DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

What engine is the original one to the car?

I have not read all the posts but what about a pepped type 1 motor VW unit.. cheap as chips as such and easy to replace if needed.. plus don'#t forget you have to stop as well so stopping power

As far as I am aware it is the 1600 60hp engine. I dont have the numbers with me so I cant be 100% sure. Really dont fancy the idea of a vw engine, If I went that route I may aswell of brought a beetle.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/356/technic ... _stats.htm

To create an engine of super 90 power would basically mean a complete rebuild with new pistons, cylinders, heads etc. In other words several thousand pounds!
Are you sure you don't just want to use the Super 90 you've got and keep the 60 for originality?

There not fast cars, but with a Super 90 running at full efficiency, you'll find it more than capable especially if you keep to country roads etc.

Mine's a standard 356c, so only 75bhp, but it's light and nimble. Any faster and I'd be worrying about stopping with brakes designed over forty years ago, even if they are disc all around.

I had 100mph out of it (or so the speedo said), unfortunately I needed new bearings after that, and my mechanic said my wheels could have fallen off, so nice and easy from now on.

Perhaps try a 912 engine, aren't they meant to be the best thing you can 'easily' put in a 356? Really showing my ignorance now.

It wouldn't be correct for the year, but I think it's an 'exceptable' improvement. Isn't there a story about the Maestro putting one into Jerry Seinfield's speester (I may have got that wrong).

Plus I don't have any idea how expensive it would be.

Steven

I was after enough oomf to keep up to speed on todays motorways, dont fancy being overtaken by lorrys, caravans and my gran.

I think I will stick with the original engine, if I cant get any extra hp's without re-mortgaging my house then so be it.

well the engines would be pretty much a straight swap over- i think even the tin wear is the same.
So if you were planning to do proper journeys, Id go for the more powerful engine.
I wouldnt sacrifice the original engine in anyway, as that will always add ££ to the worth of the car.
It probably goes without saying- a properly tuned/sorted engine will always give a very lively performance over a thrashed unloved one, so Id just keep everything well maintained.
If you really start going for bhp, then you would seriously need to consider the safety aspect of over powering the limits of the car, and then you would have to def do the brakes at least.
They were small sports cars after all, so you shouldnt be in pipe and slippers in the slow lane

I wouldn't worry about being overtaken by lorries and the like.
As long as the engine you choose is properly maintained and has been built right then you shouldn't have any problems keeping up with or overtaking most traffic.
If I can cruise on the motorway at 60-65 in my '53 cab (which still has 16" wheels) then you shouldn't have any problems at all with your "modern" car.

what engine size is your 53 and what bhp is it putting out?

Im sure some simple things would help - free flowing air filters, re-jetted carbs and a performance exhaust must release a few extra horses

I managed to pick up some as-new chrome K+N filters for my 912 engine (mainly to solve the hassle of fitting the original 'pipe' filter boxes into my 356).
Only 25 quid on ebay.
Id be interested to hear if this would up the BHP?

Rustbucket wrote:Id be interested to hear if this would up the BHP?

By about 0.025%

But seriously, an ickle bit but not much.

Ive always found that on normally aspirated engines a "performance" air filter like a K & N alone will only give minimal gains in power. Coupled together with other mods the gains could be bigger.

After all engines do like to breath more easily.

It has a '56 1600 with 60 bhp. So the same as yours but with smaller carbs.
Everything is standard on the engine as well as a standard exhaust.
Still good fun though.

My 56 356a with normal 60hp 1600cc engine was rebuilt about 3 years ago. I can run / cruise at about 70ish on the motorways with extra if needed to overtake etc..... I just have to keep an eye on the temperature.
My main worry was stopping as a car in front with ABS etc would be a problem if you were all braking.

Since I have had the brakes worked on by PRS I feel so much more confident with the car. Stops well and I feel that the car is running quicker now even though I know that I have not really done anything to the engine other than look after it and make sure it is serviced correctly. But due to the handling etc.. it is much more responsive and I now liken it to my wife's old Saxo VTR and would be confident doing much the same things as that car (in the dry!).

So I think as long as everything is working well you will find that your 356 will perform well against other traffic and you will get alot of fun out of it. It will also surprise a few other motorists as well.

If you imagine that the 356 of the 50's was what the 911 /997 is today you will understand that is it still a relativey lively ride.

Enjoy

356 Luvver,

It is `your` car and you should do exactly what turns you one.
With that said, we all only custodians of these vehicles and we all sell - eventually
The best prices are obtained for original cars that have been restored by the acknowledged `names` in the trade.
When we are offered a rebuilt engine the next question is always – “who built it”?

Make a plan before you start + the order of importance

Do not do things that are prohibitively expensive to reverse or paint it Pink with Spots and cut a Plastic Sunroof into it (with apologies to all you guys with Plastic Roofs)

Do not take it to someone who has never worked on a 356 before – there are many quirks and pitfalls – you WILL end up paying for their learning curve

The Disc Brakes, you have, will be fine and cheaper to run than drums although, as someone else said, wheels are becoming difficult to find (but not impossible)

If you are going the whole hog on a proper body restoration make sure that you buy proper sound insulation with the correct pattern

Powerwise - 90 to 100 hp is readily available and about where you want to be.

Race cars, on Euro Fuel, produce around 140 hp but 10 /12 MPG is the norm and build costs are now in excess of £12,000
Super 90 Motors are different in a number of ways to other 356 motors and therefore give the Motor Builder a few more headaches (usually finding parts)
912 Motors have usually been overworked and abused
The best `Core` motors are Industrial Units (lightly used) but they must be Late Units, not early Units

The build costs break down into a number of areas and the bulk of these costs are actually Parts and Sub Contract:-

1. - Parts
2. - Subcontract (head work, balancing etc)
3. - Labour to build the Motor
4. - Carb rebuild
5. - Distributor Re-build
6. - Dynamo Re-build
7. - Bead Blasting, Painting and Plating (Cosmetics) + the running around
8. - Assembly time (ancillaries, Tinware etc)

The cheapest way is to choose your engine builder and ask him to build you a Motor, minus items 4 thru 8 – This way you can handle the remainder and save a little money

Make a friend of your engine builder
Make a friend of your supplier – that way advice comes free - they will also spend a bit more time, on your behalf, looking for that Unobtainium item that you cannot live without

Prices look cheap in the US (especially with today’s $) but do not forget the shipping, duty and paperwork costs – No Comeback on the supplier either!

Do not assume that every supplier sells the same parts – we scan the world for the best out there – DO IT ONCE and DO IT RIGHT

Hoping all this helps a little - Mike at PR
www.prs356.com