can then get enough purchase to remove them.

At last


What a lovely sight !

Well it did take some time. By using several extensions bars and my impact driver, I managed to get 8 of the 12 CV bolts out. The last 4 took an age with the hammer and chisel, but eventually they came out, as did the engine and box as a single unit.

Embarassingly, the reason that I couldn't separate the engine from the box might have something to do with removing the wrong starter motor bolt


Lotus went today, so now I have room to start my resto
Thanks for all the advice
Peter

Well done I knew if you kept on with a chisel you would get there in the end, hope you did not hit your hand too much.

Only a few times - my arms ached a bit this morning though

Well done!

Are you just renewing the seals which are accessible or are you planning on a top end rebuild?

It's come out partly for curing of the Exxon Valdiz effect, and partly for some bodywork.

The oil leaks appear to be coming from the usual oil switch & breather pipe housing gasket area. While it's out I'm doing the value clearances, f&r crank seals, oil cooler seals, etc and I'll check the clutch plate & bearing. Anything else to check ?

The engine will probably sit for a while, 'cos I'm also doing the sills, b-posts and kidneys. There is slight rust evident around the screen rubbers, so screens out and hoping that a rub down and paint will suffice. However, porkies being porkies, if it needs metal letting around the screens and/or inner sills also need doing, then probably I'll take it right back to bare metal. It also needs full body seals and a targa rebuild.

Apart from that, fuse boards from the special one, and a full suspension refresh it doesn't need anything

Want to keep it standard, but very tempted to replace the CIS with EFI.

Watch this space - I'll be trading a (slow) stream of photos for advice I'm sure
Peter

check your head studs for sure, when you do the valve clearances, if any are broken it should be fairly obvious!

Do you know the mileage on your chain tensioners (?), you can upgrade to the carrera chain tensioners - not everyones preference, but certainly more common than not.

I say start with the head stud check, and then if all good, fix the oil leaks, and think about all the other bits.

CIS is perfectly reliable as long as everything is within spec. I wouln't jump into a EFI on a standard motor, i don't think you would see that much improvment of a well tuned and correctly set up CIS vs the cost and tuning of the EFI.

Completley different of course if you rebuild with different spec.

Lastly if your front and rear seals arn't leaking just leave them. Don't fix what isnt broken, as you can just introduce problems, rather than solve or future proof some.

I think the above is excellent advice imho.
I would change the clutch for a new alum cover unit, new belt and if you have a lower cam cover leak new turbo alum covers on the lower halves with the right gaskets.
Keep whatever you take off, chuck nothing away.

Several people have had bad experiences with new body seals when replaced even with Porsche parts, so certainly keep them of re-use is good?