DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Great work Andy, car looks great.

As a non technical type I find your work really interesting Andy. My new (to me) ex USA 1970 911T has some small dashboard splits. I’m wondering if they’re anything I can handle. Have I missed you addressing yours - or is a useful idiots guide (for someone like me) coming up?

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Hi Jeremy - you didn't miss a post by me detailing any dash repairs as I haven't done anything about it yet - & am unlikely to before offering the car for sale.

The dash needs to come out to do the job properly which, in turn, involves removing the windscreen first.

If I was keeping the car I'd wait until I was ready to repaint it & carry out the repairs to the dash at the same time.

There have been a number of threads in the past discussing dash repairs & re-covering (search under 'dash crack repairs' or similar) - the most comprehensive I think is during Gary's restoration thread on his (now) Viper Green '72 2.4T:

viewtopic.php?p=648970&hilit=dash+cracks#p648970


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That’s great Andy - really useful. I thought I’d seen something somewhere on ‘cosmetic’ dash repairs - I’ll have a good search around.

Here you go Jeremy

viewtopic.php?t=68983&start=270

Rob Frosts Tangerine Dream restoration thread

Regards

Sean

Andy:
Have you had chance to drive the car with the new brake pads yet?
If so, what are those pads like??

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I haven't had a chance yet Graham - I dropped a load of roofing tiles on my foot a couple of weeks ago & one of the side effects of getting old is the time it takes for damaged body parts to heal ...

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Sorry to hear about your foot Andy.
I do hope you have a trouble free recovery.
It sounds very painful

I fully understand Andy!
We are not 20 anymore.

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There was a slight delay before the new M-type front calipers arrived as they were on back-order at Heritage Parts.

So whilst waiting for them to be delivered I decided to start stripping the old o/s ATE front caliper to assess its condition.

Removing the pistons revealed that the cylinders looked to be in good condition





- so the decision was taken to 'split' the caliper in order to enable better access for thorough cleaning.

I didn't have any suitable Ribe sockets so ordered a cheap set via ebay for under a tenner:




- & was pleasantly surprised just how easily the Ribe through bolts came undone which, hopefully, was a good omen !



On removal it had been found that the inner piston's retraction mechanism was detached from the piston itself with a damaged wire circlip loose at the bottom of the cylinder - don't know how long it had been like this but could be why the piston had been sticking ...




One of the pistons - the inner one unsurprisingly - had some light pitting so, given how little replacement pistons are, it would make sense to replace both.

The dilemma was whether to re-install the piston retraction mechanisms or not ...


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At this point the new front calipers arrived:




However, as with the rears, the piston orientation was wrong, so they were rotated to the correct 20 deg position.

New rigid kunifer pipes - fabricated using the invaluable Sykes-Pickavant brake flaring kit I've had for ~ 35 yrs



- & the cleaned-up banjo unions together with new copper sealing washers



- were attached & then the new calipers, along with Brembo pads, were fitted to the car & pressure bled ...


So, with both new front & rear calipers & pads fitted, that was another job ticked off the list ...

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Ref those pins in the cylinder bores:

I had the same issue, get them out and use the new pistons I had bought or clean the original good condition pistons and re-assemble.

ATE/Porsche put them there for a reason I presume that was worth having, so I re-used my pistons and left the pins in.
I could not find new pistons that had the inner counter bore to pick up this feature.

My parts came from RedLine close to Worcester centre.

The A type calliper I have at the front had no such pin design.

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With the new front/rear calipers & Brembo pads (no squealing apparent so far Graham !) fitted, the next job was to tidy up the (rear) fuel pump installation/wiring.

When the car was submitted for an MOT inspection immediately prior to me buying it, one of the failure defects noted was "nearside rear fuel pump lower hose insecure".

To be fair, when the original Bosch fuel pump had packed up it had been hurriedly-replaced by a new Pierburg pump & the wiring extended/modified to match the different terminal layout.

I decided to remove the pump & make a neater/more secure job of the installation, taking the opportunity of replacing the flexible fuel hoses to & from the pump at the same time.

First stage was to remove/clean/paint the original pump mounting bracket :





As can be seen, the electrical terminals on the Pierburg pump are of the threaded post type whereas the original Bosh pump had spade terminals.

When the new pump had been fitted, the previous owner had extended the wiring with 2 x male spade-to-ring terminal wires





- I decided to delete these & modify the pump terminals to accept spade terminals directly so that I could use the original pump harness.

Amongst my electrical terminals I found some twin spade terminals of the type used on 12v ignition coils :





- so I cut one of the male spades off each & filed the bases down until they fitted the pump screw terminals :





However, in whichever orientation I fitted the male spades, the spacing didn't match that of the original Bosch 'plug' so I removed the 2 wires from the plastic plug :





- thus allowing the individual wires to be attached to the pump.

The Pierburg pump was then strapped to the mounting bracket using plastic cable ties, wrapping it in rubber sheet first to minimise the possibility of any 'chafing' :





I had to fit it at a slight angle so that the flexible inlet hose (at the rh end) would clear the mounting bracket.

Next came the task of replacing the flexible fuel hoses - 9mm id for the supply & 7.5mm id from the pump outlet up to the engine compartment.

The hoses used were both Cohline 2240 R9-rated (with a separate FKM inner lining) compatible with E85 (15% ethanol) fuel :

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Next my attention turned to trying to track down/eliminate the cause of an intermittent 'hesitation'/lack of power that had plagued the car ever since i got it.

My feeling was that it could possibly be down to a failing CDI unit but the first stage was to ensure that all electrical connections in the ignition circuit were clean, tight & in good condition.

First off the engine compartment relay panel was removed & cleaned up :









You might notice that there's no voltage regulator fitted to the panel - that's because a previous US owner fitted an uprated 75A alternator c/w integral VR back in late '98.

Although the engine is fitted with 40 IDA Webers - completely refurbished/rebuilt a couple of years ago - it was obviously originally equipped with Zeniths since there were still elements of the enrichment circuit & associated wiring evident.

I decided to remove any remaining superfluous components of the circuit & identify/isolate any related wiring.

So, the redundant microswitch was removed & the wiring for that, the speed switch & enrichment solenoid tied up out of the way using cable ties.

I then removed/inspected the CDI wiring harness & discovered a couple of problems - the spade connection at the end of the braided earthing strap had seen better days &, after peeling back the black insulation sleeving it appeared that somebody had hacked in to the red power wire resulting in a dodgy 'splice' :





Luckily I was able to get away with shortening the red wire & adding a new female spade terminal plus cutting off the old earth terminal - replacing it with 2 separate new terminals:






Everything was then re-fitted in the engine bay ...





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Great to see Andy….the new owners of this car is going to be lucky to have had you as the previous owner….