Ducktailing it to the Targa

[23e Heure]

All this photography and the stopping for ice cream had put us behind schedule.

From Cefalu there were just 25 miles left to cover, taking us to the finish at the site of the old pits before Cerda.



Mike and Brendan were there already, watching the other competitors roll in...

(Brendan's photo)





Mike and Brendan found us, and we smuggled them into the final gala lunch and the awards ceremony, held at a local hotel:

(Brendan's photo)


Having paid no heed to any of the rules, and having lost a full 90 minutes on Sunday morning, circling Enna looking in vain for a checkpoint (which later we learned had actually been cancelled), Johnny and I have no idea how we did not finish dead last...

(Brendan's photo)


But we were not going to turn down the trophy they presented us with!

(Brendan's photo)


Wine flowed fast as we excitedly recounted our tales of the past few days apart:
Johnny and I wax-ing about the Giro, while Mike and Brendan recounted their attempts to lap the Piccolo Madonie, along with their success in visiting some significant Palermo locations.

(Brendan's photo)


Tomorrow was to be our last day and with both cars reunited the 4 of us had a packed schedule to look forward to...

[210bhp]

When I was about ten I stood looking at the barrier and the armed border guards before I plucked up the courage to ask (with my dads encouragement) if I could put one foot across the white line painted on the Tarmac. "Ok" came the reply, and that, up to last month was the only time I have ever set foot in Italy.
I was lucky, the sun was shining on the Cote d' Azure and the guards must have been in a good mood that day. I was lucky because dad hated the thought of flying and to his dying day I bet he had never been more than twelve feet above terra firma in his whole life. And so, in the 60's I was lucky enough to have several Contenental touring trips in various cars of the day with names long since lost to the motoring world. I never once remember being bored but with my head pressed forward towards the screen (no seat belts then and mum relegated to the back seat) I drank in all those many miles of new things to see. So, a long drive does not give me any concerns and when James said in 2006 "we must go to Sicily one day" I immediately said "Ok".

As James pointed out our reasons for contemplating such a trip were different but as the tour unfolded I began to appreciate his love for the island and the Targa Florio which, I must admit, I had very little knowledge of until now. My primary goal had always been to take my RS back to the place it was first sold, to drive some of the roads it may have covered then and perhaps to meet some early owners.

Time rolls on and ten years after first dreaming of the trip, forty three years after the RS was new and it was highly likely some of those owners might not be around any more. No matter, I had gradually become immersed in James's tales of the Targa Florio and knew there would be plenty to see and do anyway. He was concerned that three days away on the Giro event with Johnny would leave Brendan and I abandoned but I quickly assured him we would be fine exploring on our own. And we did.

And so it was, descending from the Gotthard Pass on our re-route through torrential rain in Belgium and Germany that I again set foot (wheels) in Italy for only the second time. We had a ferry to catch so there was no hanging about as we headed for Genoa via Lake Lugano and then the Milan ring road (Milan was the home to my RS for several years after export from Sicily in 1978). Genoa was busy but not as busy as the Palermo to come. Wow, what a bunch of crazy drivers in Palermo! (but as we were told later, you should try Naples, there the drivers are really crazy!). I've never concentrated so much in driving as I did that evening coming off the boat into Palermo City.


What I hadn't realised at the time, as I slipped into the busy traffic, was that it was the 1st of June, the exact date forty three years ago that my RS was invoiced from the factory for delivery to Palermo.

Regards
Mike

[majordad]

Only just found this thread as I thought it was about Targas, Silly me !!!

Most enjoyable, thanks for posting.

[Lightweight_911]

Excellent post Mike - reads like the start of one of Victoria Hislop's novels ...

[johnM]

Really makes me want to do this trip, I was telling "me Julie" about it last night.

One for the bucket list I think. Keep it coming guys.

[210bhp]

Before visiting a place for the first time you have images and expectations in your mind, the scenery, the smells, the people. Sicily, for me, conjured up a laid back exterior but with an undercurrent of mystery and secrecy in the darker world we would never be aware of as visitors. The Mafioso of Palermo are well known and long established as the real control of all matters financial and legal (or illegal).

