DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

can you not drop the trailing arms with the drive shafts still attached? or is that a major PITA on a 911?

Yes it is

Probably easier to undo the driveshafts at the wheel end - don't know how big a job this is on your model but most of the stuff is fairly easy to get at. The other end of the trailing arms is a nightmare to get at

Cut the heads off the cv bolts, pry the cv joint away from the gear box and cut the bolts using a 1mm disc in your grinder. The little stubs will come out easily afterwards. My 914 had been butchered by someone not knowing they were originally torx and using the wrong tool.

Thanks all
Busy for the moment, but planning to be back on it next Friday, and lots of things to try.
Peter

+1 to going back to the CV joint bolts, ive never been defeated in what must be over 100 engine and box pulls.

The options to get them out, as you have allready tried, but perhaps try again :

A) Cold Freeze Release Spray, i use a lot of it, a few attempts and a bit of heat, perhaps alternating cold and hot (but let it cool down a little before hitting it again with the release spray, as it can ignite). Use cold/heat and i have almost always managed to get any fasteners apart without a problem, you will also need to :

B) Hammer in a larger spline (and breaker bar on an extention for torque, with the wheels off and the nuts back on, you can lock the axle (or use the handbrake)

C) Mole grips, better mole grips (with cold/heat)

D) as above post, cut the heads off, pry off and cut the stubs, but i have never had to do that.

For pulling the engine/box, use two people, don't do it on your own it is heavy, and worth say £10k-£20k depending on condition/matching numbers, etc so get a friend or two!

for the SC, dont forget the electrical connection for the speedo by the gear coupling, and take the coupling off the gear linkage (I think you have allready), put it into gear, so the rod coming out of the box is at its shortest, and try not to catch it in the hole in the body when you take it out.

If your doing it on the floor, take the rear bumper off, its easier.

You can use a 4 wheel house moving dolly under the engine/heat exchangers, with the jack placed just a bit more towards the front than the middle of the case

and good luck, satisfying when its out and back in.

jackstowers wrote:My 914 had been butchered by someone not knowing they were originally torx and using the wrong tool.

Torx, what Torx? Not on any Porsche I know of. The 914 CV joint bolts generally use the tri-square (12-point) bolts.

Also know as "XZN" bolts.

Ok pedants!! Gimme a break! The 12 point star shaped bits that no ordinary tool box contains resulting in various other bits being used rendering the heads unuseable.
Changed all mine for Allen key bolts for ease of tool location etc

I have removed worn out hex/Allen key bolts by tapping in the relevant 'slightly larger' torx socket, if the torxsocket is of sufficient quality it will usually be fine, just make sure it is hit in far enough to make decent contact with the Allen bolt.

I found a good habit to get into with the Allen headed bolts is tap the Allen key socket in until the sound changes, then you know it is making full contact and not just in a couple of mm.

Just mindless ramblings of someone who has had their fair share of skinned knuckles!

It is definatley easier to separate the engine and box on the floor.

Hope this helps?

davep wrote:

jackstowers wrote:My 914 had been butchered by someone not knowing they were originally torx and using the wrong tool.

Torx, what Torx? Not on any Porsche I know of. The 914 CV joint bolts generally use the tri-square (12-point) bolts.

The 12 point female bolt heads are known as 'spline' drive, I believe. used extensively on new VAG stuff.

Most modern stuff uses the Torx headed bolts instead of the older spline socket head bolts. The Torx design can handle a higher torque load. However, they look similar at first glance.

Although I just remembered I did need to buy a new M14 XZN (spline) bit last year for the VAG strut pitch bolt so they do have both in current use.

Jonnysc wrote:I have removed worn out hex/Allen key bolts by tapping in the relevant 'slightly larger' torx socket, if the torxsocket is of sufficient quality it will usually be fine, just make sure it is hit in far enough to make decent contact with the Allen bolt.

I found a good habit to get into with the Allen headed bolts is tap the Allen key socket in until the sound changes, then you know it is making full contact and not just in a couple of mm.

Just mindless ramblings of someone who has had their fair share of skinned knuckles!

It is definatley easier to separate the engine and box on the floor.

Hope this helps?

This - same for me. Mine appeared rounded but the head must be all the way in and absolutely level.

Take a small heavy hammer and take time tapping in carefully until it's absolutely in. Clear out the crud also.

When you have hex head in, attach an extension to bring you out far enough for good leverage. Apply gentle level pressure.

Thanks again guys, I'm trying again hopefully Friday.
I have 12 point, torx and allen heads waiting & ready (& yes, I always 'hammer' them in as far as they will go). I will not be beaten - the only unknowns are how long it will take and how much blood I lose in the effort

What a struggle this must be!

I would never attempt to get the engine off the box on it's own and would carry on fighting the CV cap head bolts.

Clean them out and hammer the right sized allen key into the socket to try to restore the damage sufficiently to shift the bolt.
Use a quality item such as Snap-On.
The hammering can shock the fastener a little to free some corrosion, bit of a bonus.
Once deeply in, an electric rattle-gun might be worth trying to undo the things.

all brutal but I think finesse has long gone out of your garage on this one.

Another thought is to drill and try a stud extractor, again only a quality item should be used.