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Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 10:46 pm
by Cortina
Reminds me of a "modification" I did to my MFI system.

Small (hidden) micro switch interrupting power to fuel enrichment solenoid.
a) with engine cold , and switch off .... it ain't going to start ! (simple , effective, anti theft device)
b) If it does get accidentally flooded ... switch off , full throttle (lots of air) ... and it starts (release throttle very quickly !!)
c) If you are "playing" like you were ... switch off and avoid the excess fuel problem.

cheers :)

Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 11:01 pm
by MT
Now that sounds to me like a bloody good idea - thanks.

Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 11:31 pm
by hot66
Good to,see you got to the root of the starting problem.

My engine is pretty sensitive to restarts and the enrichment when cold .... As an emergency when it won't start due to flooding I've just pulled the wire off the solonoid

Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 9:19 pm
by MT
As I said above my next steps were to reconnect everything for a full engine installation - clutch, accelerator, driveshafts etc and to re-install one at a time all the things I had changed while 'searching for Spark'.
The first bit went well and after the 'Great Storm of 2013', which was thankfully kind to my neighbourhood, if not so for some poor unfortunate folk not too far away, AMR made her first move under her own steam for a few years - out into the breezy sunshine.

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Fitted the front and rear lenses now I know the lights and indicators function, and it was also time for a bit of 'Birtwhistle Bling'

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Just test-fitted as there's a bit of polishing yet to be done to get rid of all the stray glue, grease and oily finger-marks. My sincere thanks to Mike (210bhp) for a great job bringing a ropey old orange bar badge I acquired back from the dead and into the perfect bit of frontal adornment. Just the right bit of patina as requested.

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Also clearly the stance needs a bit of tweaking - a bit up at the front and down at the rear I think.

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Also fitted the battery - Odyssey 1200 - after a couple of trials I decided to fit it on its side. It will fit vertically but the +ve terminal is very close to the inner wing, so I thought this way was safer.

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One of my 'change-backs' that didn't work was the re-fitting of the Pertronix. I had a Ignitor 2 91867A fitted (as this is a clockwise 2.7RS distributor (0 231 184 004) by Neil when he refurbished it and checked the advance curve), but reinstalling it resulted in a 'no-start situation'. Also examining the module, the front face is damaged/scraggy (see below) so I wonder if that's why it doesn't work. I have contacted Pertronix and we'll see what their response is.

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So back in with the points for now - possibly for good.

Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 11:11 pm
by shoestring7
38 degrees........? ;-)

>C

Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:00 am
by MT
shoestring7 wrote:38 degrees........? ;-)

>C

Yeah, yeah, Charles, perhaps 38 degrees (actually checking my notes I used 36 deg) does seem to have been too much angle of dangle on the rear spring plates, but 21 degrees (or whatever you used) I still think will be a little on the drag racer side! After all your shell w/o an engine looks like mine with one in! Time will tell... :)

Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:06 am
by MT
hot66 wrote:Good to,see you got to the root of the starting problem.

My engine is pretty sensitive to restarts and the enrichment when cold .... As an emergency when it won't start due to flooding I've just pulled the wire off the solonoid
Thanks James

Another method I've now found works is to pull the relay for the cold start out. I think it will be easier than pulling the wire to the solenoid given the latter's location. It's the small round black one on the rear of the engine board. Nothing else is affected.

I do like the switch idea though and I'm thinking through where best to locate it.

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Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 10:20 am
by 210bhp
I have an insulating cover over the top of the battery terminal to insulate it from the battery box.
I'm just not sure (on that kind of battery) if lying on its side will affect performance or longevity.

I see that the badge needs a little more curve on it. That will have to be done very gently.

I was having a discussion with another DDKer about mounting the badge. The speed nuts should not be rammed home firmly when it comes to final fit. They are not bolts. They are only meant to 'hold' the badge in place and not 'secure' it.

In the interests of accuracy it is Birtwistle bling and not Birtwhistle bling.

Car is looking great.

Regards
Mike

Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 10:40 am
by Lightweight_911
210bhp wrote: I'm just not sure (on that kind of battery) if lying on its side will affect performance or longevity.

Mike
Odyssey batteries are designed to work in an upright position or on their side ...

Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:29 pm
by 210bhp
Lightweight_911 wrote:
210bhp wrote: I'm just not sure (on that kind of battery) if lying on its side will affect performance or longevity.

Mike
Odyssey batteries are designed to work in an upright position or on their side ...

I think you can therefore guess I don't have one Andy!

Thanks for the info.

Regards
Mike

Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:57 pm
by shoestring7
MT wrote:
shoestring7 wrote:38 degrees........? ;-)

>C

Yeah, yeah, Charles, perhaps 38 degrees (actually checking my notes I used 36 deg) does seem to have been too much angle of dangle on the rear spring plates, but 21 degrees (or whatever you used) I still think will be a little on the drag racer side! After all your shell w/o an engine looks like mine with one in! Time will tell... :)
Mick,

I'm loving the Baja buggy look you're going with.

This is the calculator I used but I've no idea if its reliable or not: http://www.rennlight.com/cgi-bin/spring.cgi

Charles

Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 7:40 pm
by MT
210bhp wrote:I
I see that the badge needs a little more curve on it. That will have to be done very gently.

In the interests of accuracy it is Birtwistle bling and not Birtwhistle bling.

Car is looking great.

Regards
Mike
In order Mike…..

1. Not sure it does need any more curve. I literally just eased the badge pins into the holes for the picture - I didn't push them home, or fit a seal (as you can see). At the time I thought "This is going to fit really well".
2. Sorry :oops:
3. Thanks - I think so too.

Really pleased with the badge.

Mick

Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:07 pm
by 210bhp
Glad you are pleased Mick. I enjoyed doing that one. It goes really well with the tangerine bodywork.

Car is yet another big credit to you and your skills.

Let me know if you come up with a very neat, hidden outcome to the isolator switch. Probably best by pm as it would otherwise be broadcasting one of the very reasons for having it!

Regards
Mike

Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 11:55 am
by MT
Nearly there…..

Car all reassembled with all the correct bits re-inserted apart from the Pertronix which is on its way back to the US for their tech people to tell me:

1. It works fine, why did you send it to us?
2. It's knackered, but it is clearly because you messed something up during installation and testing, so no replacement. 'Would you like it back, sir? If so p&p will be 25$…."
3. It's knackered and they'd be delighted to replace it FOC.

Betfair have in-play betting on this, with most money to date going on 2, with 1 a poor second and 3 only getting money from my mother.

Lining up for a bit of testing over the next few days and then an MoT.
I have a few minor oil leaks, and very high oil pressure when cold on the dash gauge (like 8-10bar when cold, dropping back when it warms). I have a separate WIKA gauge that I'll use as a cross check and see what it actually is then go from there. Also alternator light sometimes takes a while to go out, so the alternator or regulator might need attention. All part of building the worklist for the winter engine out and refurb/rebuild.

But in the autumn morning sunshine with its little sister it looks the business, don't you think….?

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Re: 2.4E From IKEA to Blut Orange

Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 12:10 pm
by Darren65
MT wrote:Also fitted the battery - Odyssey 1200 - after a couple of trials I decided to fit it on its side. It will fit vertically but the +ve terminal is very close to the inner wing, so I thought this way was safer.
Just for reference…..there's a small rubber cap that fits over the positive clamp available from Porsche, part number 901 611 313 00, £2.88 + VAT each.

Great progress Mick and nice looking collection 8)