It was with relief that James knew of the Agriturismo, a beautiful small farm tucked away in the hills well away from the all-seeing eyes of the big city surrounded by lemon and orange groves, olive trees, tall cypress hedges and a delightful cobbled courtyard. The interior of the farmhouse was a feast for the eyes with tasteful improvements subtly combined with artifacts and furniture from a previous era. Family heirlooms, I thought, carefully placed in every room. Old tiled floors, ancient colour washed walls, creaking window shutters combined with all the modern conveniences of en suite bathroom facilities and one of the best swimmings pools I've ever had the pleasure to plunge into. The food from the kitchen was delicious. Prepared by Mima who had not a single word of English (but she knew from the delight in our eyes that we were in heaven tasting her wares) and Subass, our waiter, kept the copious flow of red Sicilian wine (delicious) coming to our table until we could drink no more. After our long drive of the previous days it was easy to drift into a deep sleep on our first night in Sicily.

I highly recommend this place as a holiday destination if you like the 'get away from it all' type holiday where chilling out is the name of the game. I can see that batteries could be recharged here in no time. You will need a car though. It is well off the beaten track and to enjoy what Sicily has to offer away from this idyllic base camp you will need to get around.

Sicily is a big island. Far bigger than you imagine. Nearly 1000 kilometers round the coast road. I imagine several visits without seeing everything. It has scenery similar to rural Andalusia and at first glance a similar relaxed pace of life but there is something different here. In rural Spain you get the impression that everything IS forty years in the past and will remain so, never really caring about catching up with the rest of the world. It has a lazy 'manyana' feel. In Sicily the mountain villages are the same, but not whitewashed, the roads are equally inconsistent, the bars and cafes are also delightfully simple and friendly but there is a feeling that things COULD be better. Several Sicilians told me that the constraints of money (they are dead broke) is what keeps things the way they are. The will of the people is there to move on, but the control of finances is diverted away from what really might help into deep mysterious pockets. Things are so bad that two Mayors of tiny hillside villages have seen so many of the houses become abandoned through the passing of the older generation and the desertion of the younger generation that they have been repossessed and are for sale at 1 euro each to anyone prepared to help rebuild the community. Any nationality is welcome.

So, first impression, I like Sicily. It's been the crossroads of the Meditteranian for centuries and there is a wonderful mix of cultures, in the people, the architecture and the customs. The Sicilians have that daker olive skin of mixed Greek, Roman, North African, Spanish and Moorish heredity. Its an enchanting mix especially in the Sicilian women. I can see where Monica got her sultry looks.

Regards
Mike

[23e Heure]

Bellissimo, Mike... Come on then, keep channelling the Bradley ...

[210bhp]

A few pictures to go with the story so far. These are all fully credited to Brendan Mullan who was official navigator, photographer and conversationalist throughout the trip. Many thanks to him apart from the screams in the Palermo traffic.

Top of the Gotthard pass




How high we're we? Nearly seven thousand feet,



Regards
Mike

[yoda]

Really makes me want to do this trip, I was telling "me Julie" about it last night.

One for the bucket list I think. Keep it coming guys.

DDK on tour ....... Let's get it on!

[Tony]

Great post Mike, love the comparison, thoughtfully done

Tony

[210bhp]

So we entered the evening Palermo traffic in trepidation,



But it wasn't all bad news,



Regards
Mike

[210bhp]

Everyone has different tastes. I loved the vibe at the Agriturismo. From the wonderful feel of old Sicily inside with some pretty interesting artifacts,




The exterior was charming and full of colour



But with fantastic facilities in a few acres of hidden terraces orchards and garden.



What a wonderful place,

Regards
Mike

[210bhp]

Everyone was relaxed within hours of arriving,




Regards
Mike

[210bhp]

Breakfast was stunning every morning on the terrace. All produce home grown on the small estate.
Wonderful jams, honey, bread and stunning coffee, ohhhhhhhh the coffee, simply brilliant. What a way to set you up for the day.



Regards
Mike

[210bhp]

Ready for a days exploring




And then just outside the gates a wee taste of the drive to come for the day,



Regards
Mike