DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

I’ve done the steel to alloy sway on my car many years ago … can’t say I really noticed any difference either

They are lighter, but I’d imagine Porsche changed them as they were cheaper way to get a stiff arm rather than all the welding of the steel ones.

Yes, agree, lighter, but nothing else to add. Much the same as the alloy cast front cross member, touch of machining but non of the fabrication of the original.

Did mine in 1992, still have the rear steel ones....

Good progress Gary, and you are close to the engine/box going in which really will feel you have turned the corner which you will have!

It’s getting closer

Certainly all other tasks are on pause until the engine is in and fired up. I can’t find the oil tank strap at the moment but I’m sure it will show up!

I’m off to the Artic to do skids on a frozen lake this week so the car will have to wait for a few days

Gary71 wrote:They are lighter, but I’d imagine Porsche changed them as they were cheaper way to get a stiff arm rather than all the welding of the steel ones.

We changed to alloy arms on our hillclimb 911 10+ years ago, having seen photos of the positive rear camber generated during hard cornering (with 10" wide soft slicks!!) The difference was very noticeable and reassuring on fast bends like Crossing at Shelsley.

JW

Thanks for the information

I’m just going to post this so I then have to achieve…

I’m going to get the engine in and started this weekend.
.
.
There, I’ve said it

Job list to get there is long though…
can you tell I was bored on a plane this afternoon…?

Remove tie rods
Clean rack
Fit to x-member
Centre rack
Fit to car
Fit steering UJ
Route fuel pipe & connect at front
Disconnect pipes at rear
Change tank filter and blow through lines
Find heater outer cables and fit
Clean out breather pipes
Clean and fit oil tank - make gasket to body
Where is level sensor wiring?
Fit oil pipes and breathers - clean out
Clean & connect electrical board
Remove engine from cover
Clean outside
Remove flywheel & clutch
Change crank seal
Refit flywheel & clutch - inc centering
New crank bolts - check torque
Helicoil gearbox fixings
Clean box
Lubricate release sleeve and fork
Fit box to engine
Fit gearbox X-MBr
Double check fuel/brake/gearshift
Remove rear bumpers and rear panel
Fit engine/box.
connect gearshift and align
Connect fuel lines
Connect starter wiring
Fit accelerator control rod
Check accelerator action/travel
Connect oil pipes
Add oil
Build oil pressure on starter
Check for major leaks
Connect fuel pumps
Add fuel.
Run pumps without ignition
Check for leaks…
Start…

Disappear in cloud of blue smoke…

Bet all that cleaning will take ages!
Cold this weekend, so work fast to stay warm.

Gary71 wrote:
Where is level sensor wiring?

Disappear in cloud of blue smoke…

Part of the rear offside light cluster wiring.

Thanks, that’s why I’ve not found it yet as it’s still in a box!

Good luck Gary

On my first start during the last but one renovation it struggled to start because the ECU was still in the attic. Fuckwittery of the first order

Failed to start because the ECU was in the attic…
Classic

Well in two hours tonight the rack is rebuilt and in the car with new turbo tie rods and gaiters.
Fuel pipes all done up.

Then I got a bit stuck.

To start the engine it needs an oil system.
The oil system needs breather pipes. They are all in a terrible state so won’t be going back on.

You also need an oil tank and to fit the oil tank you need the strap…

One hour of searching boxes later it did not reveal itself so first thing tomorrow I’m going to empty the garage!

But I did find the latches for the 1/4 windows and the handbrake balance bar so I’ll take the small victory!

You forgot the bit on your list for looking back and appreciating the beauty of what you have achieved…..and a beer stop once in a while……

Today I’ll mainly be emptying the garage so I can find parts.

Then some plumbing!

Still not found the strap…

But my Eastern European hockey puck turned up