DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Perfect timing from Amazon with the weld-through paint, and more importantly some cardboard for templating the repair piece.



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The crossmember really is in mint condition. Look away now if you like everything like original because while I have access to the top I'm going to clean that lovely beige surface up and repaint it in the black I have to hand.


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Luck boy!

That's the side panel made for the new seat to mount to.

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Cleaned up and painted.

I tacked the straps for the loom on to the underside of the seat before fitting, rather than do them later from under the car.


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This is a minimal replacement back seat from Karmann Konnection. It was a really good fit and I recommend it for anyone with a similar problem.

There were a couple of spots where I wished it was a touch bigger but I'll have to patch those later.

Note the dark brown is carpet glue on top of the original paint, not rust.



EDIT: Here's where I later patched where the panel didn't reach: viewtopic.php?p=675094#p675094



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The only part I didn't butt weld was the front edge where it folds over. I'll need some kind of seam sealant.

I covered everything in weld-through zinc spray beforehand, but in truth it did spit quite a lot so I'm not sure how conductive the paint is.

I probably had the welder up a bit high because I've a feeling the wire's a bit thicker than is appropriate for this job. There two spots where the metal I was welding to was too thin.


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I tidied it up with the grinder, another coat of primer and painted. I've not got the welds invisible. I prefer the extra strength of a thicker weld. Also, maybe I want to see where a 50 year old car has had a repair and what's original.


I removed all the padding and insulation from the parcel shelf, which was completely sodden. About 10% of it's rusty - I haven't investigated how deep it goes yet.

I should probably add I think fitting this seat is probably a fairly tricky job. It's essential to make sure the curve you cut at the top edge of the car is precisely the same length as the top edge of the repair panel. I moved around welding so as not to allow too much heat to build up in any one place and cause distortion, but as I approached the last section it became apparent the car edge was about 5mm longer than the panel edge. Thankfully, a little percussive persuasion convinced the new piece to comply.

This 901 side cover I bought from the USA is wrong for my car so I'll probably take it to the swap meet. It looks like there aren't many of the 1970 version around because of their propensity to erode the clutch cable hoop.

I understand this would fit but it takes the earlier diff bearing and I can see the hoop would be at a slight angle compared with how it's meant to be.

I have the upgraded trunnion coming so I may have to make a flange to attach to mine, to accommodate it and tighten up all the clutch mechanism.


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The press studs in this replacement tool roll were completely rusted and disintegrating so I got some dies and punched new rivets in.

I might wrap with cord and not use them but they at least cover the holes.



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RobFrost wrote:I tidied it up with the grinder, another coat of primer and painted. I've not got the welds invisible. I prefer the extra strength of a thicker weld. Also, maybe I want to see where a 50 year old car has had a repair and what's original.


I removed all the padding and insulation from the parcel shelf, which was completely sodden. About 10% of it's rusty - I haven't investigated how deep it goes yet.

Looking good, recently did my seat bases but haven't got them painted yet. Still putting off the seat backs for now.
Rich

I finally received a diagnosis for the lack of horn I have been experiencing. The switch was originally defective, which I already overhauled previously with a good clean up and a new rubber spring inside the steering wheel, so I was satisfied that already worked. The car has one Bosch horn under each front wing, which I removed and put across the battery to confirm they work. This actually surprised me, as I assumed they were the problem and the plan for today's little session was to disassemble, clean, de-rust and lubricate. So on finding they work, attention moved on to the wiring and relay.

Infinite resistance across pins 30 and 87a indicates the relay is broken. I already had one for the tool kit so I popped that in the car and put another on order - giving me a very pleasing horn.

Despite it all working, I couldn't help myself but open it all up for a good de-rust, paint and clean. The horns are held together with six screws around the perimeter which were siezed. I think I was lucky to pop each one off without stripping a single one, bearing down with all my strength - every one have been on the verge of shearing at the moment it cracked loose. Clearly there had been some water ingress - which I cleared up with the spinning wire brush, but forgot to get an *after* photo.