67S arriving tomorrow - can't wait - Recommission Thread.

[MikeB]

Looking very tidy, Robin

[hot66]

It is looking good

[redrobin911]

Thanks MikeB and others for kind words - helps keep me motivated.....also I know MikeB likes his bling, so do I and with door frames fitted and all brightwork finished this evening on all glass bar the front screen which is taking forever to polish, the car starts to look more like a car again. All brigthwork is orginal to the car just cleaned and refitted. The Durant mirror is also original in the second pic.

[redrobin911]

Another quick update - more polishing of the front windscreen to a point where we popped it in this evening. New seals, orginal alloy trim. Some wiring done, stripped the fuse box and check for corrosion, none to report so cleaned up and put it back in, I'll tend to wire ends later, but as these are tinned (solder tinned) and the solder looks very faded and will be compromising the connection - not sure if to strip back and re tin or leave wires bare? I'm not a fan of any solder in electrical connections as heat tends to destroy the solder over a period, neither am I a fan of strands of bare wires that could cause a short in the fuse box. I could crimp on a bullet connector but little room to do that.... Other wiring at the gauges progressing but needed to see some more "results" so put on the rear bumper trims, just to make me see some more progress - gotta mix it up.

[kvinyl]

Looking good, loving the progress reports

With respect to the cable ends, a correctly crimped ferrule may be a happy middle-ground? Not exactly in-period but useful if you want to eliminate bare strands from your terminations?

[Berny]

Looking nice Robin! on the wires I like the tinned ends just my two pence worth. Berny.

[redrobin911]

Looking nice Robin! on the wires I like the tinned ends just my two pence worth. Berny.

Thanks Berny - further reading on tinning auto wires reveals the middle ground and to tin the ends so they won't fray while leaving the "core" clean to clamp on - every day is a school day....

[redrobin911]

Bit of an update - most of the past few weeks has been taken up cleaning and restoring electrical connections - my word there are loads, pretty much all of them were green with corrosion and the rubber sheaths falling apart as soon as I touched them. So armed with some detoxit, small wire brush, heat shrink and a heat gun - off I went.

Had previously done the gauge connections, I then tackled the wiring in the pedalboard area and now happy with how it finished as seen below.

Then on to the connections in the luggage compartment - all poor as can be seen with the wiring to the wiper motor before, during and after pics.

Not nice




cleaning up well


finshed - all took 20mins, but the sheer amount of other connections around the car makes this tedious, but rewarding work.


Some other work progressed, rear handbrake shoes fitted, rear brake lines to the control arms and was going to finish the brakes but the discs I ordered were wrong and for a 69 car, correct ones arrive tomorrow so will be fitted soon.



With the interior coming on I found a few mins to fit the 67S correct rear veiw mirror and black/cream sunvisors.


And its a very long time since I took this pic at the start of this thread, but all gauges wired up and fitted.

[visualfx]

Nice job on the lower & upper dash Robin, very tidy

[MikeB]

Glad to see you’re serving your electrician’s apprenticeship, Robin, You’re looking like a candidate to wire up my Elan

[redrobin911]

Glad to see you’re serving your electrician’s apprenticeship, Robin, You’re looking like a candidate to wire up my Elan

My qualifications, way back in the day in City & Guilds 224 (electrical and electronic servicing) has stood me in good stead.....

[MikeB]

As long as you’re still at 1970’s rates, you’re on

[Darren65]

Yum

[jjeffries]

Nice work, careful and thorough conservation.

[304065]

Robin- looking good, you clearly have the patience for the meticulous cleaning it takes. Years ago I made the mistake of cleaning some wires with lacquer thinner--takes the tracer stripe right off of them! Now I use ZEP citrus degreaser (or the UK equivalent).

Remember that the 2,4 and later motors have a 30mm distributor bore, instead of the 27mm bore of the earlier cars. So swapping over the diz from the 2,7 to the earlier motor isn't possible.

You can tell you have an original Bosch 0 231 159 002 distributor by both the yellow nomenclature plate (can be faked these days) but also the presence of a large cylindrical flyweight which is visible on the underside of the advance mechanism. They are externally identical to the 001 and 006 distributors. While you have it out, look for the Bosch date code. . . it will be almost invisible, three TINY numbers, stamped at a weird angle into the body of the distributor, and easily obscured by grime or a previous owner's paint job. . . but it will be there. That is another tell to originality, at least the year.

Anyway, Pertronix specifies the 1866 ignitor for the 002 dizzy, and the 91866 if you want an Ignitor II. The ignitor II does variable dwell, which is an upgrade.

Re; the Pertronix coil, sounds like you have the garden variety "Ignitor" not the "Ignitor II" with variable dwell. So that means sticking to either the 1.5 or the 3.0 ohm primary resistance. Petronix recommends the 3.0 for four and six cylinder motors and the 1.5 for eight cylinders. Given that there is no longer any external primary resistance (the resistor box and the relay are bypassed electrically) you end up with four amps charging the coil, same as the stock setup. Give it a try.

If I were doing it from scratch I'd get the Ignitor II with dwell limiting and the Flamethrower II coil which has only 0.6 ohms primary resistance, which means it could theoretically charge with 20 amps. That will burn up the Ignitor, however, which is why its current-limiting feature is so important.

If you have any doubts send an email to the Petronix support address and they will fix you up.

Good luck!