Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 1:18 pm
Were's the oil leak coming from??
open to suggestions. The engine doesn't appear to be losing any but the neighbours keep telling me it is 
DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker
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Subaru engine conversion
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Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 4:18 pm
Oil seems to be leaking from engine gearbox join? open to suggestions. The engine doesn't appear to be losing any but the neighbours keep telling me it is
open to suggestions. The engine doesn't appear to be losing any but the neighbours keep telling me it is Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 4:45 pm
Slipping or juddery clutch at all?
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 4:55 pm
Drives sweet. No judders or slip .... the only slipping is the neighbours in the oil 
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 5:59 pm
I'd have said the same, flywheel oil seal on its way out. Engine out job to replace with a new one. Not a big job anyway. A mornings work 
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 6:02 pm
So long as it's not crank end float that's knackered the seal...
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 6:05 pm
Good point Sam
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 6:12 pm
Steve have a look in the engine bay and look for the bottom pulley, give it a push and pull and see how many mm you have play
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 6:23 pm
just been out and given it a pull No movement in pulley.
The engine has only done 12k so i'm told!?!
You lot going to tell me it should have play in it aren't you
thank you for any help and advice
Stevie oily Feet
No movement in pulley.The engine has only done 12k so i'm told!?!
You lot going to tell me it should have play in it aren't you
thank you for any help and advice
Stevie oily Feet
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 6:36 pm
It's a tricky thing to judge (and very tricky to get to on a Speedster rep!) unless you've waggled a few.
I'd suggest getting the car up in the air and thoroughly cleaning off the underside to be sure the leak is indeed coming from where the box meets the engine, it could be running to there from somewhere else.
If it is, you'll need to whip out the motor (four bolts and a few wires) and have a look at the aforementioned seal and wiggle the other end of the crank.
I'd suggest getting the car up in the air and thoroughly cleaning off the underside to be sure the leak is indeed coming from where the box meets the engine, it could be running to there from somewhere else.
If it is, you'll need to whip out the motor (four bolts and a few wires) and have a look at the aforementioned seal and wiggle the other end of the crank.
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 6:45 pm
Thanks Sam. I haven't done alot of waggling. Done a fair bit of flashing though. I think i will have to do a deal with someone who needs their roof looking at and keep costs down. Its been a cold winter for roofing and even colder for flashing
Steve
Steve
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 8:32 pm
Odds on it's the flywheel seal (has an o-ring and a large seal). Could be the plug at the end of the cam or gearbox input seal (oil stinks) but unlikely.
If the engine has only done 12k? Either the seal is a cheap one, the o-ring is missing, the seal was damaged when fitting (common), the case has a scratch on the sealing surface (common due to screwdriver removing old seal) or the flywheel has wear at seal contact point (wears the seal in no time).
Mind you... If it has taken 5+yrs to run up those 12k miles then the seal could have failed from natural causes. It doesn't appreciate occasional use as it has no direct oil feed.
Fitting is easy with the correct tools and some experience. The engine needs to come out (scary rather than difficult) . The flywheels needs locked and a 36mm socket/breaker bar/scaffolding pole to remove. A fat mate to stand on the engine is helpful. The best way to fit the seal is with the correct tool (not expensive) to press it into the case.
A vw specialist shouldn't charge much for that job.
If the engine has only done 12k? Either the seal is a cheap one, the o-ring is missing, the seal was damaged when fitting (common), the case has a scratch on the sealing surface (common due to screwdriver removing old seal) or the flywheel has wear at seal contact point (wears the seal in no time).
Mind you... If it has taken 5+yrs to run up those 12k miles then the seal could have failed from natural causes. It doesn't appreciate occasional use as it has no direct oil feed.
Fitting is easy with the correct tools and some experience. The engine needs to come out (scary rather than difficult) . The flywheels needs locked and a 36mm socket/breaker bar/scaffolding pole to remove. A fat mate to stand on the engine is helpful. The best way to fit the seal is with the correct tool (not expensive) to press it into the case.
A vw specialist shouldn't charge much for that job.