DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Just as a note:

I spot welded the 2 x sides of the floor replacements in, the floor sections to the inner sill, the outer sill to floor and inner sill (top where the door alum strips install) the rear outer wings to the B post and the C /engine bay/inner wings.
Additionally, repairs to the lower area of the front inner wings, some welds to the front suspension pan ('tank support')

I did not need to replace the parcel shelf.

The spot welder will not do everything, but will do most. Getting the spot welder time setting is tricky to ensure a good through weld, a plug weld is far more reliable in this aspect but can need a lot more grinding to 'loose' the weld head.
You must have already read the recent posts on Gary's thread on his current re-working of his shell?

Just seen Gary's reply.

The hired welder I had (in '89) the arms were 18" long and straight / cranked, and 8" and 3". It was superb if heavy to use. There was no timer.

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead ... KUB&adurl=

Gary71 wrote:Not saying this is the right way but I did upstand panel to shelf, then to body. Everything self tapped together first though.

The floor was originally spot welded but the small thing you can hire won’t reach that far in so plug welding is the way forward.

Hey Gary - I was thinking about this flange here in my photo - could that not be a good candidate for the spot welder?

best,
Rus

Ah, yes that ones fine

Thanks guys this helps. What may set my work apart from lots of the other projects here, besides an abject lack of metal working skill, is that I'm trying to keep most of the paint in place and do not have the car on a rotisserie. I have a good amount of experience with plug welds from my Alfa and would greatly prefer to avoid them when working on the underside of the car / in proximity to paint. I think my strategy my be to go with an inexpensive 240v spot welder and save a budget for specialty tongs if needed...https://www.harborfreight.com/240-volt- ... 61206.html

Without a doubt I'll be plug welding on this project but maybe less than I otherwise would.

On that score - has anyone gone plug welds with Silicone Bronze wire on the MIG? I switched over to SilBronze toweards the end of my metalwork on the Alfa and like it greatly for its lower temps, ease of grinding, and convenient "tell" when you hit steel. I know the common wisdom with SilBronze is that you don't melt the host metal but in reality, with thin panels you surely can if needed. I did some destructive testing and found it to be entirely acceptable.

Hi crew. I took some time to focus on my Alfa, resealed the motor on the E30 and now I'm coming back for some 912 metal work. I removed a good deal of awfully repaired panels in preparation for the new panels from RD. As is the way with these projects, removing one element reveals another. The inner wings (correct phrase?) need work, which can of course be patched but I'm wondering if a source exists. Surely this is a common spot needing work?

Rus, can we get some close-ups?

John I'm still learning this website - do you or anyone know how to post pics larger than 700 pixels?

Happy to deliver pics of the carnage. Silver lining to previous owners "metal work": when repair panels are structurally bondo'd to rust they are easier to remove.

Metal Masters:

It's been a while since I've formed curved patches. Last time I used a combination of bending on my extremely not so good brake and using the car itself to form the curvature of the patch. As you can see I'm getting ready to make a patch here. I don't have access or skills to use an English wheel or anything like that but would appreciate any tips from those more skilled than I as to how best to form patches like this.

Thanks