I'm just nearing the end of the body refurbishment on my 2.2E, and the time has come to make a decision regarding wax protection. For factory finish originality, I believe I'm right in saying I should go for a clear finish - does anyone have any recommendations ?
Thanks in advance,
Tim
www.fluidimages.co.uk
www.fluid-images.co.uk
RECOMMENDED WAX PROTECTION
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Roadrunner
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Nige
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Think Barry's article covers just about everything you need
http://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12954
http://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12954
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Mike Smith
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Barry`s article is Excellent and the only addition that I would make to it -
Is to consider using Tectyl- which we find to be excellent and in our opinion a better product than Waxoil
Tectyl was in use in the 50`s and although we do not claim to have been using it since then - we have used it for the last 25years
It is available in Aerosol Cans and in Bulk
Type 506 for Flat Areas (400 ml Can)
Type ML for Cavity Areas (600Ml Can) - this comes with a small flexible Tube
Naturally we sell it
Mike at PR
Is to consider using Tectyl- which we find to be excellent and in our opinion a better product than Waxoil
Tectyl was in use in the 50`s and although we do not claim to have been using it since then - we have used it for the last 25years
It is available in Aerosol Cans and in Bulk
Type 506 for Flat Areas (400 ml Can)
Type ML for Cavity Areas (600Ml Can) - this comes with a small flexible Tube
Naturally we sell it
Mike at PR
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Roadrunner
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Nige
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I'd use clear, so any painted areas remain in colour and you can also what is happening below the wax finish. Although I think you are getting mixed up abit with the black tar like finishes, which are generally good at hiding the rot rather than preventing it. As Mike says really, also Dinitrol is highly regarded.
checkout
http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp? ... t=Dinitrol
checkout
http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp? ... t=Dinitrol
Mike, how much for the Tectyl in aerosols? pm me if you preferUUL442 wrote:Barry`s article is Excellent and the only addition that I would make to it -
Is to consider using Tectyl- which we find to be excellent and in our opinion a better product than Waxoil
Tectyl was in use in the 50`s and although we do not claim to have been using it since then - we have used it for the last 25years
It is available in Aerosol Cans and in Bulk
Type 506 for Flat Areas (400 ml Can)
Type ML for Cavity Areas (600Ml Can) - this comes with a small flexible Tube
Naturally we sell it
Mike at PR
James
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1993 964 C2
2010 987 Spyder
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Its not how fast you go, but how you go fast
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Barry
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Mike, funnily enough I was making enquiries recently as to what would be a 'higher grade' than Waxoyl.
I'd heard of Tectyl a while ago, but couldn't remember it's name.
BTW, I'm hoping to re-do the cavity waxing article in two months or so. New plan is to show each section that needs doing on a very, very bare shell. Hopefully this will illustrate where the wax needs to be placed, and why. The shell will be stripped back far enough to see inside most of the cavities, and hopefully will be of some interest to any would-be cavity wax'ers
.
I'd heard of Tectyl a while ago, but couldn't remember it's name.
BTW, I'm hoping to re-do the cavity waxing article in two months or so. New plan is to show each section that needs doing on a very, very bare shell. Hopefully this will illustrate where the wax needs to be placed, and why. The shell will be stripped back far enough to see inside most of the cavities, and hopefully will be of some interest to any would-be cavity wax'ers
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Paul64
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I have a place on hold at Rustmaster (which I will probably confirm this week) to apply protection to my car.
I had a chat with the guys there and they suggested that Waxoyl was best for the cavities however, for the under wing sections, a clear product from Dinitrol would perhaps be better to keep the paint colour visible - as long as there's not too much in the way of use in bad weather; it's not as resilient and would need regular re-application.
The Waxoyl underbody product is more opaque and that would disguise the colour.
Paul
I had a chat with the guys there and they suggested that Waxoyl was best for the cavities however, for the under wing sections, a clear product from Dinitrol would perhaps be better to keep the paint colour visible - as long as there's not too much in the way of use in bad weather; it's not as resilient and would need regular re-application.
The Waxoyl underbody product is more opaque and that would disguise the colour.
Paul
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1992 MB 500E (It's a Porsche!!)
2007 Smart Fortwo CDI
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Barry
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Awww, shucks 
.Re-reading it, there's plenty to revise, both to make the reasoning behind each part clearer, and to improve the process a bit as well.
All being well, that particular shell will be here in 4 weeks or so, and then I can get going ....
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Waxoyling
I have found that using the Clarke wax injection gun and lance (sold by Machine Mart ) together with waxoyl works well for cavities and large underside areas, the gun and lance are big enough to take unheated but well stirred Waxoyl.
For clear top up and small maintenance jobs I use Bodyline cavity wax aerosol, it is relatively cheap and it is available from all Partco branches. The lance is only 8mm diameter needing tiny access holes , the liquid itself is quite thin, so gives a fine spray when used without the lance.
For clear top up and small maintenance jobs I use Bodyline cavity wax aerosol, it is relatively cheap and it is available from all Partco branches. The lance is only 8mm diameter needing tiny access holes , the liquid itself is quite thin, so gives a fine spray when used without the lance.