DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

That'd do it, maybe move the mike a little closer as well

I've a hunch the power this engine produces you'll be climbing the revs faster than ever before, and will still be looking for another gear change before the next corner.

Hope so.
Love a problem to overcome even if it irritates at time.
The box mods are done and there is no play in the shift couplings so all should be tight as can be.

Overall, the driver can negate these mods in a blink of an eye...

I just read a 7 year old thread of yours about rough running caused by dissolved insulating gaskets on the intake. Among the "what have I learnt" it did not say "keep carb cleaner away from plastics". That stuff will dissolve anything - keep it well away from anything you don't know it to not melt.

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Yes, that was a real teaser of a low point in my time with this engine.
The gaskets supplied in the gasket set perished during use ie petrol ingress and gaps appeared letting in a lot of air.

Using carb cleaner tracked it down, the engine note changed when spraying around all the joints.

I now make all the manifold gaskets by hand from gasket paper.

More hours poured into this engine, but good progress!

The chain sprockets needed aligning esp with new cams, and the alignment was miles out with shims where they were last time.
Frustratingly awkward to get all the dimensions accurately measured and sorted. Had to make a shim for the one side as I used all the others up. Having a lathe is a god send.

All done and with in the factory tolerance.

Then to the cam timing which again is a fiddle and lots of iterations to get to the 5mm timing dimension.
Then came doing the cam bolts to 84 lbft which is easier said than done
The cam restraining tool I made worked a dream and I just about had the pull to click on 84. Awkward with the engine balanced on the stand.

All done, so moved on to the chain tensioners and found the engine was missing some spacers to stop the idlers floating along their pivot shafts.
So, turned to the lathe and machined a pair and all is well, side play of 8 thou.

To feel better, added the cam covers!

So pleased to have all that behind me now, simple stuff next, but dreading all those RSR seals.

Soon be screaming Graham (the engine that is, hopefully not you)

How are you going to run the cams in without upsetting your neighbours??

On the rolling road.
The car is in fact very quiet, has to be to hillclimb.
Ususally runs 99 db at 4500 no load, Motorsport Regs apply.

It’s way quieter than most of the cars that go up the hill, must be room for some more ‘breathing’ even if it’s just for the spectators!

Always wondered what it would sound like 'open-piped', but hard to find anywhere to try that.
The whole of my village would revolt if I did such a thing at home!

The silencers are truly 2.5" dia straight through, you can see right down them when off the car.
Think I am banned from the garage this weekend by Mrs HC who has been patient with me in the garage for 2 days.

What’s the limit for your class on the hill?

IIRC 108 db.
Quite a bit more, but you run the risk of not running the weekend...

Prescott hill is hyper sensitive de to acute on-going probs and Loton Hill as you know is in the village!

Best to be a Good Boy.

911hillclimber wrote:On the rolling road.
The car is in fact very quiet, has to be to hillclimb.
Ususally runs 99 db at 4500 no load, Motorsport Regs apply.

So what this means is : You are not going to start the car before taking it to the rolling road ! . I admire your confidence (see - how to run in cams , and more specifically, what NOT to do)

Presumably it needs a good run in before you can do those wise open throttle max rev runs on the rolling Road?

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