Fuel Starvation

[leewiffen]

Hi Andrew

Well that seems well within my capabilities and as soon as I can get in the garage I'll give it a go.....watch this space

Lee

[leewiffen]

Update......
I cranked the engine and fuel is getting into the bowl
I removed the eight screws and the top plate to expose the float and it seems to be set very low...at least half an inch difference to the picture you posted Andrew
There is a screw at the back, I assume this is to adjust the float height?
Before replacing the needle valves should I adjust the screw?
How critical is the float height related to the working of the carb?
Also I have only done the drivers side ( LHD)
Lee

[AndrewSlater]

Hi Lee,

Your bowl level sounds pretty low.
The floats heights are quite sensitive to the proper running ( a couple of mms can make a difference ).
However a bigger difference shouldn't stop your car starting.

You could try adjusting the float height with the screw, but not quite sure you will get enough adjustment.

If you have a new needle valve you might as well change it whilst you are at this point.

Then you would need to check what the other carb is doing.
Its possible this one is dry and the valve stuck, preventing the car starting.

I would change both needle valves and then see if you can set the levels higher.

Good luck
Andrew

[leewiffen]

OK, so I have just removed both carbs and they were both fuelled so it appears the pump and link and floats are OK
However the bowls were filled with the dirtiest brown fuel imaginable
So chaps, I now intend to drain the tank and refill with clean fuel, change the fuel filter to a clear filter so I can see what's going through
Meanwhile I am going to send the carbs off to be restored
The originals are split shaft, however I have a pair of solid shafts that I bought from the USA for my 356 and was thinking of trying them whilst the split shafts are being restored
A couple of things....when I had the solid shafts on my 68 they were prone to dumping fuel down the cylinders on starting
I never got to the bottom of why they were doing this. It was suggested it was due to a vacuum downdraft sucking fuel down into the cylinders....any other ideas?
Secondly there is a set of plates under the split shaft carbs with a vacuum outlet as well as on the carbs themselves
The previous owner has utilised the vacuums from the bottom plates to go to the vacuum on the distributor
Whilst he has linked the others via a piece of pipe. Surely they should be blanked off rather than linked?
Is there anywhere I can get a reliable picture of the correct vacuum, distributor, carb set up for this 69 car?
Lee

[neilbardsley]

The previous owner has utilised the vacuums from the bottom plates to go to the vacuum on the distributor
Whilst he has linked the others via a piece of pipe. Surely they should be blanked off rather than linked?
Is there anywhere I can get a reliable picture of the correct vacuum, distributor, carb set up for this 69 car?
Lee

I think the vacuum timing was used for CA/US anti snog requirements? It appears the correct distributor is .60?

http://www.912bbs.org/vb/showthread.php ... istributor

However, I think you are best ignoring this and using a .22?