DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Gary71 wrote:

RobFrost wrote:What do you plan to do in respect of the notoriously expensive replacement dashboard top? Items like that really hurt, but when everything else is top notch, it's harder to compromise.

They are super expensive, so I’m going to rebuild the one I have. I repaired the cracks and trimmed it maybe 18 years back, but the trim has shrunk slightly around the speaker hole after being beaten by the Le Mans sunshine so it needs doing again.

Current plan is to replace the flat part with rigid board to improve the fit and make it easier to trim. I’ve got a replacement straighter speaker grille, but again I might make one to get a good fit.

I’ll see how that plan works out once I’ve removed the old vinyl!

What are you going to do now Woolworths is shut?

Great progress Gary. Loving your thread.

Regards
Mike

Long Live DIY!

Like the idea of a 'systems check' before everything is fitted, will sort out those pesky earths.

Gary71 wrote:

rich73 wrote:Wow, there's a real look of almost there with the dash. Have you connected the battery and got something to light up yet, I've found that a real milestone before.

Not yet, too many lose wires kicking around at the minute, I fear the smoke may escape from the wires if I go too soon

Definitely something to do though, I agree it would be a milestone.

Once I’ve got the tunnel finished then I think it’s time for wax injection. I’ve been putting it off but need to do it soon before I start covering up any holes.

Hi Gary

When I first applied power to the loom, I used a 12v power supply from an old Scalextic set rather than a car battery. If anything is wrong with the wiring, a car battery will dump 250 Amps in a one'er. With the 12v power supply current is limited, I also fitted an inline fuse (1A) as belts and braces. I also fitted a multimeter on the power line so you can monitor current draw, from memory I think mine was 20mA maybe even lower. Doing it this way will highlight any wiring errors while limiting the possibility of damaging any components.

Hope that helps.

Good idea John. My Dad has a variable output power supply so I’ll use that.

I used the standard battery but did add a very small fuse in the power line when initially checking things. By using a fuse holder, I could gradually increase the fuse rating as I went up to bigger and bigger items, such as windows.

Took a few brave pills today and pulled of the front wing so I could get the fuel filler in and get the rest of the fixings sorted. Hopefully it will go back in the same place!

I made up the other tunnel fuel line and fitted them with new grommets, then put the accelerator rod in the tunnel so finally that’s everything in there!

The wing can go back on tomorrow now and stay there

Big brave pills! Great progress Gary

Good luck with getting the boot onto the wing, mine (new part) was a real sod, but it was a Dansk wing too!

Press on, Darren will be starting soon, race to classic Le Mans!

That gaiter was an OE one I bought many years back, so fingers crossed it fits!

hot air gun will be your friend, fixed it for me, get it supple.

What product are you using on the upper mating surfaces of the inner and outer wing please Gary?

Regards
Mike

Hi Mike, I’m not planning on putting anything in there, too much risk of ruining those carefully made panel gaps and alignment. Both surfaces have just 2K epoxy as I masked the mating flanges when I did the Raptor as it’s way too thick.

I’m going to run a bead of sealant down the seal channel on the top once the wing is finally on and before I stick the bonnet seal down.

With the arch liners I’ll be running it shouldn’t get too much, if any, water up there and I’d rather give any that does get up there the chance to run out.

Cheers!
No dum dum then.

Regards
Mike

No, I’ve got a tin for a few bits here and there, but it can be really resistant to compression so good chance of messing up all the hard work.

Did a dry build of the door this afternoon, frame goes in ok, so window lift and some glass tomorrow.

I took the opportunity whilst the wing is off to feed the speaker wiring through the A pillar, so much easier when you can see what you are doing!



Just got to find those little rubber buffers that screw into the roof now.

…and locate the screw holes… As they are only self tapped in the paint has sealed them up really well!

Gary71 wrote:Hi Mike, I’m not planning on putting anything in there, too much risk of ruining those carefully made panel gaps and alignment. Both surfaces have just 2K epoxy as I masked the mating flanges when I did the Raptor as it’s way too thick.

I’m going to run a bead of sealant down the seal channel on the top once the wing is finally on and before I stick the bonnet seal down.

With the arch liners I’ll be running it shouldn’t get too much, if any, water up there and I’d rather give any that does get up there the chance to run out.

I'm not saying this approach is flawed because I think it's probably a good approach, but capillary action will prevent water from running out. Most important things in my view is to have a good, thick layer of paint or whatever coating, make sure it doesn't get scratched or pitted, and ensure the rubber bonnet seals are directing water away correctly.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk