DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Hey Rich,
I plan to use a rubber/ plastic cover over the terminals as belt and braces. I doubt the battery could move as the base of the tray is bolted to the floor and then three M10 stud hold the top clamp down to it.

The handles are from Gary at Speedster clinic, as you know the originals use a a slotted web one side and a single screw the other. These use two screws near the barrel and then a single. There are gaskets and keys.

I was originally going to use a pair of 911 handles but would need to move the grp finger groove back about 30 to 40 mm. Also feel as the wide arches are so non-original everything else should be as original spec to keep the classic look right.

Happy Easter all,
Not a huge amount to report. I have sent my 4 Porsche 911 Targa gauges to Reap Automotive to modify;
• Chrome bezels
• Dial face to look like mid 50’s Porsche 356 using the same words/ font as 911.
• White needles
• Rivnut on back of case to allow a U shaped bracket to hold gauge in place behind the dash.
• Speedo set to zero.

Excited to see how they look when I pick them up in a few weeks.

Morning,
Finally finished fabricating / sealing around the engine to inner bulkhead. I fabricated using 2 mm aluminium plate around all the gaps front/back and down each side of the engine, then used a large gasket to seal against the tin ware. I also had to fill a large gap on each side where the engine bulk head did not meet the inner body (under the rear arch). Just need to paint everything black.





Deffo one of those jobs which is more function than form.

I can now move onto more exciting jobs, now only 43 major jobs listed

I had a real break today, after fitting the stainless pre-silencer looks like the standard exhaust will fit under/ around the body work I thought I was going to have to fabricate my own. Just great that I can use standard fitting parts and will save a load of time and dosh
So what's the best exhaust?

That's great news Greg. Like you said will save you £££'s having a custom one made.

Might be best to put a post in the 911 forum as which is best, to get a better response.

So managed to get into the man cave today. I re fitted the oil tank which took way to long and very fiddly! Does not help when Ralph is licking your face, better than chewing any tools laying around.

I also cut the inner skin of the engine cover away so it now fits





Need to create some sort of inner skin, not sure how yet.

I used thin ally sanded & spayed been fine

Afternoon,

Olly will give that a go to see what happens, don't think I will be able to bend the sheet to avoid the air cleaner etc

So no go on the 911R hinges, just could not get things to line up etc. I went down the Hebster mini hinge route. They look ok but really poor quality. Gasket don't fit, pin through hinge is too small allowing movement. Maybe I should have got the chrome version instead of the unpainted. I thought they would look best in body colour. Lid opens and shuts fine







Next need to make another engine lid stay and still need to fabricate a catch mech

Hi all,
Managed to get the hand brake cables and handbrake all re fitted over the last couple of days. Still needs a little bit of tweaking but looking goods to go so far.
Just a picture of a handbrake;



I have been looking at the mini hinges in more detail the drivers side seems to been have machined differently to the other so the angles as the engine lid lifts are different. Not sure what the solution is yet.

Well the MK1 Mini hinge issue is now resolved. The hinges would bind when lifting the engine lid, apparently when you buy a pair that's not what it means. You have to buy a left and a right as a pair as the machined angles are different. Spent hours looking for a left and right hinges as a pair to find these;



These were twice the price and still not great quality but I can work with them.

OK so the engine lid now opens without binding, great wide mouth. Shame Ralph managed to eat one of the hinge gaskets, so need to order another set

I have also foamed/ glass mat/ tissue the inside of the lid. When I cut the inner skin away it did not spring but needed some addition rigidity. Looks messy but is quite smooth to touch. At this stage the plan is to cover with heat resistant mat.

Hi Greg,

why you putting heat resistant mat on the underside of the lid? All the hot air will escape through the vents and grill.

Morning Rich,
I guess combination of function and form. The mat will protect the paint on the outside from any heat and hopefully look better than grp tissue. My wife said she would sew the edges with binding tape so it did not fry. The foam used would most likely stop any small heat transfer. I could use other fabrics/ products, any suggestions?

Ok, so new pads, discs, refurbished calipers, all looking good. Three more to do;

greg356a wrote:Morning Rich,
I guess combination of function and form. The mat will protect the paint on the outside from any heat and hopefully look better than grp tissue. My wife said she would sew the edges with binding tape so it did not fry. The foam used would most likely stop any small heat transfer. I could use other fabrics/ products, any suggestions?

Hi Greg.

Not sure what to suggest??

Not a fan of glue or self adhesive when around engine bay heat. I'm my experience it either drys the glue out or just soften's it up for it to fall down onto the engine causing more problems. Maybe run without and see how it goes??

Are the electrics all done now?