66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

[Barry]

Look at how Barry does it, the absolute 911 master:


Graham.

Aww, shucks

Thanks Graham, much too kind.

[MT]

Thanks for that Barry - have sent you a pm as well.

Anyway today I removed both front and rear screens - no breakages, both now safely in the garage 'loft'. Good news here - the windscreen bottom corners both look good - the RHS will need a bit of repair, but minimal. Also the dashtop is perfect.


- and dismantled both doors. Passenger/RH first which took quite a while until I figured out how it came apart, to such an extent I decided to document step-wise how I think it's best to do it. Given the number of photos involved I made it a Word or pdf document, so if anyone wants one please pm with an e-mail address and I'll send a copy.
No problems found - in fact good news as it looks like both doors are structurally very sound, despite their superficially dire external appearance, and will probably be re-useable - which means I might well have two very good replacements I acquired with the car for sale at some point.
Also removed the wipers (obviously) - the ones fitted look like originally they were either painted or otherwise coated grey - is this usual. I expected them to be chromed or stainless steel.

Plan to strip more of the interior tomorrow.
How realistic is it to save and reuse the headlining? - it is in A1 condition and for originality reasons I'd like to reuse if at all possible. Any tips?

[911hillclimber]

Gently!

I tried to do the same with mine 22 years ago and it tore where glued with something very strong on the rear quarter lights.

It will never go back on the same, but worth a try.
I think Southern Trimming do 'real' material new ones quite cheaply.

How are you going to remove all the surface rust on the body? Some of it looks very pitted to me such as around the lower screen surround.

[MT]

Re headlining, yes I think I'll try to get it off and see how it goes, but with no real expectancy of long term success.

Re rust, I plan to use a local media blaster that has been recommended to me - that uses plastic beads and reduces the heat generated (and hence distortion), they leave the surface with a phosphate covering while you repair where necessary, before a final etch prime and 2 pack paint job. Even though it looks horrendous in places there is actually very little metal wastage over most of the rusted areas (with some very obvious exceptions!).
Any comments/views on this approach.
Mick

[MT]

Just a short progress update. Am progressing well with the stripdown. Given a number of folk have requested the Door stripdown document, and have offered complementary feedback I have just released chapter 2 - how to strip the rear quarter window and internals. Available on request.

As you will see from other posts (How do I etc) I have been stumped for a while now and again (and still am on a couple), but in general I am amazed how logically (and easily) the car comes apart compared with my BMC/Triumph/Landrover experience ..... with the notable exception of the steering column and it's switches - that was a puzzle worthy of Mensa - the little retaining plug that you can only find by rotating the clamp once you have undone it - nice one Ferdinand. I plan another step-by-step stripdown document for that one as well if anyone faces a Steering column removal.

All the bolts are relatively easy to remove (did they add something to the bolts before assembly?) and none of the captive bolts have failed - unlike their UK counterparts of that era.

The car continues to be the mix of excellent and dire condition. Rear window panel and seat back, floor, inner sills all look really good - although I have yet to get all that lovely sound-proof/felt stuff off yet - any advice on that please?

Thought I had a really good oil tank, but then in just one place ....


Any views on the repair potential? It looks like the tank is copper coated or something - what effect does that have on the repair mode? Is a clean, cut and mig weld repair not an option?

Also found the original chassis number written in crayon under the (excellent condition) dash top.
DELETED

Shame it will get obliterated in the media clean...

Well back to the shed ....

[MT]

Further progress today.
Got a replacement oil tank - thanks Garry
Also I found that the thicker sound-deadening material came out pretty easily once I got a corner up - to the extent it is re-useable if I need it. All apart from the section covering the rear seats, where Hans must have had his best gluepot out for the day - it came out in many bits, and some is still there as you will see.

Anyway the good news is the floors look as solid from the inside as they do from underneath.



And the rear shelf...



And I found out where to get the lock number - it's on the lever arm of the door locks (thanks again Garry)



Mick

[MT]

The only 'non-Germanic' thing I've found up to now is the way the headlining is secured in the rear quarter, above the rear shelf. After removing the thick sound-deadening stuff .....there is a strip of thickish stiff rubber that is nailed (yes, nailed!) using 4 twist nails to the rear window shelf. A quick tap from the engine compartment and they came out, but seems very incongruous.



Mick

[210bhp]

Mick

To answer your question on the wipers you have a pair of originals there in the correct original finish.

I see you have found one of the secret numbers that identifies your car written in crayon under the dash. Let's see if you can come across the other one. You surely will during the stripdown.

One question, did you find the rear window defrost tubes in the outer corners of the rear parcel shelf?

Regards
Mike

[MT]

Yes I found the other one .... not my best photo though ....
DELETED

... and yes the rear window defrost tubes were present, complete with lots of padding behind them (no doubt to trap moisture and speed corrosion!). That said the area was in great condition on one side and only very slightly corroded on the other. The little tubes seem to be ceramic coated, and were connected with some odd orange foam tubing and tie-wraps. The tubes were irrecoverable so I will need to find some suitable replacement.

