Accelerator linkage question

[BD55]

I'm trying to reinstate the linkage as it should be and have come across a couple of problems... I don't have a peddle stop bolt. And I think the rod from the peddle to the lever is a carb one as it has LH and RH threads. So can anybody tell me the length of the bolt for the pedal stop and the correct length of the rod from the peddle to the lever on the tunnel.
Many thanks in advance.
Simon

[Kneeslider]

Hi Simon.

I don't think that either the length of the bolt for the pedal stop or the length of the rod that goes between the pedal and the operating arm under the foot board is too critical.

Because the operating arm under the foot board sits on its own stop (when everything else is properly adjusted), the position of the throttle pedal is entirely your own preference. Then you can just push the pedal down till you get full throttle (checked by making sure that the butterfly valves in the carbs are vertical) but gently so that you don't break the 'soft link' in the linkage, then set the pedal stop back by screwing any 6mm metric bolt you like in and out to get the stop to the right height.

This sounds really complicated, but in practice is easy enough. Especially if you study the diagrams from the 356 Registry forums.

[BD55]

That does make sense...I changed all the ball socket joints and carried out the adjustments as per Ab Tiedemann's article on the Registry and the workshop manual. I was just concerned that the rod had been changed for one from the carburettor end of things, but i guess they must be similar in length anyway. As it stands my pedal is around 1/2" below the brake pedal which is comfortable for me. Just need to add the pedal stop and i should be done.
Thank you very much for the reply, very helpful

[Kneeslider]

Hey, no problem!

My car was in a right mess as I bought it as an unfinished project, so the throttle linkage took a while to figure out, as nothing was right at the start, and it took some research, and quite a few iterations to get somewhere near correct.

Sounds as though the throttle pedal at about 1/2 in below the brake pedal is about right, that is similar to mine, and I find that toe and heel is fairly comfortable.

My pedal stop was missing too, so I just took a selection of bolts, and a nut to lock it into position, and tried different lengths till one was about right, and set it so that the pedal hit the stop just before the llinkage went tight.

Don't forget also that you can adjust the length of the brake pedal with the operating rod that screws into the clevice.

[POR68]

Kneeslider is right. Start at the pedal and get that set within reason. Then move back from there. Its all about the bell crank angles. The critical measurement as described in the workshop manual is the near vertical link between the rod from the bell crank on the transmission and the ball on the back of the rod that connects to the carb drop links. That near vertical link should be 50mm from the rear edge of the engine shroud (I used bit of wood dowel to check) - and is roughly 190mm from ball to ball centre. The drop links themselves should be about 170mm.

[BD55]

Thanks Merv
I think I'm almost there. One thing I'm unsure of when setting the 50mm, this is done with the linkage disconnected at the carbs and the crank under the car correct? So you have to pull the lever towards the fan housing manually then measure/set the 50mm by adjusting the vertical rod?

This is all part of trying to get my car running better, and it has made difference. The main problem I have is it cutting out when hot, when coming up to junction/ lights etc. But I'm eliminating problems one by one and enjoying working on the car.
Cheers
Simon

[Kneeslider]

The bell crank you are looking for is out of view behind the fan shroud as you look at the back of the car. It is labeled 1/7-15. That's why it is so tricky to set up. The best way is to make a 50mm length of dowel and use that to feel where the centre of the ball is compared to the vertical surface of the fan housing.



In the picture you need to adjust the length of the pull rod 3/1-32 above to set distance 1


Does that make sense?

Hopefully you have a carb synchrometer? If so, good. If not, get one. Then go through the settings in the following order.

Set the valves

Set the timing

Then play with the carb adjustments.

There is unfortunately no short cut to this process, but in the end, all will be well. It's a kind of ritual which is ultimately rewarding.

[BD55]

Thanks for that diagram, i think i'm there with the linkage, although i'm one LH threaded ball joint short as i had to use it on the pedal rod.
I've gone through the service etc and rebuilt the carbs, but i'm unhappy with the play in the throttle bodies and will address that over the winter
I still have the problem of the car cutting out when warm, it idles at around 900rpm but i can watch the revs slowly go down so i have to give it some gas to keep it going. Its not stopping me driving it though Malvern to Hereford today, great road and weather....
So i'm going to check:
Float levels
Fuel pump delivery
Also need to get a timing light as only static timing set.

[Winston Teague]

I have a timing light if you want to come over and try it, I'm not far away. W

[BD55]

Hi Winston, thank you that's a very kind offer, I need to sort a few other things out then i may be in touch, it would be good to have a second opinion on how its running.

[POR68]

Sorry I didn't get back but Kneeslider's diagram is good value. The 50mm measurement is done with the rod through the rear firewall connected and the even with the drop links connected (you will do them again last anyway). Adjust the vertical rod behind the shroud to get that 50mm - it should be around 190mm centre to centre. Seems like you have it sorted however. When you get your 'assistant' to floor the pedal are your getting WOT at the carbs?

[BD55]

Hi Merv...yes looks like i'm getting near full travel at the carbs, butterflies not quite vertical and car is getting better the more i use it. (its been sitting for a few years!)
Still have falling/erratic tickover when the car is warm which i'm putting down to play in the LH throttle body?? Or possibly distributor sticking.....