Wot, not another '79 Targa resto thread

[PeterK]

The front door window beading and the rear quarter beading are already black (anodising I suspect), although it may benefit from a satin black over-coat, as I've done to the fresh air inlet surround.

No detailed pictures, but my understanding of the HRW wire routing is .....
The glass sits in the outer half of the channel, with the wires running in the inner half. At the heater element connections, my glass is sculpted, suggesting that the wire is just looped over from the inner to the outer channel.
At the other ends, the wires pass through a hole in the seal (you have to make it) and down through the hole in the rear parcel shelf, to the connection in the engine compartment.

[PeterK]

So, a few quick things while awaiting the glass men.

As long threatened, I span the rebuilt engine over (with the plugs out). Well, once I had worked out how to cancel the alarm defeat and put the starter relay back in, anyway . The good news was that the oil light went out almost immediately. Gave it about 20 seconds spinning over, then let the starter cool, before giving it a further 30 seconds. It sounds like a Porsche engine. Plugs are now in, ready for the first start attempt.

I’d added 10 litres of oil in total and had plenty of oil registering on the dipstick both before spinning the engine over, and afterwards However, after leaving the car for 2 days, the oil level is only just registering on the dipstick – is this normal…if I add a further 3 litres will the engine be too full on start up ? I'm not expecting the oil cooler and lines to be filled until the car is up to temperature, although maybe the oil lines will back-fill a bit.


I have now found 2 slight oil weeps – one from the oil level sender gasket (replacement ordered from Matthew @ Typer911 on IB) and the other from the 22mm coupler on the oil line to the front oil cooler. I suspected this joint when I soldered it, so it was on my ‘to watch’ list. New solder coupler to be fitted, and if I’m still not happy, then a compression fitting will just have to do - ugly, but ......



The fresh air inlet was painted and refitted



The rubber wing was added to the rear spoiler. I did have to epoxy glue 3 or 4 bolts into the rubber, to replace broken or pulled out studs.




I also added the gasket added to the fuel tank


and re-fitted the tank and bolted down the electric aircon pump (again)


You may notice the absence of the rubber pipe that joins the tank to the filler. I had very cleverly lubricated my rubber pipe and slipped it onto the tank inlet. This ensured that I could fit the tank and then slide the coupling onto the filler pipe. Smart eh Well, not so smart when a) you slide the pipe so that its end is level with the tank inlet, and b) you take a couple of days to get the tank bolted in. What then comes to pass, is that a) the lubricant (washing up liquid) dries, and becomes an effective glue, and b) you've left nothing to grip to pull the coupling along. If you try water pump pliers, they help tighten the coupling onto the tank inlet and you have no option other than to cut it off and buy a replacement. Well, it was 40 years old and probably should have been replaced anyway. Maybe the smart thing was to cock up with the old pipe, not a new one


Enough of the rear interior was removed to give plenty of access for the glass men, and I got the (964) heated front screen down from the loft. Electrical connectors were added to the screen and the wiring in the car, although seeing how long they are now, maybe I should have shortened them a bit first. I’ll see how much I can pull into the froot and what will tuck down into the dash / screen gap.



Big news – the glass men arrived today
It took 2 hours to fit the new rubber, then add the wiring and the chrome trim to the screen. The glass fitting company insisted that I had 2 men to fit the screen, as everything was then at their risk. I expected Man no.2 (Pat) would be readying the front screen while the ‘old system’ expert, Paul, was working on the rear screen. Unfortunately, Man No.2, Pat, was an expert in modern, glue in screens, and was just needed when fitting the screens into the car, so it was rather expensive paying for him just to watch Paul work.


Anyway, rear screen all prepared and ready to be fitted



Rear screen fitted

What I also realise now, is that I should have restored & fitted rear quarter trims before the glass was fitted. Never mind, there’s enough flex in the rubber seal to slide in it if I use plenty of lubricant (calm down Phill).

Front screen fitted



Well, the final bill, including their travel/ call out cost, was just under £600 for both screens to be fitted. Seeing the grief Paul had, I think it was good value, as I would have smashed something or majorly got it wrong. He also did things in a slightly different order to what I had read – it is useful to have an experienced someone who first fit these screens when the cars were new.

To save money, I now realise that I should have taken the screen and seal to their workshop so that it could have been fitted beforehand. This way you’re not paying for the second man to watch the screen being prepared.


For those who want to do it themselves .....
Rubber seal (only use Porsche) on screen (no lubricant), just plenty of wrist action (sorry again Phill)
Drill hole through the seal for the wires
Add & connect the wires
Try not to break a tab off screen – this then takes a while to solder back together. Good job that I had spare connectors and a soldering iron.
Cut a small chunk out of the bead between the glass and wire channels next to terminal points, so that wire can pass across without distorting the seal or holding it away from properly seating on the glass
Add trim (swearing optional)
Run paracord around seal, with overlap in the middle of the base
Place prepared screen on car
Pass HRW wires through the rear parcel shelf, puling through as the screen is manoeuvered into place
Hook the bottom, middle of the seal over the lip on car and start pulling paracord
Use hook to help seal over lip as/where necessary
Use lots of WD40


It was satisfying when they mentioned the problems they encounter when someone has repaired the bottom corners of the front screen aperture. That's when I mentioned that I had replaced both lower corners on the car. I had kept the old screen and the Garage Bitch and I had previously test fitted it to check that my hole was the right size (Phill !).


