No problem at all John, it would be my pleasure to help you out.
Nick et al,…don’t panic! I’ve ordered some internal braided rubber hose and have a nice new fire extinguisher to fit in the car.
So on to tonight’s escapades in my workshop (known to my close friends as “Black Op’s Department" of D.C. Shed Industries Inc)……..
Well all the soundproof material I had left over has been allocated to you guy’s and so I carefully marked out on each piece the cutting template, and packed it all up for postage out. I took one piece to the Post office in my lunch break and weighed it for postage, it’s a heavy/bulky thing so the cheapest & best is Express 48 at £12.98. John, I have your address so I’ll send yours out tomorrow, can the others pm me an address and I’ll try and get the remaining out tomorrow as well.
Rummaging through my draws in the shed tonight I found a tray of Fir tree trim plugs so I’ve packed enough with each piece of sound proofing to allow you to fit them FOC.
Top tip I can offer to anyone fitting a new pad is to first remove the engine cover (2 M6 bolts), bend all retaining tabs clear, cover the engine with newspaper, and masking tape the perimeter of the pad on the bulkhead and rear window.
DRY fit the pad WITHOUT any glue. I used a very high temp spray contact adhesive from Woolies, but any similar will do. The reasoning behind the dry run is that any contact adhesive will grab the pad and there isn’t enough room in the engine bay to avoid this if you put the glue on first. Particularly as you need to wrestle the pad into place.
There are 3 holes along the bulkhead half way up. These are for the Fir tree clips that hold the pad on across its centre. I found that it was easiest and logical to fit the pad across the bottom behind the wiring loom and jiggle it left and right with a couple of screwdrivers poking through the pad and into the holes in the bulkhead. You then know for sure its correct when the two outer holes line up. I then pinched tight the two tabs at the bottom (just above the hell holes) to lock it in place. Next I draped it back so it lay on top of the engine (surrounded by newspaper placed earlier) Only then did I spray both surfaces with the contact glue; when it was in the car. Let it get just touch dry and then with screwdrivers as a guide through the holes just hinge it up to meet the bulkhead and work it firmly in contact. I also used a hot air gun to warm the centre section (prior to sticking) to soften it and allow it to fit into the concave middle of the bulkhead. Finally bend over and tap with a plastic or rubber mallet all the surrounding securing tabs firmly down and fit Fir tree plugs in the holes where you've had the screwdrivers.
So on to tonight….
The blower fan in the engine bay, like most of the car, was full of sand when I took it off. After emptying it out, it made a god awful grinding noise and was hard to turn. I stripped it down tonight and found that after taking the 3 nuts off that hold the motor and fan into the housing, it was obvious the impellor was rubbing the motor base. When I pulled on the impellor it came away about 3mm, so it looked like an end float issue. Once the impellor was off, I could see that there was a small wire circlip that limits the taper fan fit to the shaft and a worn thrust washer that the circlip runs against, plus yes more sand!
The only solution I could think of was to make a new thrust washer about 2mm thick to “shim” the impellor away from the motor mount. This I did on my lathe to the exact sizes (very fiddly making a washer 2mm thick with a 1.5mm difference between id and od) Anyhow, I cleaned out the motor casing (washed it through with electrical cleaner to remove yet more sand) and re assembled it with a smear of grease in the bearings. Hey presto spins silently. Next I cleaned up the terminals and bench tested it on my new battery. It surprised me as its more powerful than you’d think; but it ran well.
I treated the motor to a buff polish with a brass wire wheel, and T cut the dull black fan casing. The whole blower motor came up like new and still retains the white printed 914 part number!
I took off what was left of the paper/ali air hose a few weeks back when I removed the fan for the engine bay paint. It was a hard task trying to find a new bit of hose, but last week half a metre came in the post that was a perfect fit. I’m still not 100% happy as I couldn’t find it with a paper outer finish, only ali/paper/ali sandwich rather than visa versa. (its an odd size id to find also) Anyhow it’s a bit shiny ali-bling bling looking but will be functional at last. I finished off tonight cleaning up the original hose clips and under the gunk, found they are engraved with VW badges that made me smile. They’ll certainly be going back on in all their new found clean glory.
So bedtime reading tonight is the current flow diagram for the FI ECU. I need to understand how it works to be able to diagnose and fix mine.
Kev, I need to get my head around your advice about the pump being “pulse” controlled. It’s a standard relay feed and the coil in the pump relay wouldn’t like a pulse, it would chatter and overheat, so I can’t quite understand what you mean.
I get the fact that the power comes from the power relay, then when the pump relay coil is energised it feeds the pump (or not in my case), but need to learn more from you about this pulsing? I have two other cars with K-Jetronic (slightly different I know with metering heads and all) but it’s a constant feed on both those cars fuel pumps, so I’m kinda confused a little at the moment
the pressure will only be running at 4PSI. 
