DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Close inspection of the caliper showed no issue, but the hub and disk were loose



I don't think the hub bolts are supposed to be bent like this, so I can only assume I didn't torque them up properly.


Bendy bolts removed


New hardware delivered


All torqued up. The instructions do not say I should ad thread locker, but I did that regardless.


Preparing to remount the hub


All remounted. I also took the RHS apart and rebuilt it, just in case. It seemed ok though.

After all the suspension rebuilt, I wanted to get everything set up properly, so I booked a day at Center of Gravity. The change was like night and day. I was there from 8:30am until 7:00pm. Best £1000 I've spent on my car. Very highly recommended, and very far from a 4 wheel alignment.






The weight at 1034kg includes all the stuff that I normally carry in the front (toolkit, jack, warning triangle, oil, etc) and the spare tyre and half a tank of fuel. One of the observations was that my front 5mm wheel shims (required for 7R wheels) allowed the front wheels to be slightly out of balance as there was a lot of movement in them. Also a mix of steel and aluminium wheel nuts made the problem worse. There is also wear in by steering rack.

So, I'm replacing the steel nuts and spacer


Very bling Porsche magnesium nuts (the aluminium nuts are actually made of magnesium)


Changing the nuts, spacer and removing the tools, etc from the front, saves me 9.2kg..... 24.8kg to find to get under 1000kg! Putting the aluminium engine lid back in instead of the ducktail will probably do about 1/2 that.

So, onto this winter's projects, starting with a steering rack refurb:


To get this out requires the suspension cross member to be removed, so I will be going back to CoG for a 1/2 day reset once i'm done.


When I removed the floor pan, I noticed a few drops of brake fluid on the pan. Its coming from to top of the brake cylinder.



Not sure if this can be serviced, or if I need to buy a new one.


One of my other jobs is to get this fixed, which was my own fault for driving into my garage wall. Father Christmas bought my some rubber stops which I will bolt to the garage floor, so I don't do it again. Unfortunately the paintless repair man who was recommended to me didn't think he could repair this, so it will need to go to OSC in Chessington to be done properly.

I was going to refurbish my steering rack myself, but in the end I decided to get it done professionally. I called quite a few of the independent Porsche garages close to me, but none seemed to be interested. I was referred on to Western Power Steering who also no longer do them, and another company in Cornwall who have ceased trading. However, ProPower Steering in Lakeside were happy to do it. They replaced the bearings, bushing and tarted it up. Just need to refit it once I've fixed my brake cylinder leak.

Lots of good work. I must admit Im a bit surprised that a mix of aluminium (according to Susan Dent we used to say it the silly American way) and steel bolts was causing wheel movements?

Anyway the car must handle very nicely now. With the master cylinder maybe you can thread lock all the pipes but if a pain to get to replace?

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PMNorris wrote: ↑Thu Dec 26, 2024 5:30 pm........so I booked a day at Center of Gravity. The change was like night and day. ........Very highly recommended, and very far from a 4 wheel alignment.....

....totally agree

Car looking great, hopefully a dry January has got you to that ideal weight!

neilbardsley wrote: ↑Sun Jan 26, 2025 3:39 pm Lots of good work.

With the master cylinder maybe you can thread lock all the pipes but if a pain to get to replace?

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???? You realise with the thread lock you stand a chance of contaminating the fluid, probably gluing the threaded flanges to the brake pipes themselves, and dependant on the loctite used, having to heat the connections to break its seal, if used.............boiling the fluid in the brake lines in the process!

Master cylinder leak is most likely from the feed pipes not the brake unions. The feed pipes are just a push fit into those rubber grommets, which may have perished. Try replacing those first


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DustyM wrote: ↑Sat Feb 01, 2025 7:49 am Master cylinder leak is most likely from the feed pipes not the brake unions. The feed pipes are just a push fit into those rubber grommets, which may have perished. Try replacing those first


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That's what I thought too, so job done now. I had to remove the brake master cylinder to do it, but job done now. Just waiting for a new part to arrive before I bolt the car back together and get it back on the road.