I was then called to domestic chores, unfortunately involving not one, but two, garden centres - what a lucky chappy I am . So all I have done since the glass went in, is to attach the HRW wires in the engine compartment and refit the pipe from the engine bay blower fan


Now that the screens are fitted, I can finally colour sand the exterior without getting a whole mess over the interior.

[jb]

Wonderful
Another Targa is born

[911hillclimber]

What a wise move not to diy those screens.
I had one older gent to do mine (coupe) and it took him ages to contour the alum filler to the screen rubbers ( after I had spent ages getting them contoured....)
Fitting was quick there after, about 20 mins each.
He loved doing the car, far more of a challenge to get them right.
Leak free so nice.
Just one mistake by me, the rear view mirror pad is silver, a bright spot from the front of the car.

[deano]

Bloomin marvellous - glad you got the glass fitted OK! I'll ask you for their contact details in due course to do mine

[rhd racer]

Excellent result, looking together now

[PeterK]

Well ……. having had the rear screen fitted, as I mentioned, I now realise that the trims should have been installed first. Not sure whether they can be slipped under the seal, as although they are mainly held by self tappers, the leading part has 2 pins that go through holes I no longer have, adjacent to the targa bar. We’ll see when the Garage Bitch next comes to play. We have some cunning plans, but …..

So, what else has happened ?. I’ve got tyres on my new wheels, a nice set of PS4s



I’ve taped the DAB aerial onto the front screen.

The fitters suggested that I do this and use the car for a short while and check all is well with the screen. Once fitted, the aerial can’t be removed and re-installed, so a slight pause in proceedings here, and a bit of tape at each end of the aerial for now.



I turned the car around in the garage so that I could access the oil lines more easily. I had had a slight weep from where I had soldered the pipe back together after doing the thermostat repairs previously. By wriggling the oil line, I realised that the fracture in the solder was propagating, so I dropped the pipe, attacked it with my MAPP gas, and removed the fitting. Plan A was to replace the fitting with the same sort, one that needs solder added. Plan B was to use a pre-soldered fitting and fall-back plan was an ugly compression fitting. Realising the bending stresses on the pipe while clamped to the underside of the sill, I just went straight to the fall-back. I used the MAPP gas to heat and clean the pipe, then added the compression fitting. No leakage evidence since (so far)
.



The targa roof seals (the ones over the front and rear of the car) have been refitted. A slow job, with a bit of glueing, fit targa roof and get on with something else while the glue dries. Then remove targa roof, glue a bit more, refit roof, etc, etc until all is completed.


I decided to check fuel pressures. Having rigged up the gauges and being too lazy to fit a jumper wire, I just lifted the airflow plate and checked pressures. Well, first I had two major fuel leaks, one from the base of the fuel filter and the other from the accumulator. Good job I was checking now, rather than on start up.

Lifting the airflap of course causes fuel to flow into the engine. Not having my brain engaged , I wondered why I wasn’t initially getting the system pressures I expected. I did get full pressure, but it took a few goes. When the penny dropped that I was filling the bores with fuel, I had to remove spark plugs and spin the engine over. Having then petrol washed the engine bay , I dried up what I could and left the engine to evaporate any residual fuel overnight.

Next morning, and with a further spinning over of the engine (good oil pressure again – over 1bar on the starter), I refitted the spark plugs and it is ready to go


I’ve also tackling the door cards. I made further checks and a few tweeks to the window positioning first. Fitting the door card to the car, I was looking to make a mark for locating the tweeters. While running my hands over the vinyl, I realised that there were already holes in about the right position – I guess that this is a hang-over from manual winder cars.


I used a hole saw to make the appropriate sized holes, thankfully managing not to drill through the vinyl.


Vinyl was snipped


And tweeter holder added.


Followed by the tweeter




I refitted the door card and bits




This hides the true activity. I did fit the door card, added the power window switches, door pull, interior door lock and the top trim. Then I wired the tweeter and cross-over box. That’s when I remembered that I was fitting the speakers to the car door, not the door card and so everything had to come off again.

I then repeated the fitting and at the last point, the link that runs from the door handle to the internal mechanism fell off, so everything had to come off again.

Everything back on again. By now I needed a coffee, and so making a bracket for the leading edge of the door bins can wait until next time, as can fitting the other side. This Targa never had door bins, so all new mounting holes are required.

[rhd racer]

I recently moved a DAB aerial on our motorhome Peter, that I had fitted before realising that the overcab over-hang kept making the signal drop. It was fitted with those super strong 3m adhesive pads, supplied with it.

Anyhow, the reason for imparting this thrilling insight into my life outside Porsches is that I removed it by gentle use of a heat gun on the outside of the screen. A bit of pulling the aerial on the inside and it gave way with a bit of force. So if all goes wrong, you should be able to move and reposition.

