DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Run it without the cooler. Early cars (pre 69?) managed without. Just watch the temp gauge and don’t go to Qatar or anything.

If you fall in love with it then the £7k will feel worth spending.

Sam wrote: ↑Tue Oct 11, 2022 9:03 am If you fall in love with it then the £7k will feel worth spending.

Samantha is talking sense

Jason
Ref pipes, yes
In stock according to the google search I did last night

Bootsy wrote: ↑Tue Oct 11, 2022 9:29 am

Sam wrote: ↑Tue Oct 11, 2022 9:03 am If you fall in love with it then the £7k will feel worth spending.

Samantha is talking sense

He does that. And he's right. Again.

911hillclimber wrote:Jason
Ref pipes, yes
In stock according to the google search I did last night

Says not available on website and I’ve just emailed them and they don’t have them

On the basis of what Samantha says above, what would it cost to run a couple of external oil pipes. This would allow you to use the car as intended, whilst at the same time give you time to save some pennies to get it done properly

Alternatively you could just bodge it and use it till you saved enough, it’s been done before you know, somewhere.

markm wrote: ↑Tue Oct 11, 2022 10:37 am On the basis of what Samantha says above, what would it cost to run a couple of external oil pipes. This would allow you to use the car as intended, whilst at the same time give you time to save some pennies to get it done properly

Alternatively you could just bodge it and use it till you saved enough, it’s been done before you know, somewhere.

The simplest is just to run without a front cooler as described surely?

Couple of thoughts. Running external oil pipes, as suggested, requires two or three mounting brackets to be welded on behind the outer sill. So sill removal required and probably a new sill to reinstate.
Several suggestions to either soft solder, silver solder or braze a section of pipe as a repair. In all cases to make an effective repair the old pipes have to be very clean. It may be possible to clean the outside of the oil line but I can not see how the inside of the pipe will not sweep oil residue onto the soldered/ brazed joint being made.
Finally external oil lines are different in shape to internal sill lines so you are investing significant money in a non standard, for a 70S, oil line "solution".

especially as Canford sort of spring boarded into existance from DDK

A lot of us on here are business owners .. we all have to deal with problems and complaints from time to time. Deal with them right and youve got a customer for life who will tell everyone they can how they were looked after. Try to ignore the complaint, put your head in the sand or throw it back in their face and that sort of attitude and reputation soon gets around and you loose a lot more in the long run, especailly in a small pond

Jonny Hart wrote: ↑Fri Oct 22, 2021 8:30 am Rear mounted oil cooler on my SC. I used aeroquip push on hoses throughout.

https://youtu.be/ADuk4yl-X30

This remains the path of lease resistance (read cost) anwser from page 2... do this, get on the road, save your £££'s!

Nine One One wrote: ↑Mon Oct 10, 2022 2:46 pm To be honest, this is a £110k + car, I do not think Jason wants it ‘bodged’. Although all sensible ideas, it needs to be done properly front to back, as heavens knows what the state of the rest of the pipe is like. Remedying this portion, may well just put pressure on another part, that could give in the same way. Probably best to do it once, and do it right surely??

Totally agree. I'm sure the idea of gaffa taping over the hole is horrifying, but if I could spend £300 to drive my £110,000+ car when I would otherwise not be driving it, I probably would. Also, gaffa tape aside, a good professionally (silver) soldered joint wouldn't be a bodge, it'd be stronger than original. And that pipe already looks like copper in the photo and thick and in pretty good condition, whereas I assume the original would have been steel or brass, would it not? If you soldered it and it lasted a year, I'd bet my bottom dollar you wouldn't have to go back in there within another 25 years. I'll stick my neck out here - given the pipe is (soft) copper, I bet it has become damaged either by welding nearby or by abbrading against the jacking point. I think the rest of the pipe is unlikely to be corroded.

You could remove both pipes and all the body work that entails. Check both for pitting etc, and on the bench repair the cut one as you would have full access and control over the work. Pressure test.
Replace into the car fully and chop the chunk off the bill on parts you can't get.

Once you have got the whole thing apart, the availability of a new pipe is neither here nor there really. You can mend the old pipes or have new ones made from scratch.

Yep!

Boydyrs wrote: ↑Tue Oct 11, 2022 8:58 am
Jason I’m still very surprised/astounded that a company of Canford have not come forward and offered to rectify this error and thus lift there credentials further as a true passionate restorer especially on DDK.

I would have thought reputation would be first on list of any classic restorer. Such a shame as I’m sure this post will run for a long time.

Alan has not been back on DDK since I posted this thread at the end of last year and I believe has not renewed Canford Classic's DDK forum sponsorship this year either by the looks of it....

Read into that what you wish I guess?