Posted: Wed May 12, 2010 11:09 pm
Just post the damn video!!!! 
Sorry, I don't know how to embed the video....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWDH5EevPNo
It really did start that easily !
Tim
DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker
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Meagsquirt EFI on a 2.2T - Real time data view with iPad
Page 17 of 20
Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 7:56 am
Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 7:59 am
superb Tim 
LeMans ?
Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 8:04 am
CLM ? Yes !
!Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 8:04 am
nice audio-edit 
Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 12:23 pm
Wow, that's amazing: seemed to run very clean as well.Well done Tim (and Gary
), great to see, and has put a smile on my face: look .Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 7:42 pm
Sweet
Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 7:42 pm
Posted: Fri May 14, 2010 7:29 am
Nice job.
Ian
Ian
Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 9:33 pm
Ok, time for an update on the EFI...
After the high of the initial start, I noted at the time that the you can hear the steady tickover go lumpy all of a sudden. On the video I describe the fuel leaking out of the gasket between the manifold and the heads. It turned out this was due to the a tight valve clearance on No 1 and a piece of aluminium shavings wedged in the seat of No 2 Inlet valve ( I guess this was similar on No 1 , but fell out giving the tight clearance). Lucky for me I managed to recover the debris from off the valve seat using some double sided sticky tape on a screw driver blade !! Luck to have found this and fixed it I guess, unlucky that it happened !!
The Culprit
I reset the clearances, retested the compression and hey presto ! Back in business. And I have been paranoid about dropping stuff down an inlet too ! Always keeping ports stuffed with clean rag etc !! Oh well ! The fuel I had seen between the head and the manifold was the compression gasses being pushed back out past the inlet valve seat !!
With the manifolds tightened back down the runs this morning were straight away much better ! Time to continue with the tune !!
Fiddling with the base REQ Fuel levels today, I managed to get the idle stable (ish) with the odd glitch, which has turned out to be random resets of the ECU !! I will have to nail this before I go too much further. I'll take a careful look at the 12V at the ECU tomorrow. It may need a filter (Like they use on in car audio) perhaps it was not your soldering after all Gary !! This could take some tracking down !! The glitch mostly shows itself a fluctuation in the fuel pressure, taking a big dip as the as the pump relay clicks on and off !!
My other big worry is that the injectors seem to flow rather a lot of fuel I have the fuel values right down and still it seems to be quite rich.
Problems to solve: -
Resets problem
Rich mixture
Oh well, no one said his would be easy did they !
Tim
After the high of the initial start, I noted at the time that the you can hear the steady tickover go lumpy all of a sudden. On the video I describe the fuel leaking out of the gasket between the manifold and the heads. It turned out this was due to the a tight valve clearance on No 1 and a piece of aluminium shavings wedged in the seat of No 2 Inlet valve ( I guess this was similar on No 1 , but fell out giving the tight clearance). Lucky for me I managed to recover the debris from off the valve seat using some double sided sticky tape on a screw driver blade !! Luck to have found this and fixed it I guess, unlucky that it happened !!
The Culprit
I reset the clearances, retested the compression and hey presto ! Back in business. And I have been paranoid about dropping stuff down an inlet too ! Always keeping ports stuffed with clean rag etc !! Oh well ! The fuel I had seen between the head and the manifold was the compression gasses being pushed back out past the inlet valve seat !!
With the manifolds tightened back down the runs this morning were straight away much better ! Time to continue with the tune !!
Fiddling with the base REQ Fuel levels today, I managed to get the idle stable (ish) with the odd glitch, which has turned out to be random resets of the ECU !! I will have to nail this before I go too much further. I'll take a careful look at the 12V at the ECU tomorrow. It may need a filter (Like they use on in car audio) perhaps it was not your soldering after all Gary !! This could take some tracking down !! The glitch mostly shows itself a fluctuation in the fuel pressure, taking a big dip as the as the pump relay clicks on and off !!
My other big worry is that the injectors seem to flow rather a lot of fuel I have the fuel values right down and still it seems to be quite rich.
