Thanks again Kev,great archive pictures, I followed your advice on the speedo cable routing today and got it how it should be.
The Gemo cable was just over £55 from Roger Bray. I checked it against the old one before fitting to make sure it was the correct length.
Only then did I notice the two grommets were on backwards???
I had to do a double take; but yes they were fitted backwards. What a bloomin struggle it was to get them off the cable. I opted for sliding them down to the gauge end where the securing nut was smaller. Even so it was a real battle stretching the large grommet with a 6mm hole over a 20mm nut!
Once off it was another battle in reverse to fit them back on the right way around.
It was also another Desert Sand nightmare day. Getting the old speedo cable out meant getting under the centre console. I took the seats out for more space and after finding where the console securing screws were I lifted out the two insert panels and found the whole inside of the console had about ¼” of fine sand inside it.
Another ½ hour hovering and I could lift the carpet to reveal the cable and the bent over securing tabs.

Seats out there was more sand in all the creases and gaps around the centre tunnel. The ridges in the vinyl were ½” deep in sand! More hovering up.
Anyways, after getting the cable out I could see the age related damage more clearly.

It really did need changing.
What a pig it is trying to hook the cable end out of the tunnel void and into the car on your own. I ended up bending a coat hanger in a U shape to fish it out. I also noted the route it takes over the steering UJ and found metal bend over tabs to hold it clear of the steering. Not obvious first of all but there for a good reason.
Next I set up the new clutch cable. After reading the Haynes manual and speaking with Kev, I was concerned about the instruction to extend the cable 10mm into the clevis as I thought it would foul the lever. Kev advised to cut it down before fitting as new cables are too long. So after cutting 10mm off the end I fitted it with 5mm into the Clevis. Adjusting the cable under the car I found to get the required ½-3/4” free play I pretty much used up all the cable adjustment; even with it cut down.
I reckon you need to cut at least 15mm off the pedal end of the cable to give you some adjustment over the years as the cable stretches.
With still time left this afternoon I fitted the two nylon rollers to the boot hinge. Again this was another wrestle with the spring bars to hold them down enough to slip on the Roller. I used a deep 10mm socket with a 8” extension bar, slipped over the end and levered down while holding the boot up. Scary at times but I just managed to get them on.
After a cuppa I then took all the wheels and discs off again to fit the disc backing plates.
Lastly I replaced the two new track rod ends.
All I need now is those blessed discs and bearings to turn up, so that I can get the callipers back on.








