My '72 911T

[Gary71]

Great stuff !

What plans for floor insulation Gary - the original bitumen-type stuff, or something more modern, or dare I say it, a paintable version?

All the best!

Current plan for the inside is spraying the back of the car and floors in Raptor then this bitumen stuff over the top. I binned the original rubber matting over the rear seats as it’s a terrible water trap.

The rear seat panels, and especially the heel board, resonate horribly when you have the wire brush running over them so it gives a good idea which areas need damping.



It’s all staying black, no point painting green when it’s all covered up!

The underside is also staying black although Raptor is theoretically over paintable.

[deano]

I think Raptor on the floor inside sounds like a good idea - I was thinking that or Por15 because it is also tough, but also looks fantastic and will coat the rust inside the seams....

I'm also considering Glassmat type material for floor insulation; firstly within the depressions, and then a sheet over the entire floor on both sides of the tunnel - no glue (I want to be able to lift it up with the floor carpets to check for puddles). Possibly the same over the parcel shelf and fire wall, but glued on.

I was thinking that the rear seats, given their shape, are going to be difficult to cover.. not sure about how to tackle this so will be watching what you do with your bitumen sheets with interest

My rear seat and shelf insulation was 5mm-ish thick bitumen type material, and very brittle so came apart - I hot glued it back together but not convinced about its re-usability. I'm ready to drop it in and see, but it is way too brittle to handle at these temperatures so I cannot touch it at the moment

Thanks for your feedback Gary !

[Gary71]

Puddle checking is one only the reasons to go epoxy/seam seal/epoxy/raptor/bitumen on the inside.

As long as it’s all stuck down properly then water shouldn’t get under it and it’s the same level of protection as the outside. Previously I had a horsehair type mat under the carpets as well that’s easy to pull out.

With a bit of heat gun waving the bitumen forms easily, but yes a concave seat pan is not going to be easy!

Looking at the stuff I pictured (from Woolies) it looks like roof flashing from B&Q and I’ve had fun manipulating that into all sorts of shapes on my kitchen roof recently.

[Gary71]

Random double post!

[Gary71]

Masking up today to spray epoxy into the hard to reach bits and give an even second coat.
Luckily calories are being delivered to keep me going as I’m really bored of painting

[deano]

Mmm, yummy. The cake looks nice too, especially when we have waited 20 whole days for an update

I dont see any masking of your garage - would love to know more about the epoxy that you are using and how you are applying it.

I was thinking about using the UPOL 2k epoxy aerosol spray inside and under the car, to save the faffing with mixing and gun cleanup when using spray gun and compressor setup. If it were possible, I would just brush or roll on 2-part epoxy, to completely eliminate the overspray that gets on everything within a square mile, but I have heard that it doesnt go on very well like this. Tips and advice very welcome at this point whenever you get chance...

All the best!

[Gary71]

This is the first time spraying, all the other black paint is roller/brush. Same reasons you mention above, hassle, clean up mess and danger of asphyxiation...

I’m only spraying a second coat to get any bits I’ve missed and to try and get to the corners you can’t properly reach with a brush.

I’m using Epoxy mastic 121 from http://www.rust.co.uk. Add some thinners to spray it, goes on fine just 50/50 mix if brushing.

Lots of prep and cleaning first though. Scuff pads, 120grit then panel wipe about 5 times before painting.

Not sure I’ve got the gun set right as it puts out a very narrow fan, but it makes aiming it easier!




The slightly stippled finish is from using the roller for the first coat. If you sprayed it all it would be smooth. All of it is going to be covered up with Raptor anyway so it doesn’t matter.

[911hillclimber]

Why have you gone all over the outer sill along the bottom of the door gap?
Will you be flatting that for colour and leave some along the vented line of the sill?

[Gary71]

It’s got S sill covers (or rust traps as they are otherwise known )

It’s masked 5mm below where the top edge of that cover sits, and everything below it is black. There are a few bits that will get some colour over the top, like the wheel arch edges and, but most will stay black.

[deano]

I’m using Epoxy mastic 121 from http://www.rust.co.uk. Add some thinners to spray it, goes on fine just 50/50 mix if brushing.

Thank you for this tip!

How does the 121 sand? For the underside, I want something that doesn't need sanding, but could be sanded if needed.

I used Normfest 2k high-build epoxy aerosols to prime my bumpers and engine lid after bare metalling them, which is a fantastic base for bodywork but needs sanding flat - fortunately it sands like a dream. I was planning on priming/prepping the whole body using these cans, but apparently paint shops dont like it when the customer preps the body. What, do they expect me to leave the metal bare for the next 20 years!?

[Gary71]

Once it cures fully (couple of weeks) you can sand it. It’s not really designed for it though and it’s hard work as it drags.
If you want to flat and top coat then Standox 7200 2k primer is recommended by people that know better than me!
That’s the beige paint I’ve used under the bonnet and the engine bay as it doesn’t need the impact protection.

[PeterK]

Once 121 goes off, then you‘ll need to scuff sand if you want to overcoat with anything. However, if you cover within about 24 hours, you don't need to.

RustBuster’s 121 is for underbody (underneath, under wings, etc) and doesn’t need covering if you don’t want to. Their 421 is intended / better for bodywork that will be hi-build primered & top coated. It sands more easily.

[Gary71]

Yes agreed, I scuffed the first coat up, even though I only did it yesterday, as it was shiny and I couldn’t bring myself to trust the next layer would stick.
I use 3M pads rather than sandpaper as it’s easier to scuff without worrying about sanding the top off any lumps and bumps.
It’s also really easy to see where you been and get an even matt finish.

[deano]

Thanks guys for sharing. While we are talking about sanding, my all favourite sanding bits are these Bosch sanding sponge blocks. While the thin (circa 5 mm thick) pads are great for getting inside curves and finishing, these blocks are the bees knees for roughing up or cutting larger surfaces, trust me, wash clean and never wear out ! And super cheap... only available from Axminster I think...

https://www.axminstertools.com/bosch-ab ... f-3-106431
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-Abrasi ... 2985065691

[Gary71]

PPE has arrived. Time get back on it.

Plan for today is second coat of epoxy on full underfloor, LH arches and torsion tube area.

A trapped nerve in my shoulder is currently disagreeing with this idea, but pushing through always works doesn’t it