I thought I'd list the work we've done to the 356 since purchasing it to give an insight into what it takes to do the first sort of a car for historic racing. Bear in mind that this was a car I purchased that was already running in the US SCCA series, albeit not recently. It's worth noting that while most of this might be specific to this car you would have to do all this in a ground up build and even a turn-key requires checking, updating and fettling. Anyway, take a deep breath and read on:
- Purchase car! Easier said than done, especially a good base car
- Ship it to UK, clear customs
- MOT car. To do this we had to: sort out the indicator wiring, replace the headlamps with RHD versions, rebuild the front king & link pin as it was knackered, and adjust the drums brakes to pass, but realise we need to re-line front shoes
- Register the car with the DVLA, filling in a multitude of forms
- Send away for licence plates
- Figure out which trailer was suitable and buy it, including winch, tie-downs, etc
- Purchase FIA compliant boots, gloves & balaclava (I already had a helmet & suit)
- Buy new Dunlop racing tyres, fit & balance them
- Sort a spare pair (in case of puncture)
- Do a full spanner check and realise the Americans don't use torque wrenches
- Do a full service (engine & gearbox oil, filters, timing, plugs, tappets, etc, etc)
- Replace all the flexible brake pipes & thoroughly bleed the system
- Purchase a new second set of brake shoes in case we cook a set at the track
- Break 5 foot breaker bar trying to take off rear axle nuts. Get big impact wrench from Paragon and use fancy language to remove. Fit new split pins and torque correctly....
- Check the suspension alignment (toe, camber & castor)
- Fix an exhaust leak by filing the flanges flat and replacing the gaskets
- Clean and grease the gear linkage
- Rebuild Solex P11-4 40mm dual throat solid shaft carbs
- Replace Zenith's with Solex P11-4's to cure misfire/poor high-end running
- Replace everything else (condensor, coil, dizzy, fuel pump, etc) when P11's don't cure it
- Re-jet the P11's and we suddenly have a quick car
- Replace the split main fixed fuel line under the tank when installing the new electric fuel pump: fractured along the seam, it wouldn't have lasted 10 minutes punishment over the curbs....
- sort throttle linkage to take up slack and also get full throttle. sort accelerator stop so we don't bend arms & linkage when the right foot is welded to the floor...
- Replace original steering wheel with smaller Speedwell version to quicken steering
- Fix the check straps so the windows seal properly
- Remove bonnet lock and a host of other non-essential bits
- Corner weight car: comes in at 791 kg's, well within the minimum limit of 780 for a 356A Super. Realise we have some work to do moving weight forward and to right hand side though - we'll leave that to another day
- Sort a set of tools and spares for the racetrack (thanks to PRS for the latter!)
- Buy and install the MSA race stickers
Still to do:
- Purchase new fire extinguisher (old one is out of date...)
- Purchase lightweight jack, axle stands, oil, brake fluid, etc
- Purchase CSP-modified Bursch exhaust to improve performance and reduce the noise level. The Sebring really is awful on both counts!
- Sort the rear towing eye
- Buy and fit new 5-point harness (old one was out of date...)
- Make up templates for the newly purchased ally Speedster passenger seat
- Buy and fit a modern race seat
And this is before we've really turned a wheel in anger and broke something!

Ah well that's racing...