Re the wipers, what is the correct coating for them? As you can see they will need re-coating.

Mick

[210bhp]

The foam tubes with tie wraps were original too. That's how they were fixed. If they are salvageable keep them. Try finding some replacements! If you are chucking out I would be interested. I only have one at the moment. And yes they were mainly orange (some in black). I have been keeping my eyes peeled for years to try to find some. They never come up.

I don't know what the original finish on the wipers was. Certainly not painted but that silver/ grey finish is hard to replicate without it looking non original.

Regards
Mike

[MT]

Well back to it after two weeks wandering around France.

Stripped the front suspension with few problems. The pads are half worn (new ones anyway!) and the discs are both true (3 thou and 2 thou run out) and circa 12.3mm thick, so re-useable - any reason not to?

The front struts appear to be the correct early type with the ball joint attached to the damper by 3 bolts with tabs. Can anyone identify the type of damper in the front struts for me. It is red under the cover (see second photo) and has a red blob of paint on the top - I cannot see any other numbers or ID, but then I'm not sure where to look really!


Also what is the best route to refurbish them? - they seem fundamentally to be in good order - pumping up and down results quickly in major friction.

Then stripped out the loom. Not that bad, but I can imagine getting it back in is going to be lots of fun for all the family. I should imagine it's necessary to bind the rear section in tape until you get it through the central section. Any tips/experience much appreciated on this.


So that's the front end stripped out - get the rear suspension off tomorrow and then it's just preping for the excellent media blasters that Barry has recommended to me - they are nearby and I have been for a look at their process and facilities - bit pricey, but still they look good value. We shall see.

Oh one further question. I managed to strip down all the front suspension/crossmember - the torsion bars were like new

but I am flummoxed (sp) as to how to separate the control arms/wishbones from the crossmember. I have removed a large allen socket headed bolt (one sheared!) that seems to tighten around a rubber bush, and the arm will now rotate with considerable effort, but I can see no way to get it out (or to get a new bush back in). Is this the obscure Flanbloc referred to in one of my manuals? If so in typical ' manual-speak' all I get is the usual 'pull and turn the control arm until it is free'. Might work for Arnie Schwartz, but not for me. Any tips?

Also stripped the headlining without much damage, so it might go back if I can clean it up a bit - I really want to put back as much of the original interior as possible. Roof looks excellent.

See what tomorrow brings!

[davep]

I don't know what the original finish on the wipers was. Certainly not painted but that silver/ grey finish is hard to replicate without it looking non original.

That grey finish looks to be cadmium plating.

[MT]

Another good (and educational!) day - the rear suspension and the rest of the brake and fuel pipes are now out, and apart from (!) stripping off the underseal in the areas I think it needs it, it is now stripped back ready for its trip to the blasters.

One side of the rear suspension.


I decided to take each side out in one piece - after loosening that INCREDIBLY tight castellated hub nut. (217 ft.ib the manuall says and I can believe it). It took my 3/4" 'agricultural' socket set and a 3 ft scaffold pole to get them loose. How you are supposed to re-torque them I don't know. Does anyone make a torque wrench that goes that high?? It would have to be 3-4 ft. long. I suppose I just use the same tools/length bar in reverse and that should get it about the same. That will be a fun day!

The rear torsion bars were as good as the front ones - 23mm painted orange stamped KD on the side of one, and 6 E on the end of the other - as well as the usual L & R.

Also managed to get 4 of the 5 rear decals off in good order - no. 5 ripped just at the last moment. Not sure if I'll reuse them, or just keep them as part of its history.


Days work in Aberdeen tomorrow, so no more progress until Friday when I'll try to get more of the prepping for blasting..... oh and try to figure out how to remove the door hinge pins without Special Tool XXHICOST 15. The door gaps are soooo good that I really don't want to remove the hinges if I can help it. If anyone in the SE has this special tool that can remove the hinges and is prepared to hire it to me please let me know. I have read a number of threads on the topic here and on Early 911S and some seen to manage it with a long screwdriver/home made gizmo, and others cannot shift them with a bazooka...... so I'm not sure what to try. I certainly don't want to damage anything by trying random ideas.

Oh another thing - the paint code plate on the LH drivers door

What is the best way to get it off with min damage? It seems to be pinned rather than pop riveted.

Any responses to my several questions would be appreciated, esp re the dampers.

Mick

[Bruce M]

To torque the rear nuts?

About a metre of scaffolding pole and full body weight.

Or... A big ass torque wrench. 3/4" drive and about a metre long.
Something like a britool Evt5000. Regularly on eBay but get it calibrated.

[visualfx]

Looking good Mick can’t be much more to do before it’s a ready for blasting

I’ll have to pop over for tea & cake again and compare notes