Problems to solve: -
Resets problem
Rich mixture
Oh well, no one said his would be easy did they
!Tim
Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 9:57 pm
...ah the resets... what memories.
It knocks the ignition out as well, so doesn't make for a smooth idle
Glad you sorted the mechanical stuff! Now it's firmly back in your electrical domain.
It knocks the ignition out as well, so doesn't make for a smooth idle
Glad you sorted the mechanical stuff! Now it's firmly back in your electrical domain.
Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:58 pm
tim, could you use a 12v dc-dc power supply like i have in my car cmputer? this gives a stable 12v and also has some inteligence built into it re: shutdown timing, crank protection, etc..
not too expensive and might help to stabilise things a bit? m2-atx is what i have but there are a few others out there too (inc the older lower powered m1-atx) and also the pico-psu's if space is tight..
not too expensive and might help to stabilise things a bit? m2-atx is what i have but there are a few others out there too (inc the older lower powered m1-atx) and also the pico-psu's if space is tight..
Posted: Sat May 22, 2010 10:29 pm
I've fixed the resets, just changed the plugs to Resistor versions
W5DC becomes WR5DC, simple and the result...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUx-2657vxo
Much better I'm sure you'll all agree.
I now have the O2 sensor working on the RH bank, I'll fit one to the LH bank next. The readings are starting to make sense too, which is good
Please ignore the buzzing on the video, I stood the camera on the gas analyser, and also smoke, which should be less when I've got the mixture a bit closer.
Progress, and progress has to be good
Tim
W5DC becomes WR5DC, simple and the result...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUx-2657vxo
Much better I'm sure you'll all agree.
I now have the O2 sensor working on the RH bank, I'll fit one to the LH bank next. The readings are starting to make sense too, which is good
Please ignore the buzzing on the video, I stood the camera on the gas analyser, and also smoke, which should be less when I've got the mixture a bit closer.
Progress, and progress has to be good
Tim
Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 8:38 am
That's great Tim!
I spent yesterday stripping a Zenith cleaning the sand out...
Hopefully my old school version will run well again today!
I spent yesterday stripping a Zenith cleaning the sand out...
Hopefully my old school version will run well again today!
Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 9:03 pm
At last I am beginning to get this setup to play ball properly.
I initially had a problem with the W5DC spark plugs, being non-resistor ones, causing the ECU to sporadically reset, this means that the system isn't stable enough to tune. I remedied this by changing the spark plugs to WR5DC spark plugs. this instantly improved things immeasurably, and all 'Seemed" well. Yes, it was popping and banging, but driveable at least. I managed to get to the MOT station so couldn't be too bad !! I still couldn't get a steady O2 reading to be able to start to tune the damn thing though. No matter how much you tried to tweak the VE table, the O2 readings just randomly jumped up and down !!
It turns out the popping and banging was caused by one of the new WR5DC's being a dud !! I put some more in (NGK BPR7ES this time) and suddenly I have a more stable tickover and a Megasquirt that seems to respond to tuning in a logical manner ! Now I can start to tune it properly (After I take it for an MOT retest tomorrow !!)
New motto "Just 'cos its new doesn't mean its not faulty !"
Tim
I initially had a problem with the W5DC spark plugs, being non-resistor ones, causing the ECU to sporadically reset, this means that the system isn't stable enough to tune. I remedied this by changing the spark plugs to WR5DC spark plugs. this instantly improved things immeasurably, and all 'Seemed" well. Yes, it was popping and banging, but driveable at least. I managed to get to the MOT station so couldn't be too bad !! I still couldn't get a steady O2 reading to be able to start to tune the damn thing though. No matter how much you tried to tweak the VE table, the O2 readings just randomly jumped up and down !!
It turns out the popping and banging was caused by one of the new WR5DC's being a dud !! I put some more in (NGK BPR7ES this time) and suddenly I have a more stable tickover and a Megasquirt that seems to respond to tuning in a logical manner ! Now I can start to tune it properly (After I take it for an MOT retest tomorrow !!)
New motto "Just 'cos its new doesn't mean its not faulty !"
Tim