DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

markm wrote:

964RS wrote:He said he suspected his advice would be to do the same as they did last time….

Doesn't the repair originally done in 2019 come with any sort of warranty. Surely if the repair done then hasn't worked, why would you do the same thing again.

The rubber hose repair wasn’t done for me Mark was previous owner and I wasn’t part of that.

There’s not much point sending the car the full length of the country to be looked at now Alan as I said as it would have to be trailered all the way and I know what the issue is…

Sorting it is what I need to do, hence gathering some knowledge/advice here.

Appreciate the responses so far guys been some useful info

Some sort of plumbing fitting - compression or solder has to be better than jubilee clips - but to be fair I’m not familiar with the space you have to work in

sladey wrote:Some sort of plumbing fitting - compression or solder has to be better than jubilee clips - but to be fair I’m not familiar with the space you have to work in

I’ll let you have a look next time I see you Mark. The sills need to be cut off again to gain full access. At the moment there is only the hole in the pics you can see.

Once inside the sill it will be easier to determine best way to fix. It’s just it takes some major work just to get to that point in the first place….

PeterK wrote:If you can get the pipe completely clean, then cut the pipe at the hole and rejoin using a 22mm copper pipe coupling can be soldered in. As a temporary measure, use a 22mm compression fitting. That’s what I’ve done as a temporary fix.

If it’s a longer split, the cut out the damaged section and use a length of 22mm copper pipe.

If the pipe is 22mm this seems the easiest solution and with compression fittings you can do it yourself and at least make it drivable although I would have a large container ready for the spill which may only be what is in the pipe as the thermostat should isolate the oil tank I assume.
I know the pipes are hidden on yours but could they not be abandoned and pipes run on the outside like later cars like mine.

Come to the autojumble in a different car.
iirc that the pipes make quite a journey through the sill/bowl etc and to the DS tank and would need the lower half of the rear wing cutting out to put a new tube in and a new bowl.
The factory must have put the pipes into the shell while welding it all up?

There are diagrams of the 3 external systems in the Bruce Anderson book, pages 59/60

Some pics of mine here, which might be useful:
https://www.safetycolours.com/porsche-9 ... -oil-pipes

Thanks they help a lot

https://www.early911sregistry.org/forum ... ipe+repair

Regards
Mike

Not what u want to hear ,mine rhd,it turned out cheaper to buy originals from Freisinger than bugger abt, but at that time car was in bits ………

jb wrote:

PeterK wrote:If you can get the pipe completely clean, then cut the pipe at the hole and rejoin using a 22mm copper pipe coupling can be soldered in. As a temporary measure, use a 22mm compression fitting. That’s what I’ve done as a temporary fix.

If it’s a longer split, the cut out the damaged section and use a length of 22mm copper pipe.

If the pipe is 22mm this seems the easiest solution and with compression fittings you can do it yourself and at least make it drivable although I would have a large container ready for the spill which may only be what is in the pipe as the thermostat should isolate the oil tank I assume.
I know the pipes are hidden on yours but could they not be abandoned and pipes run on the outside like later cars like mine.

I thought about suggesting running something new, with unions made up onto flexi 3/4” rubber hose from Pirtek etc, but the car is simply too nice to run them down the outside. I ran some down inside the heater pipe channels in my 914 years ago but was only able to do this because they weren’t in use, so that is no good either.

The only other temporary repair I can think of is to buy a small ally oil cooler and make a bracket to mount off of something at the side of the gearbox, low down so it gets air. Then have two new lines made up to connect to it, bypassing the whole front set up. Someone said early on you could just bypass the whole lot, but at least this would give you a cooler, albeit less efficient until you can pluck up the courage to cut open the sill. It would just need a bit of fabrication to make a mount that doesn’t involve drilling any holes in such a pretty car, and would be invisible to anyone bar the MOT man…

Rear mounted oil cooler on my SC. I used aeroquip push on hoses throughout.

https://youtu.be/ADuk4yl-X30

That’s exactly the sort of thing I meant Jonny. I did similar, again with a Mocal stat like yours on the 914, to the side of the gearbox and in front of the rear silencer (obvs a bit more room on a 914). My motivation was removing the weight of all the oil and lines going to the front by keeping everything shorter.

Looking at the pictures that ‘inaglasshouse’ supplied the pipework runs in several places that are really going to be inaccessible without major work.

Not sure how the internal diameter of the pipework would effect cooling or pressure in the system, as such, bearing in mind once the oil warms up it will flow very quickly.

If this piece of pipe has gone, do you know the quality of the rest of it?

Is it worth looking at threading through a smaller diameter piece of aeroquip hose through the system to place a new pipe, as it were inside the old, and find the correct fixings to marry up with the other connections to the oil cooler and thermostat? (https://hydraquip.co.uk/hose-hydraulics ... /aeroquip/).

Failing that, not what you want to hear, but what about running new pipes inside the car, which will be concealed by the carpet?

There is no easy fix, if you want to keep originality and you must be well peeved off at present.

Th!e only way to do it is to remove the sill part of the B post and part of the rear quarter and replace the pipe as necessary I know its a big job but you are never going to be happy unless its right!

Berny wrote:Th!e only way to do it is to remove the sill part of the B post and part of the rear quarter and replace the pipe as necessary I know its a big job but you are never going to be happy unless its right!

I would agree. Do it once (or twice) and do it right.