DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

ok thanks Nige, yes ive noticed normally there is an gold zinc arm sometimes. is this an easy replacement?
im sure once i remove it, there will be rust and corrosion?

thanks

To fit a front bar of you need the bushes and the plates with the hole, drop links and bar obviously… and your A arms probably won’t have the connection for the drop links, but this can be welded on. And weld them on the right way around unlike these arms I bought secondhand

The rear of the car is harder as it requires a bracket on the shell if you want a factory bar set up.

thanks Gary,

im sure i have that bracket on my front suspension. will it make much differecne to driving?

I’ve not driven one without so can’t comment

I wouldn’t do front without rear as they are designed to work together and theoretically front only would increase understeer.

ok thanks, sounds like a later upgrade for me then. best to get the body done first mate.
appreciate your help!

leedurrant73 wrote:ok thanks, sounds like a later upgrade for me then. best to get the body done first mate.
appreciate your help!

Might be worth having the rear ARB brackets welded on ‘whilst you are in there’ as it will be difficult to do it later
This is where they go.

hey Gary, where is this bracket?
I dont recognise the area.... sorry mate!

yes your right...

torsion bar area?

Yes, under the torsion tube, that’s one of Barry’s special upside down pictures that’s difficult to get without context!

ok will check tonight, i definately have the front, unsure if standard for a 69 car?
thank you!

leedurrant73 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 24, 2023 2:59 pm thanks Gary,

im sure i have that bracket on my front suspension. will it make much differecne to driving?

Front ARB made a huge difference even in a lowly 912, (13mm front ARB). Takes quite a lot of body roll and under steer out of the car. For a 69 they fitted a 15mm ARB for the front.

Sean

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In 1969 only the S models were equipped with anti-roll bars as std (15mm F&R).

For the T & E models they were optional - either a 13mm front bar only or 15mm F&R.

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My 73T came without the bars and in my experience, drove well on the road when touring about.
I drove mine for 3 years like that, then installed 2.7 RS spec bars front and rear.
Adding the mounting brackets as pictured at the rear by Gary was tricky
You can buy them new easy.
However, it is very easy to get the positions wrong and the bar touching the gear box crossmember (73 model in my case, 69 could be different).
You need to get a good check on this before welding it all, but just my diy experience many many years ago.

Iirc there is a full circle dimple in the panel that the bracket locates in, but the angle of the mounting flat is critical to clear things.

Thanks for all the useful info really appreciate it.

One question…. Obviously not going to use or start the car. Can I remove the bolts from the ARB cover plate both sides and still move the car on its wheels safely ?

Trying to get more parts gold zinced while my friend is willing on the cheap…. Have another batch ready

leedurrant73 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 24, 2023 10:38 pm
One question…. Obviously not going to use or start the car. Can I remove the bolts from the ARB cover plate both sides and still move the car on its wheels safely ?

Yes, no problem - essentially they're just blanking plates that cover the holes that the arb passes through if one's fitted ...

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