DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Thanks Lewis.

I checked the tyre pressures yesterday and instead of 29/31 FR they were 26/36.

Fixed that and the steering lightened up a bit and it felt great to drive.

I’m going to drive it all this week then next week I’ll strip all the suspension down so that when I come to install the tractive kit everything is stripped and ready to go.

I get back from holiday at the end of April and then have 3 weekends to install the kit before an alps trip in the final week of May. Gotta love a deadline.

Has to be one of the longest running threads on DDK and certainly one of the most enjoyable

Credit to you Mark...Bravo

Thanks Dazzler - same to you

OK so the tractive stuff isn’t due to arrive until I’m away on holiday but this is what I’m expecting to be delivered



So the plan is when I get back from an upcoming trip to Japan I’ll have 33 weekends to get it all fitted, then set up by Centre Gravity on Monday 18th May before trip to Austria and Slovenia to give it a proper testing. That’s the plan anyway.

To reduce the pressure on those weekends I decided to start stripping it down now.

On centre gravity’s recommendation I ordered 2 front wheel bearing kits as the inner race it a bitch to get off.

I remembered previous times when I dismantled too much of the suspension and ended up with stuck bolts but no way of holding everything solid to undo them.

Used a big clamp to push out the pin - still had to use a large pipe wrench to turn the clamp, and it let go with a BANG!



Eventually I was left with this on both sides


And all the dirty stuff laid out on the worktops


Then I thought I might as well replace all the bearings while I was in there. This escalated.

Went from this


To this


To this

- A chance to finally put my sandblasting cabinet to good use!


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Had a bit of trauma putting the races back in - heated it up first


And then drifted it in. However with the inner race it seemed to reach a certain point and then wouldn’t go any further - there is a gap above the shelf that I thought it should go onto


I tried everything - dug out my homemade 20 ton bench press (which I found no longer works), put it in a vice, and even got out a bigger hammer. eventually I wondered if there might be a second ‘ledge’ that it actually sits on and that the gap might be intentional.

I looked back at my photos but didn’t have one clear enough, and Bentley manual wasn’t clear enough either.

The only way to know for sure was to start stripping down the other hub until I would get a reasonable look

That revealed that yes, there was meant to be a slight gap. Happy days.

The outer race went in with little problem. When hammering the inner race in a couple of the wheel studs popped out so I pressed them all out (really easy in a vice)



Then sandblasted them and finally blued them



And finally bolted the hub back onto the brake disc and torqued the nuts down



That side’s all ready now - will do the other side then hopefully I’m all ready for tractive fun and games in early May


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Nice work Mark


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Good going.
Lot going on and all crusted together over the years.
I have a working area on my only bench 3 feet x 18". That is a lot of worktop space.
Is the rear getting the same level of upgrade?

Nice one Mark.

I have always questioned that gap every time I've change the bearing. Usually have the other side there to check against though.

Did you freeze the inner race overnight? That usually works very well with the hub in the kitchen oven on max for 30-45 minutes. Then a suitable sized socket to knock it back in.

You can drift the old races out via those notches on the inside of the hub to get it started, but your puller looks more profess-neil.

911hillclimber wrote:Good going.
Lot going on and all crusted together over the years.
I have a working area on my only bench 3 feet x 18". That is a lot of worktop space.
Is the rear getting the same level of upgrade?

Yes I took the rears out first but didn’t take long. I replaced the rear bearings last year so not changing those. Bit of a bigger job that was.

Nige wrote:Nice one Mark.

I have always questioned that gap every time I've change the bearing. Usually have the other side there to check against though.

Did you freeze the inner race overnight? That usually works very well with the hub in the kitchen oven on max for 30-45 minutes. Then a suitable sized socket to knock it back in.

You can drift the old races out via those notches on the inside of the hub to get it started, but your puller looks more profess-neil.

Thanks - that’s not a hub puller - just blocking off the internal before sandblasting. I drifted the old ones out just as you did

Found some time and did the other hub this afternoon.

In case anyone’s never done it, winding the wheel studs back in is fairly easy (the brass washer is soft and sacrificial



One question though, I received these O rings in the kit but for the life of me I can’t think where they go



There weren’t any on the hubs I took off (but that could mean I missed them last time as well)

Any ideas?

Fwiw, no idea where they might go.

In the bearing kit? Could be that it's for a different application that uses the same bearings, and rather than having two product lines they just throw everything in the one box.

I don’t think it’s that as each bearing was individually wrapped up with its own Porsche part number - I think they put the package together at the shop. But you could be right.

The one part I haven’t taken off the old hub is the innermost spacer ring.

Got it! It’s sat behind that spacer ring - just checked in on PET - was confusing as on PET the o ring is the same thickness as the spacer ring

Is that the steel ring where the lip seal runs?
I've never removed that ring, but could imagine the O ring in there to seal the ring to the to the stub axle shaft.

Yes it seems to be that on the PET.

I was advised to get a new one because it’s a bugger to get the old one off - so went for full bearings set while I was in there