DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Just a bit frustrating to mess up the very last bit!

Unfortunately I'd also covered it in thick underseal first as well!

Yeah I know mate - just trying to talk you in from the ledge that's all

Don't worry, I've locked the garage and opened the wine!

Gary, I have only just looked through this thread, and you have done some sterling work on one of the more complex repair areas. It's a shame about the lack of clearance on rear stop for the bush. I'm sure it won't be easy to get that out again! This may seem sacrilegious, but how about shaving a mm off the back of the torsion bar spline tube to stop it hitting the stop?

Please don't spoil the job by using underseal, get some proper sprayable sealer and do the job properly, it will protect the surfaces far better and look right as well

Thanks for the kind words Nick.

Glad you suggested the mod to the spline tube, I had been considering just that! It's probably the best option as I'll end up damaging the tube trying to get it out.

I'd love to use a proper sealer, but a compressor is missing from my tools

Must be nice to get it all back together though, snag or not . Well done, it's one of the worst bits on a 911 to do, and certainly just about the most complex from a 'layers' point of view.

A silly question, could you not relieve your bush a little with a burr in a drill? I've got the same one I bought years ago, and it's still going strong. The lovely thing with it is the way that you can 'file' things that are quite a way down a hole, or in this case, tube. Hard old material, and can cope with MIG weld beads O.K.

Are you looking to take much metal off?

BTW, I didn't put the pics up, as you had beaten me to it with the real thing .

Ha! Good job done and I feel for you and the last snag.
When i did mine on both side all those years ago I coated them lightly with rattle-can under body spray and immediatly took it off. Looked quite poor.
Simply painted with Comma Red Oxide and two coats of Hammerite Smooth black Been there 22 years with the odd stone chip touch-up.

Very very hard getting all those curves and a clean flange in place. You are right; those USA repair panels look good just now, but this is far more satisfyng!

Champion job and good on 'ya.

Graham.

Barry wrote: A silly question, could you not relieve your bush a little with a burr in a drill? I've got the same one I bought years ago, and it's still going strong. The lovely thing with it is the way that you can 'file' things that are quite a way down a hole, or in this case, tube. Hard old material, and can cope with MIG weld beads O.K.

I do have a carbide burr on the end of a flexi drive, but unfortunately I made the flange from a hardened steel 5mm thick washer...It would still cut it (eventually), but the washer has small holes in a ring around it (from whatever it's original use was) and I'd end up destroying the whole thing. So it's either all out or go for I'll be going with Nick's idea.

Cheers for the support chaps! It will all look OK in the morning

I went with Nick's suggestion in the end and woke the neighbours the other night grinding a few mm from the inside of the torsion bar spline tube. Time will tell if there is enough running clearance!

The suspension is now finally back on the nearside. Only a minor disc offset panic half way through when the caliper didn't line up with the disc, but soon resolved by cranking up the driveshaft and pulling the hub the rest of the way into the bearing. I had feared that I'd put the wrong hub back on!



Next job is to pull the gearbox off and start on that. Reversing light microswitch, clutch, split case and reseal, and maybe 2nd gear dog ring / selector ring depending on what I find as I can beat the syncro relatively easily, and the syncro itself is new (ish!)

The box is now in pieces awaiting the arrival of some parts from Porsche.



After consulation I am replacing the 1st/2nd gear slider as the teeth are rounded, together with all roller bearings that support the free gears and one of the bushes that the rollers run on.

The Porsche bearing 999.201.470.00 is the same as Honda part 911 02 RZF 006. The main difference being a £40 a piece price difference, which really adds up when there is five of them!

I've just bought some of the VW jointing compound Mike Bainbridge recommends, he did mention it was 'expensive' but even I was surprised at the £49 cost!!

So hopefully this week the gearbox rebuild can start in ernest. As long as my radio installation doesn't distract me!

Looks in great shape compared to mine in the Lola Gary!

Good luck.

Just been catching up. Good work all the way through . So very satisfying to DIY.

I think its a curse off those of us who can DIY to often do a silly at the end of a job its usually no sweat to fix but so frustrating.

Mikes tip for sealer is a good one, Yamaha also use the same or a similiar product I think they call it Yamabond and its meant for automotive metal to metal joints its a nice grey colour too.

andy

Never one to let the lack of the correct tooling stop progress... Tonight was time for the input shaft to come apart. It wouldn't fit in the press at work without modifying it, so I've had to improvise!



Studding would have been better, but this was the best B&Q could come up with. So with the welder set to 'kill' a few minutes later I had this and it was apart.

Now to clean everything up and put it back together.

Spooky, I was doing the very same last night on my Villiers 2 stroke!

Stubborn bearing to say the least..putting the new one on might be tricky too.