DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Hi Dean, The compressors are ABAC 50 litres which are on wheels, they got quite a lot of use in the house renovation we've just finished.

Another thing that I didn't mention is that you need to get the water out of the air too. I have a setup based on this made from copper.

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/air-system.htm

Noise isn't really too bad, its the dust that's a nightmare.

One tip when running 2 compressors is to adjust them so they don't both come on at once and trip the supply. Also helps now I have a dedicated garage supply rather than the spur from the house it was running off. Especially important as my partner works from home .

For the fiddly bits I'm using a selecting of wire brushes from tool station, they are really cheap and work amazingly well on a modern battery drill.
2021-11-05_03-13-22 by richard cannings, on Flickr


More blasting action today...
2021-11-05_03-09-14 by richard cannings, on Flickr

Think I'm over half way there with the blasting and epoxy.
2021-11-05_03-09-38 by richard cannings, on Flickr

Looks like you’ve got a great shell there. Must be great to blast it back and it not end up in holes!

Found the odd bit when blasting but looks like I managed to full weld up most of the holes before hand. Feel like I can see the end the end of the cleaning now.
One of todays successes' was finding the engine lid hinge brackets in this lot.

2021-11-16_02-34-41 by richard cannings, on Flickr

2021-11-16_02-35-04 by richard cannings, on Flickr

Started to clean up the engine lid too quite like its original colour.

2021-11-16_02-35-17 by richard cannings, on Flickr

Couldn't resist a bit of drilling this morning.

2021-11-17_01-23-42 by richard cannings, on Flickr

2021-11-17_01-23-52 by richard cannings, on Flickr

Facebook marketplace £150 pillar drill now fully justified!

Might do a bit of drilling of the bonnet hinges too, although I did read somewhere that they to do with safety in a crash and you would surly die if you even thought about drilling holes in them. Might do it anyway and just use the Volvo if I'm planning on crashing.

Seeing your factory paint - I thought I should throw this out there:

I do like that, think I saw a car at Redtek a few years in that colour and it did look stunning. Engine lid cleaned up and holes filled ready for epoxy.

2021-11-18_12-37-44 by richard cannings, on Flickr

Finished our new bird table in Porsche Olive green. Tried out Lechler direct gloss 2K which was excellent, may need a slower hardener though as it went off pretty quickly.

2021-11-18_12-38-05 by richard cannings, on Flickr

Just ordered a new Mig welder too which should arrive tomorrow. Old one still going strong but wanted try a new inverter one.

Good luck keeping the pesky squirrels off that!

Looks great, lot of work in that.

Thankfully we have a pair of squirrel deterrents.
2021-11-18_04-47-34 by richard cannings, on Flickr

Few little fiddly repairs to the wings with the mig today.

2021-11-19_12-09-18 by richard cannings, on Flickr

2021-11-19_12-09-41 by richard cannings, on Flickr

Old welder working better than ever today.

Still haven't decided how I'm going to weld the arches on yet but thought I'd have a practice on an old panel. Tried a butt weld using the TIG on high power (60A) with no up/Down slope with just short manual pulses. Seemed to work well although not very tolerant to a gap in the join and just blows through.
May try with some copper bar behind.

2021-11-19_03-22-09 by richard cannings, on Flickr


Did try run a normal Tig weld at 28A and the distortion was impressive running out 150mm.

Fall-back plan is to built up a series of mig spot welds although I do like the idea of the softer Tig welds to make any panel beating any easier. Any thoughts welcome on this.

There's an old Irish american guy on YouTube who advocates forming a temporary lap joint then cutting both panels together at 45 degrees with a fine grinder blade. Done carefully, this gives you a butt joint with no gap. You can progress a section at a time, cutting then pushing the current section flush while you butt weld it, before cutting the next section at 45 degrees and so on.

I think his method would be easier for a straight joint as you'd have to be very careful not to penetrate too far with the disc on say a wheel arch.

This only addresses the problem of gaps blowing out, not hardness of the weld.

On a related note, pure argon is better for not blowing out as CO2 lowers the surface tension of the puddle.

I don't think you'll avoid doing a series of tiny welds to avoid distortion.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

Spent some more time on YouTube and although I haven't come across your Irish American guy I've watched enough to decide that I'm going to go with using TIG to weld the arches on.
Piece of 4 inch tube just arrived so I've got everything I need to do the centre fill conversion. Really pleased with the cost of this so far, managed to get the tube, cap and neck for £54 which is a good saving compared the the price of the kits I've seen offered.
Seen quite a few solutions for the fuel catchment and was going to go for some sort of dog bowl based solution but I do like the one I found recently.

5ccc1890c370bd3a35a3e369_11-for-sale-1971-Porsche-911-ST-bicester-heritage-oxfordshire-uk-sports-purpose-porsche-specialists by richard cannings, on Flickr

Old boiler flue.
Nice work on the car.

Here's that technique for getting butt welds flush and tight. But I suspect it will be a lot more tricky for a curved seam like your wheel arches.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_u31t13QO6A

stretch wrote:Old boiler flue.
Nice work on the car.

That did cross my mind but I only had 4.5" in my scrap pile!
Think the stuff I bought was intended as ;

Cobra_Subaru_Impreza_Turbo_Back_Exhaust_wCatRes_3_b8aab_4787_3707 by richard cannings, on Flickr


Thanks for the link rob, I'm quite liking watching this chap at the monent too.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQ5YKZ ... YJnBLySxbg

Been away for a while but just starting to get going on the car again,