Cheers
Wayne

[PeterK]

Thanks Wayne, useful to know all wouldn’t be lost

[PeterK]

Duplicate post deleted

[PeterK]

There has been a little distraction this week, but more on that later.

Firstly, a further play with the door cards and a quick ebay browse. I was missing the retaining metal surround / outer part of one power window switch. A second-hand one popped up on my ebay notifications (how do they know these things ???) for a mere £30. A bit more searching and I saw one for just over £25. A check on Matt’s Type911 site and new ones are about 6 +VAT. Good to check !. Obtained and fitted.

I was about to make some brackets for the front of my door bins and checked replacement prices on D911. They’re not that expensive, and even less at only £1.25+VAT from my OPC. At this point I also broke the little plastic cover piece for the door lock – the biro top piece that pokes up alongside the window. Only 2.56+VAT from my OPC, so a pair added to my order. Should be here the day after I return from my next sailing jaunt.



Other than that, and a few family things, all I have been up to is a quick re-jig of the garage. My work bench was under the sloping ceiling at the rear of the garage. Not really an issue until I stuck a lathe on it, although the pillar drill had to be moved to a table to be used, as it was too tall for the workbench. Sited perpendicular to the workbench, I had a double set of 300mm deep shelves, overflowing with assorted goodly cr4p.

So, a plan was hatched, some 600mm deep BigDug shelving acquired, and wait for the Garage Bitch to come a-visiting to help move the lathe. It was a good plan. Unfortunately, the Garage Bitch had an emergency call out for work, so …….

How does one move a lathe that nearly gave 3 of us hernias getting it onto the workbench in the first place. Empty the workbench and pile the assorted goodly cr4p out of the way. Jack up the workbench so that the engine hoist will fit underneath and lift.
In my best sea shanty impersonation, with a hooray and up she rises (then gently down)


Fill new shelving with as much of the assorted goodly cr4p that you can, build workbench in new location (which of course meant cutting clearance for the roof supports) and reverse the lathe swinging malarky



Shuffle and replace remaining assorted goodly cr4p on the workbench, etc


The freebie (thanks for the dumpster diving, GB) blue bins will go on the wall above the lathe in due course.


The good news is that I can now get to the lathe more easily. The less good news is that a) I don’t need to use the lathe at the moment, b) I can’t find anything and c) there’s still a fair amount of tidying still to do. But hey, it was a nice distraction.


I'm sailing tomorrow and Tuesday, have a day for chores on Wednesday, the Garage Bitch is due to come and drink coffee on Thursday, so there’s a few little chorelets to be attempted, but then it’s off sailing again (now that groups can stay overnight on the yachts, it’s not necessary to keep going back to base every night - yippee) with four days of visiting friends between courses. Probably won’t see the garage for almost 3 weeks - I’ll need therapy !

[The Garage Bitch]

See you Thursday massa

Let's hope this play can go ahead. Fortunately the International Rescue repair for my customer did the trick so should be able to make this one.

[PeterK]

So, where do I start ……

Normal progress news. Door bins are nearly fitted, just the rear brackets to fit.

The bins will need some love and attention, as they are a little distorted, but that will follow.

The better news – the garage Bitch came to play and we drank lots of coffee and ate bacon & egg rolls. In between the culinary efforts, we also test drilled the garage floor – 6” of concrete, so I can fit a 2-post lift.

We also fitted the rear spoiler and colour sanded the car.



Needs a further colour sand of the froot, as it has only had a quick polish, and I clearly still need to fit headlights, torsion covers and cill trim, oh, and I also need to rebuild the targe top, but getting very close.


Now, said GB had postponed twice due to pressure of work (emergency call outs, etc). Was this fortuitous, or did he know ……….





The afternoon before he came to play I got a phone call. A ‘part’ of my engine was from a batch and other parts from the same batch had been fitted to 2 other engines that I know of. One had lasted 600 miles and the other was wrecked by the time it had its 900 mile (post engine build) service.
On challenging them, both the supplier (agent) and the UK importer of said parts have both suggested that I do not try to start the engine.

Pending the outcome of current discussions (or what on first inspections seems like denial and dragging of feet by the UK importer), I’m stopped. Almost certainly the engine will have to come out and a complete top end rebuild of my rebuild is on the horizon. After 3 years of rebuilding the car, now being ready to drive it and then finding out that I can’t, is not best pleasing.

I’ll not specify the ‘part’, the supplier, UK importer or manufacturer for now. They are entitled to have their opportunity to do right by the 3 (at least) of us and I’ll then praise their customer service and responsiveness. Alternatively ……..

[jtparr]

Great to see it nearing the finish line Peter...

[The Garage Bitch]

If I had visited when originally scheduled your engine would have been fubar too.

You know I felt guilty at bailing at short notice but how lucky was that in hindsight?

We're going to have to remove the engine again regardless but you hopefully won't feel as bad than if it had been started and wrecked

Narrow escape mate