DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

I did the same with all of mine, including the door hinges after Barry had done all his good work.

They now have a little hole after paint, but let’s call it character!

Hi there,
Did you leave the inner part of the hinge attached to the body and take out the pins to get the door off?
I tried knocking the pins out but struggled.
Thanks

Richard

rich73 wrote:Hi there,
Did you leave the inner part of the hinge attached to the body and take out the pins to get the door off?
I tried knocking the pins out but struggled.
Thanks

Richard

They all came off at some point, but yes getting the pins out first time was fun.

I made an attachment for a slide hammer that hooked over the pin to minimise the risk of damaging the paint.

I left the job of putting the pins back in after paint to the bodyshop. They used the old ones by mistake rather than the shiny new ones I’d bought so the old ones are staying in!

Gary71 wrote:I did the same with all of mine, including the door hinges after Barry had done all his good work.

I was too chicken to drill through the door hinges. I'm assuming that my doors will be on and already in the perfect position for the future paint job - is that the correct assumption - I suppose it must be if the door bolts need to be painted? Am assuming front wings off for paint to give access to the areas around the front end of the fitted doors (wing supports, door fronts, hinge/door posts and sills)....

I did it as it was all bare metal as I’d had everything apart. Barry’s advice was ‘one quick coat of primer and no more’ to maintain the work he’d put into the gaps. So that’s what they got, one hinge at a time keeping the other one bolted on and using the skin pin to line it back up again.

He used a variety of controlled violence to achieve the gaps, particularly on the RH door which I’d changed for a 993 one and that certainly didn’t go in the same hole as the one that came off!

I’m not sure after a major rebuild you’d get away with not moving the hinges as they are a key tool on the alignment game

Thanks for the slide hammer info Gary, just seen that you can buy a Porsche specific one... £££, so it looks like I'll be making one too.

https://www.aasesales.com/products/d2l-b52-189i-116012

Gary71 wrote:I did it as it was all bare metal as I’d had everything apart. Barry’s advice was ‘one quick coat of primer and no more’ to maintain the work he’d put into the gaps. So that’s what they got, one hinge at a time keeping the other one bolted on and using the skin pin to line it back up again.

He used a variety of controlled violence to achieve the gaps, particularly on the RH door which I’d changed for a 993 one and that certainly didn’t go in the same hole as the one that came off!

I’m not sure after a major rebuild you’d get away with not moving the hinges as they are a key tool on the alignment game

Thanks Gary, mine had the Barry controlled violence treatment too, to position and gap new front wings and original doors and bonnet to the original rear quarters and existing sills - but that was prior to it going on a proper jig. After that, we decided (or rather Barry suggested and I decided) to replace the sills and rear quarters. These were all a pig to fit but as of this week its all self-tappered together with panels now in the optimum off-the-jig positions, with the new rear quarters/wings in the same position as the original ones (they both put up a hell of a fight!!), and with approx 3.5mm gaps everywhere. The plan is to do final positioning and gapping on a proper jig, after we find out whether it is straight or not !!

Small edit: I was considering whether there could be a case for checking the gaps with the car on its wheels (mine has full suspension on, just wheels removed) - does anyone know if the gaps will change, after welding all panels in final positions, when it goes back on its wheels?

Sounds good Its such a game to get it right. And of course we are talking about ‘right’ being better than the factory ever achieved.

deano wrote:

Gary71 wrote:I did it as it was all bare metal as I’d had everything apart. Barry’s advice was ‘one quick coat of primer and no more’ to maintain the work he’d put into the gaps. So that’s what they got, one hinge at a time keeping the other one bolted on and using the skin pin to line it back up again.

He used a variety of controlled violence to achieve the gaps, particularly on the RH door which I’d changed for a 993 one and that certainly didn’t go in the same hole as the one that came off!

I’m not sure after a major rebuild you’d get away with not moving the hinges as they are a key tool on the alignment game

Thanks Gary, mine had the Barry controlled violence treatment too, to position and gap new front wings and original doors and bonnet to the original rear quarters and existing sills - but that was prior to it going on a proper jig. After that, we decided (or rather Barry suggested and I decided) to replace the sills and rear quarters. These were all a pig to fit but as of this week its all self-tappered together with panels now in the optimum off-the-jig positions, with the new rear quarters/wings in the same position as the original ones (they both put up a hell of a fight!!), and with approx 3.5mm gaps everywhere. The plan is to do final positioning and gapping on a proper jig, after we find out whether it is straight or not !!

Small edit: I was considering whether there could be a case for checking the gaps with the car on its wheels (mine has full suspension on, just wheels removed) - does anyone know if the gaps will change, after welding all panels in final positions, when it goes back on its wheels?

Well, the panels will move to some extent after welding.Some distortion is inevitable,which is why you have to dress welds when welding thin panels

More trim hammering and bending tonight, the other rear 1/4 took half the time, the front about 2 hours with some careful support from my Son holding it off the paint whilst I bent it.

Once clamped on it pulled in well despite revealing my bumper isn’t entirely straight!

Once I’ve done a few jobs underneath the bumper with earth points for the lights etc I can start the fun of balancing and gluing the seals in place.

Bumper on, rubbers cut in, looks about right!!

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Looks more than 'alright' Gary - looks wonderful !!

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Thanks Andy, just waiting on an M4 helicoil kit (hopefully tomorrow) and some new stainless screws so I can repair the light housings and finally button up that front end.

If it’s not raining tomorrow I’m going to push it outside and spin it around before taking it off the trolley and putting it up on stands.

That should give me space to work on the rear end and ultimately get the engine in…

Lightweight_911 wrote:.

Looks more than 'alright' Gary - looks wonderful !!

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Sure does! Real inspiration and example of how do it properly right there!